Flat Towing

[Chucksterfxw]

I'm between flat towing and Dolly towing. My question on flat towing is when setting up braking for the car there is a cable from the bars, through the fire wall to the brake petal. Without the car running to enable power brakes how does this efficiently stop the car or is there another system? Ever try stopping your car when not running and stepping on the brakes? The other question is does the dolly have brakes of it's own and is this the least expensive way to go? Ready to start traveling and this is the last step but important. Thanks Chuck:

[Skip426]

First question? I the vehicle you plan to tow , towable 4 down?

Store : Remco

There are a half dozen different toad braking systems on the market , with different set ups for power brakes and break away.
One Roadmaster set up uses a mini air compressor in the toad system, and operates the brakes with the toads vacuum assist drained , the break away is electrically controlled, with only a switch attached to the coach with a light coiled cable.
I can't comment on dolly use, as I've only towed 4 down.

[BFlinn181]

Some dollys have brakes, others do not. If I were looking to purchase a dolly, I'd look for hydraulic disk brake equipped ones. Electric brakes require a controller on the RV dashboard, and drum brakes need regular adjustment.

Most every Toad brake system makes allowance for the lack of brake boost with engine off(dead pedal). Those systems using a cable, like the Ready Brake uses a lever on the receiver to pull a cable. It has enough mechanical advantage to apply brakes even with no vacuum boost.

All braking systems require some installation, especially for break-away braking. Some are either to transfer from one car to another. Explore all options before purchasing a system. Expect to pay ~$800-1200 for the parts, plus installation if you can't do it yourself.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Chucksterfxw

I'm between flat towing and Dolly towing. My question on flat towing is when setting up braking for the car there is a cable from the bars, through the fire wall to the brake petal. Without the car running to enable power brakes how does this efficiently stop the car or is there another system? Ever try stopping your car when not running and stepping on the brakes? The other question is does the dolly have brakes of it's own and is this the least expensive way to go? Ready to start traveling and this is the last step but important. Thanks Chuck:

Chuck, after years of dolly towing I can tell you that it takes the fun out of setting up or packing up in the rain, if you think it is bad now. Most tow dollies have breaks as required by most states. These can be surge or electric. I traded my 10 year old Sion xA for a 2014 Honda CR-V just to get away from the tow dolly headaches.

Let me get a little deeper into your question. With a qualified flat tow vehicle, not all are, you have many options for auxiliary breaks. All of these use the service brake of the vehicle but do it with different mechanics. BrakeBuddy - Braking systems for motorhomes towing a vehicle is one example of removable breaking control. A devise mounts between the drivers seat and the break peddle. It operates when your coach service break is depressed. The one I use, in my profile, is the SMI Air Force One. It is permanently installed. A small cylinder attached between the fire wall and break peddle of the CR-V is activated when I step on the coach breaks.

I suggest that you do your own leg work and see what fits your needs. When you become brand savvy then you can ask questions of a more specific nature. Happy hunting.

Rick Y

[ranchdog]

I only towed with a dolly once and would not consider doing it again. Dolly or flat both are expensive to set up. I previously towed a Ford Escape flat with a Brake Buddy. Would never do that again because you have a bulky piece of equipment to take out of the towed vehicle every time you want to use it and the same piece of equipment to put back into the towed vehicle when you want to tow it. I now tow a 2003 Jeep Wrangler flat with an InvisiBrake and I love it. Once it is installed in the towed vehicle you just hook up and go or unhook and go. You don't have to do anything with the InvisiBrake except run with your motorhome parking lights on to charge the battery of the towed vehicle and it works very well. Any way you go will be expensive but it is a one time thing unless you switch towed vehicles. When I towed the Escape it was a 2010 and it had limitations of 65 mph and 400 miles before you had to stop and run the Escape to cool the transmission. Hated that too! Jeeps and many other cars have no limitations on speed or distance and the InvisiBrake doesn't require any action on your part once it is installed in the vehicle. Motorhome magazine has published a 2017 Dinghy towing guide which can give you a lot or information. For all of you contributors motor vehicles have brakes for stopping not breaks. When they have breaks you have to have the repaired.

[youracman]

You might want to Google up the RVi2 toad braking system and look at their video(s).......just to know what's out there. Like BFlinn says, vacuum assist is not req'd. Matter of fact the RVi systems have you cycle the system 3 times when you hook it up to dump all of the toad's (stored) vacuum boost. When you final-test the system before gaining full speed (with a button on the dash remote) you can instantly feel deceleration of the motorhome from the application of the toad brakes.

The RVi system is wireless, but as mentioned you need to hook up a cable- operated switch (on your toad) to be physically attached (via an aircraft-type cable) from the toad to the motorhome. I also connected the existing 12v "charging line" from the motorhome plug/cable to the toad, to keep the battery charged while I drive (replaces battery power used by the RVi system.) Pretty simple stuff, really.

The RVi system takes about 5 min to hook up before you take off; the non-portable systems hook up faster, I believe + no portable "box" and remote to keep track of. No fun keeping track of extra gadgets/stuff, right?

Not for everyone, for sure. Mine has worked flawlessly for about 3000 miles....so far so good.

[SuperGewl]

OP one of the first things you need to know is, whether or not your car can be Flat towed, Dolly Towed or must be trailer towed. The other thing is what is the towing capability of your MH in the first place.
If it is a gasser then 5klbs max 99% of the time. Some of the much older ones I'm not sure of.
As far as DP's you have to be careful because some may have a 10klbs hitch but still only be able to tow 5klbs.
As far as your car/truck being able to flat tow well that is different. Too many variables to list. Read the Owners manual for your car/truck and check the actual weight of it.
Then you get into the actual setup, ie Base Plate and Tow bar and auxiliary braking system and lights on the Toad.

Give us more info on your MH and the car/truck that you think you are going to tow and we can better help you answer that question.

[smlranger]

Dolly, been there, done that. Unless you want to fool with loading a car on a dolly in the rain, periodically tightening wheel straps, having to move/store the dolly at some RV sites, suggest you plan to tow four down. As noted, you need to have a vehicle than can be flat towed. You will need to install a base plate on the vehicle and get a good tow bar. There are many braking systems. IMO, avoid any of the 'brake-in-a-box' gizmo's that you have to move in and out of the vehicle and place between the seat and brake pedal. Had one of those and could not wait to get rid of it.

For coaches with air brakes, a truly proportional system like the SMI Air Force One is a great system. M&G makes a similar system that is very popular. Many folks speak highly of the newest version of the Ready Brake system that uses a simple mechanical system. None of this stuff is cheap but nothing related to a motorhome is cheap.

[Dale & Mark Bruss]

One things I have noticed that is seldom if ever discussed in the flat versus dolly towing discussion.

When properly setup for flat towing, the auxiliary brake unit for the toad, applies all four brakes when stopping.

The dolly brakes, which are smaller because of the smaller wheels used, are only two. That is a lot less stopping power.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by Dale & Mark Bruss

One things I have noticed that is seldom if ever discussed in the flat versus dolly towing discussion.

When properly setup for flat towing, the auxiliary brake unit for the toad, applies all four brakes when stopping.

The dolly brakes, which are smaller because of the smaller wheels used, are only two. That is a lot less stopping power.

While having braking effort on all 4 wheels does increase stability when braking, fact is front brakes provide up to 75% of braking force when stopping. Having braking on only the dolly axle can provide quite a bit of stopping power since the weight of the front half of the car is centered over the dolly axle, giving it added traction between the tire and road.

The advantage of braking effort between towing 4 down and a dolly isn't a strong argument for choosing 4 down over a dolly.

The fact that cost of a dolly is almost equal to the components needed for 4 down towing is offset by the fact that setting up a vehicle for 4 down limits you to that one vehicle, while a dolly allows towing of any vehicle that can be towed on a dolly.

I've done both types of towing. I do like 4 down for the advantages of not having to load, chain and strap down on the car. I dislike the fact that the money and time invested in base plate and lights wiring isn't transferable to next vehicle.

[SuperGewl]

Another thing to take into account is that when traveling you can't take a loaded dolly onto the Turn Pikes so be prepared to either unload it and have the DW drive it.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by SuperGewl

Another thing to take into account is that when traveling you can't take a loaded dolly onto the Turn Pikes so be prepared to either unload it and have the DW drive it.

Which "Turn Pikes" prohibit RVs towing a vehicle on a tow dolly? The regulations for 'dollys' refer to trucks pulling two trailers with a dolly between the trailers. The Pennsylvania Turnpike allows them, New York Thruway does too. Only prohibition would be the excessive cost of the PA TP of an RV with a dolly or toad!

[SuperGewl]

It used to be that the NJP would not allow Dolly Towed car on the roadway. Thee was also some place out West that stated the same.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by SuperGewl

It used to be that the NJP would not allow Dolly Towed car on the roadway. Thee was also some place out West that stated the same.

Do you mean the New Jersey Turnpike or the Garden State Parkway? The GSP prohibits RVs and trailers over 62' total length, no other restrictions on non-commercial vehicles. Neither the GSP or NJ TP ban RVs with vehicle on a tow dolly. Only mention in regulations is they must be secured with chains and proper lighting.

[SuperGewl]

New Jersey Turn Pike, they must have changed their ways since the last time I went thru there.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by smlranger

Dolly, been there, done that. Unless you want to fool with loading a car on a dolly in the rain, periodically tightening wheel straps, having to move/store the dolly at some RV sites, suggest you plan to tow four down. As noted, you need to have a vehicle than can be flat towed. You will need to install a base plate on the vehicle and get a good tow bar. There are many braking systems. IMO, avoid any of the 'brake-in-a-box' gizmo's that you have to move in and out of the vehicle and place between the seat and brake pedal. Had one of those and could not wait to get rid of it.

For coaches with air brakes, a truly proportional system like the SMI Air Force One is a great system. M&G makes a similar system that is very popular. Many folks speak highly of the newest version of the Ready Brake system that uses a simple mechanical system. None of this stuff is cheap but nothing related to a motorhome is cheap.

SMI has a breaking system for non-air brake rigs also.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Do you mean the New Jersey Turnpike or the Garden State Parkway? The GSP prohibits RVs and trailers over 62' total length, no other restrictions on non-commercial vehicles. Neither the GSP or NJ TP ban RVs with vehicle on a tow dolly. Only mention in regulations is they must be secured with chains and proper lighting.

You have a good point BFlinn. As I recall, you can't go on any "Parkway" road with most RVs in the North East. Passenger cars only. My GPS tried to get me onto one in NY. Totally not a good idea, even if only a wrong turn. You could end up with a open sun roof. And a hefty fine to boot.

Back to the OP dolly question. As you can see, unless you enjoy mud reselling, eating nails and foraging for every meal when camping, you have found a bunch of experienced RVers who don't recommend this idea. Tow dollies do have a purpose and U-hall rents them all the time to folks with that occasional need. It is true that there is a group of hardy RVers that have no problem using one. But, as you are just getting into this life style, save yourself the hassle of the experience.

I think it has been mentioned earlier in this thread. Many cars and trucks can be towed 4 down, but many more can't be. This includes some standard transmissions. Some tows can be modified for towing. Others, like my CR-V are ready to go. Another note here. With the model year 2015 and on the CR-V can no-longer be towed. It must be put on a trailer.

[affreeman]

My car, a Ford Edge, could be set up to tow four down, and I thought for quite a long time about whether I wanted to do that or not. Ultimately I decided to tow on a dolly.

I watched a couple of videos of what's involved in installing a baseplate on the Edge. The front end gets hacked up quite a bit. There's no way that isn't going to impact the value of the car when it comes time to sell. "What are those holes in the front grill from?" "You mean you towed the car around behind your motorhome for thousands of miles?" "Yeah thanks, I don't think I'm interested."

And I hate the idea of spending the money to set up the Edge for towing, then something happens to it (an accident perhaps) and I have to replace the car and make that same investment again in the new car.

Driving the car up onto the dolly and strapping it down just isn't that big of a deal. And we have the flexibility of taking my wife's car if there's ever a reason to. And when it comes time to trade cars I have a much wider choice or cars that can be dolly towed than I do of cars that can be flat towed.

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

You have a good point BFlinn. As I recall, you can't go on any "Parkway" road with most RVs in the North East. Passenger cars only. My GPS tried to get me onto one in NY. Totally not a good idea, even if only a wrong turn. You could end up with a open sun roof. And a hefty fine to boot.

The Garden State 'Parkway' is a toll road by another name. In NYC, Philadelphia, and many other cities a parkway is (or was) a divided roadway with a grass and tree planted center median that prohibits large vehicles.


I don't advocate 4 down over dolly towing, to each his own. I set up a car for 4 down towing, my 2000 VW diesel Beetle with manual transmission. Step one was remove/replace the front clip to mount the base plate, not a job out of range for this shade tree mechanic. That Beetle has followed me from Oregon to Maine and in between many miles. I've also towed vehicles on a dolly, not a lot more effort than 4 down towing.

Not sure why you "resell(SIC) mud or eat nails", and foraging even firewood close in to most campgrounds is prohibited, but it has little to do with dolly or 4 down towing. The steps in loading(connecting) and unloading(disconnecting) are different, but about equal efforts in both towing methods. Neither towing method can just be ignored during a day's travel. In each case I always do a walk around at every stop, checking wires, cables, chains, etc. Things that need attention are adjusted.

[dix39]

I just thought I'd add another opinion in favor of 4 down towing. We have both a dolly, and a Tracker set up for 4 down towing.

The dolly has been used primarily to retrieve disabled vehicles that belong to family and friends.

The Tracker, and before that a Samurai, have been used 4 down for about the last 15 years for our annual OR to WV, and places in between, trips. I also use it 4 down for our local hunting, fishing, and exploring trips.

Everyone has their own reasons for the way they tow, and for me a dolly just adds another layer of complexity. This applies not only while on the road, but to storage and maintenance.

That being said, if I had a vehicle that could only be towed on a dolly I would use one.

Just my 2c.

Steve