flat tow f 150 how to

[46490]

What equipment is recommended.

[skigramp]

1. Look in your owner's manual of the F-150 to learn what needs to be done to your particular year (fuses pulled, adaptor installed, etc) ... it will generally be under the heading "recreational towing"
2. Make sure that the F-150 does not exceed the combined weight of the motorhome or the weight limit of the hitch on the motorhome.
3. Install a baseplate on the truck
4. Install lights for towing
5. Install an auxiliary braking system
6. Purchase a tow bar that stays with your motorhome that is heavy duty enough to tow your F-150

[46490]

Any recommendations for base plates and tow bars? Is there a braking system that works without putting something attached to the brake pedal maybe something that electrical controls the brakes when the motor home's brakes are applied. Is there a hydraulic hitch that would work?

[damdannyboy]

First is your f150 towable ? I have a blue ox base plate and tow bar and a SMI braking system on my f150.

damdannyboy

[46490]

Yes its tow able can you explain the braking sys. Thanks

[dnystrom]

This is one option for brakes that do not attach to the brake pedal.
M & G Engineering - Car Braking Systems: Home Page

[Mich F]

Have you checked with Store : Remco or somewhere else to see if your particular F150 is towable.
I don't know how much your loaded RV weighs, but it looks like, there is only a 3,590# difference, between the GVWR and GCWR for the 34B, less than what an F150 weighs.

[damdannyboy]

The SMI stay in play, is an older system, they have updated it along the way. You can get more info on their web sight, I would recommend it.

damdannyboy

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by 46490

Yes its tow able can you explain the braking sys. Thanks

46490,
You state "yes it's towable". May I ask what YEAR the F-150 is? I'm assuming that if you're DEAD SURE it's towable, than it's a '12 or newer since the '11 and older versions are NOT TOWABLE, AT ALL. If you're looking for a non-invasive braking system, if you have a diesel coach, I'd recommend the M & G Braking system. I just installed that system on our toad, an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 and, on our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT.

It was a breeze to install it on the coach. You cut one air line, at a specific point, install a "Tee" and, run the new air line to the rear of the coach and mount the quick release air fitting. There is no need to run and hide 'cause you're messing around with air brake lines. There is/are very specific instructions on how and where to cut, for various chassis mfgrs.

As for the install on/in the toad, pretty simple and straight forward. Remove the nuts holding on the master cylinder to the power brake unit, move the master cylinder forward and temp hold it in that position. Install the M & G Unit, after making required adjustments to actuating rod. Re-install the master cylinder onto the M & G unit after making required adjustments to the rod for the master cylinder. Tighten all nuts. DONE!

Now, all that's needed to link the coach and toad together for towing is the provided (as an option when purchasing the unit) coiled air line. There are no adjustments, no calibrations, no electrical hookups, nothing. You simply hook up that air line and you're done. It is a completely proportional braking system. In that, the more you apply the brakes on the coach, the more the toads are applied.

And, what many of us with diesels like, is the fact that the use of the exhaust brake or, compression brake (aka "Jake Brake") will not activate the M & G Braking unit. Another plus for the unit is, being placed where it is, it does NOT ACTIVATE THE TOADS BRAKE LIGHTS because it's not pushing on the toads brake pedal. This helps immensely when setting up the toad for lighting.
Scott


Below are a couple of pics of the M & G unit. It's quite an ingenious little unit and, works outstandingly well. The last picture shows the TEE I installed at the rear brake application line.

[Nomad Mike]

Originally Posted by Mich F

Have you checked with Store : Remco or somewhere else to see if your particular F150 is towable.
I don't know how much your loaded RV weighs, but it looks like, there is only a 3,590# difference, between the GVWR and GCWR for the 34B, less than what an F150 weighs.

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

46490,
You state "yes it's towable". May I ask what YEAR the F-150 is? I'm assuming that if you're DEAD SURE it's towable, than it's a '12 or newer since the '11 and older versions are NOT TOWABLE, AT ALL. If you're looking for a non-invasive braking system, if you have a diesel coach, I'd recommend the M & G Braking system. I just installed that system on our toad, an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4 and, on our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT.

What is the weight of your F-150? The tow capacity of the 34B is not as great as some of the other Meridian's/Journey's that have 10k lbs. Unless the specs have changed the difference between your GVWR and GCWR are only 3,590 lbs - that's too little tow capacity for a large truck. A quick search of the F150 weights in 2014 is 4,685 to 6,113 lbs.

I'm no expert on this by any means. Maybe your 34B specs changed and came with an Allison 3000 instead of 2500? Or maybe if you keep your loaded weight down you can exceed the 3590# by that amount? I doubt that your suppose to do that, but others with more knowledge will chime in.

[46490]

I have a 10k hitch 2013 f150 fx4 5400#. 360hp 2500 Trans 800# torque. That is from the cummins
Dealer who did the hp upgrade from 340 to 360 and 660 to 800.

[dnystrom]

That ottta do it. 10,000 bar (Road master All Terrian Bar) Road Master Riser, Brakes and after spending 3000.00 you will have the truck behind the coach happy. Brakes are a must on this application. I tow a 89 F250 4x4 short distances with a ATV in the box and it probley weighs 7200# and no problems. BRAKES are a MUST! Short distance is 200 miles.

[ChasA]

46490,
I think if you check the specs of the Allison 2500, it says max hp 340, max torque 660. You may be risking your transmission. I asked my local Cummins shop and that's what they told me. I found the specs on Allison website and confirmed it.

[46490]

All trans and motors have a built in safety factor - my cummins dealer said 360 was as far as I could push it and retrain the warranty. They did say the 2500 and 3000 trans will handle alot more hp and tq than advertised.

[46490]

Just an update - I contacted Winnebago service rep - my coach has a dry weight of 23,934#, gvw of 29410# and a max 33K#. The curb weight of my F 150 is 5687#. I also talked to Allison and Freight liner and was told by Allison 33K is correct and the Freight Liner rep stated that with a 10K hitch you can tow 10K, Winnebago rep said the same. I think with fuel, pax, and water I would be @ roughly 26K# and with the truck @ 6K# I would be under the max weight by 1K#. I hope I am correct in my numbers. Please feel free to offer comments an d advice. Thanks ahead of time!

[WRENCH18]

Just to put my two cents in,first my background, i am a ase master tech and have 30 years experience servicing all aspects of auto med and heavy truck repair. Ok consider this,say you are towing at your max limits or very close.You will be pushing your rig to its max abilities all of the time.This in my experiences is very hard on the transmission,i built them for many years.This will cause greater wear and also you will have to basically do maintenance on the severe duty schedule. Have to do maint more often ie service trans ect.I also would recommend a trans temp gauge and dont let it run past 250 deg for extended periods.Sounds to me you will be pushing the rig severly,i could be wrong but i try to stay at 75% of any vehicles ability for extended periods. Occaisionally 100% is acceptable but for me not 100% continuously. JMHO! Hope i didnt confuse you,just trying to weigh in.