Rear Camera Replacement, You can't see your toad without one.
Posted 05-31-2024 at 05:02 PM by HiBanky
Why the upgrade:
In an earlier blog I mentioned I had pierced the rear-view video cable with one or more pin nails I used to hold up some strips on the ceiling of my coach. (See blog "Sagging Headliner") Sadly, the camera and monitor are still working fine but the nail happened to sever the shielded video transmission line. It would be completely impractical to route a new cable through the ceiling and the idea of routing one under the coach was unappealing. So, after a considerable amount of research and testing, I concluded that the best and least painful solution was to replace the whole setup with a new wireless system.
Which options:
There are dozens of options available including hard wired, solar/ battery powered, wireless but with hard wired 12v to the camera not to mention a myriad of monitor options. I didn't like having to manually turn on and off the camera on a battery/solar powered model, so I chose to keep it simple with a wireless signal and hard wired 12v system. I kept the monitor options to a minimum as well. The Android Auto feature looked appealing, but I feared it would become a distraction while driving.
Out with the old:
With the new system in hand, the old camera removed, and old Sony monitor out of the dash, the project begins. Removal of the old system is straight forward. Uncover the back of the dash, unplug some connectors and take out some screws. Same for the camera.
In with the new Monitor:
The monitor I chose came with a bracket intended for mounting on the top of the dash. I preferred to mount it in the hole left by the old monitor. This was accomplished by adding a 2-inch piece of angle aluminum to the left side of the new bracket and a ¼ inch shim on the right. 4 self-tapping screws fastened it to the existing bracket. Ensuring the new monitor is no more than 1/8 inch from the bottom of the dash opening will allow for the antenna to clear the top of the dash cover. You can attach the old connector to the new barrel plug with solder or connectors. This way the monitor is on whenever the ignition is on or ACC. If a reverse wire is present you can terminate it. I cut out a clear Plexi-glass bezel and pained the back black to cover the rest of the opening.
In with the new Camera:
A template will make this step go much better so take the time to make one. Attach the template to the old cover location with the original screws and transfer the camera mount holes with a 1/8 drill. Remove the template and screw the camera mount to the coach. Then attach the camera to the mount. Adjust the camera until it fits the cover and tighten the screws. Remove the cover and attach the antenna to the camera. With the cover set to the side of the camera, eyeball the location of antenna and mark it on the top. Do the same with the cover below the camera. Drill a 3/8 hole in the cover where the marks intersect. Remove the top center running light and fish the wires up through the hole . Attach them to the respective power and ground wires of the light. The camera will only come on with the running lights. Attach the cover and the center running light.
I was very pleased with the outcome but maybe I'm just not that picky.
Note: If you are looking for a Sony model VCB-MHD1 monitor and a model VCB-MH3 camera, leave a comment.
In an earlier blog I mentioned I had pierced the rear-view video cable with one or more pin nails I used to hold up some strips on the ceiling of my coach. (See blog "Sagging Headliner") Sadly, the camera and monitor are still working fine but the nail happened to sever the shielded video transmission line. It would be completely impractical to route a new cable through the ceiling and the idea of routing one under the coach was unappealing. So, after a considerable amount of research and testing, I concluded that the best and least painful solution was to replace the whole setup with a new wireless system.
Which options:
There are dozens of options available including hard wired, solar/ battery powered, wireless but with hard wired 12v to the camera not to mention a myriad of monitor options. I didn't like having to manually turn on and off the camera on a battery/solar powered model, so I chose to keep it simple with a wireless signal and hard wired 12v system. I kept the monitor options to a minimum as well. The Android Auto feature looked appealing, but I feared it would become a distraction while driving.
Out with the old:
With the new system in hand, the old camera removed, and old Sony monitor out of the dash, the project begins. Removal of the old system is straight forward. Uncover the back of the dash, unplug some connectors and take out some screws. Same for the camera.
In with the new Monitor:
The monitor I chose came with a bracket intended for mounting on the top of the dash. I preferred to mount it in the hole left by the old monitor. This was accomplished by adding a 2-inch piece of angle aluminum to the left side of the new bracket and a ¼ inch shim on the right. 4 self-tapping screws fastened it to the existing bracket. Ensuring the new monitor is no more than 1/8 inch from the bottom of the dash opening will allow for the antenna to clear the top of the dash cover. You can attach the old connector to the new barrel plug with solder or connectors. This way the monitor is on whenever the ignition is on or ACC. If a reverse wire is present you can terminate it. I cut out a clear Plexi-glass bezel and pained the back black to cover the rest of the opening.
In with the new Camera:
A template will make this step go much better so take the time to make one. Attach the template to the old cover location with the original screws and transfer the camera mount holes with a 1/8 drill. Remove the template and screw the camera mount to the coach. Then attach the camera to the mount. Adjust the camera until it fits the cover and tighten the screws. Remove the cover and attach the antenna to the camera. With the cover set to the side of the camera, eyeball the location of antenna and mark it on the top. Do the same with the cover below the camera. Drill a 3/8 hole in the cover where the marks intersect. Remove the top center running light and fish the wires up through the hole . Attach them to the respective power and ground wires of the light. The camera will only come on with the running lights. Attach the cover and the center running light.
I was very pleased with the outcome but maybe I'm just not that picky.
Note: If you are looking for a Sony model VCB-MHD1 monitor and a model VCB-MH3 camera, leave a comment.
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