37 b bathroom door modifications

bsmith8 · 01-30-2005, 02:27 PM

The 37B is a great floor plan but from the beginning I thought that Winnie had screwed up and put the bathroom doors in wrong. Someone else made mention of it several months ago too. From the factory the bedroom and toilet room doors open into the bath. No matter where you were going the doors always seemed to be in the way. A few months ago I flipped the toilet room door over and now it opens forward. That was easy, it took about an hour and it improved thing significantly.
We were in the motor home for 3 weeks in January and I kept looking at the bedroom door. If it was open, it always blocked the sink and the medicine cabinet.
Today I pulled the door and frame out reversed it. Now it opens into the bedroom and is totally out of the way when open. When I first looked at doing this I thought that the door would

bsmith8 · 01-30-2005, 02:27 PM

The 37B is a great floor plan but from the beginning I thought that Winnie had screwed up and put the bathroom doors in wrong. Someone else made mention of it several months ago too. From the factory the bedroom and toilet room doors open into the bath. No matter where you were going the doors always seemed to be in the way. A few months ago I flipped the toilet room door over and now it opens forward. That was easy, it took about an hour and it improved thing significantly.
We were in the motor home for 3 weeks in January and I kept looking at the bedroom door. If it was open, it always blocked the sink and the medicine cabinet.
Today I pulled the door and frame out reversed it. Now it opens into the bedroom and is totally out of the way when open. When I first looked at doing this I thought that the door would

bsmith8 · 01-30-2005, 02:36 PM

(sorry, I hit the post button before I was finished)

I thought that the door would hit the bed but it clears by an inch. The biggest job will be moving the light switch which is behind the door. I have already run the wire to the other side of the door under the door frame and I will order a new light switch tomorrow. If anyone with a 37b with the same thought of doing this I will be glad to send pictures. My wife is thrilled with the change.
Bill

DonavonP · 01-30-2005, 04:34 PM

We'd like to see those pics Bill. Is there a way for you to post them here or should I send my email address? I'm sure there are other people who would appreciate seeing your work.

Amy and Don

bsmith8 · 01-30-2005, 06:49 PM

Well I posted pictures. It was the first time that I've done that. I did not realize that they would be posted this way. Oh well here they are.
Bill

Dave from MN · 01-30-2005, 07:31 PM

Great idea! I have looked at doing that but I wasn't sure it would clear the bed. Does the light switch have to be moved? Or is it just hard to get at behind thhe door? Where are you moving it to? What do you do to remove the door frame? Thanks Dave

DonavonP · 01-31-2005, 06:13 AM

Very nice work Bill. Thank you!!!!!

bsmith8 · 01-31-2005, 10:10 AM

Dave.
To do it right, I figured I better move the light switch. I order one today from my dealer. It will be like the ceiling hall light switch in the bath. I used a utility knife and cut a small channel in the edge of the wall behind the door frame. I was also able to drill a 3/8 hole from the door frame to the cavity behind the current bedroom switch. I ran a wire around the door frame opening which is hidden by the door frame when in place. In the 4th and 5th picture you can see the wires hanging next to the french windows.
To remove the door frame you first remove the door hinges and strike plate. I used a stiff puddy knife to remove the trim from the bedroom side of the door. The door frame is one piece and I was able to knock it out with my fist. You could use a hammer if necessary. I removed all the brads by pulling them through the back. I used my own brad nailer to replace the frame. The hardest part was cutting the channel for the wire. I used 18gauge wire which is plenty for that single light. The last thing I did was to move the blind over to the other side of the door. Also easy to do.
Here are the part numbers for the switch
135740-01-02A SWITCH - ROCKER - SPST - ON/OFF - WHITE

135741-01-02A SWITCH - BASE - SINGLE - WHITE

135742-07-01A BEZEL - SWITCH - CEILING - WHITE

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Donavon
Thanks for the complement.
Bill

Nonno · 01-31-2005, 04:41 PM

Bill,

Excellent modification!

I also like what you did with the desk. Is that secured to both the floor and the wall?

DriVer · 01-31-2005, 04:49 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bsmith8:
Here are the part numbers for the switch... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Equipped with the Winnebago Part Numbers you can call our sponsor <span class="ev_code_RED">Winnebagoparts.com</span> and have those parts shipped directly to you next day air if you need them that bad.

"Check out" their "NEW" website. It's so much better than what they had before it's like night and day!

When you call them make it easy for both yourself and WP. Have your coach serial number handy. Having the Sn# they can tell you everything about your coach including colors, etc.

We just put in an order for a day/night shade cord. We just broke a cord and now I have to re-string the shade.

Parts should be here on Wednesday.

bsmith8 · 01-31-2005, 05:38 PM

Bob,
The top of the desk rests on the ledge across the back. I drove two screws up through the lip of the edge into the desk top. There is one L bracket under the bottom drawer fastening it to the floor. We bought a folding chair at Sam's club that we keep under the bed for travel.

Bill

bsmith8 · 02-08-2005, 11:34 AM

For those that were interested in this project, I got a ceiling light switch from Winnebago the other day. I had to cut a "well" for the wires and the plugs on the back of switch in the wall. I used a knife and a small chisel. The switch mounts perfectly between the frame of the door and the trim on the window.
Project is all done.
Bill