Bad window

[wstalker]

I just purchased a 2005 Winnebago Vectra 40AD and the driver window is what I would consider compromised. There is a cloud between the two panes and I assume the window will have to be replaced. Makes it extremely hard to see the driver side mirrors. has anyone else had this issue. I am in Tucson,Az and if anyone has any good recommendations for getting it fixed I would appreciate it. The people I bought it from were not exactly the most honest but so far nothing major.

[Cousin Ed]

I think everyone has had that problem sooner or later. We had 4 small windows fixed on this MH and I know people with Country Coaches and Entegras have had the same problem. There are lost of shops that can fix them, maybe someone from your area will chime in.

[dstinch]

Originally Posted by Cousin Ed

I think everyone has had that problem sooner or later. We had 4 small windows fixed on this MH and I know people with Country Coaches and Entegras have had the same problem. There are lost of shops that can fix them, maybe someone from your area will chime in.

Me to! pass. door window.

Don

[cbeierl]

That might be covered under insurance since it obstructs the driver's view of the mirror.

[RayJr]

I had a few fixed on my 2003 Journey and for the most they did a fair job. I had exposed edges and they didn't turn out too swift, I got credit for the repair. I ended up taking the panes out and sending them down to them. Some people go directly to the shop and have them done. Anyway the outfit I used, and there not the only ones doing it, was Suncoast Designers, PO Box 7060, Hudson Florida 34674 the phone # 727-868-2773 internet suncoastdesigners.com They also sell do it yourself kits but even though I can just about fix anything this was above my pay grade.

[LEMO]

RV Glass Solutions has a repair shop in Phoenix. You can boondock in their lot while the work is being done.RV Windshield Replacement | Recreational Vehicle Windshield Replacement and Repair | RV Glass Solutions

[sdlowe11]

Originally Posted by dstinch

Me to! pass. door window.

Don

You may want to consider getting that window replaced with laminated glass (same as windshield glass). I'm happy with mine, and of course it will never fog again. A good glass installer can measure and order it for you. I wish I could have replaced more of my windows with the laminated glass, but the thickness didn't allow it.

[wstalker]

I have been reading about that Steve. It appears as if there is a shop local that does it. Thank you

[INSPECTORBOB]

Originally Posted by wstalker

I have been reading about that Steve. It appears as if there is a shop local that does it. Thank you

If you are so inclined, it really is not that difficult. I have a window above the driver door which was double pane. Measured about 12" high x 43" long. Cheapest estimate for a new window (not including installation labor) was over $400.00.

I removed the inside trim, loosened the outside flange with a putty knife, and pulled the frame and window out, and separated the glass to see if I could clean it. It was etched, so that was not an option. The original window had 2-1/8" thick glass panes, with an 1/8" spacer between them. I ordered a 1/4" piece of tempered glass with a grey tint, which cost me $51.00. Also ordered 3/8" thick round "Windo-Weld" butyl rope from Amazon for about $20, and bought some black "ProFlex" for $7.00. Add a roll of flat butyl tape, and some clear silicon sealer. Total material cost is under $100.00.

Disgard the old glass and spacer. Use the 3/8" Windo-Weld on the inside of the frame,here the glass goes. Set the glass in place. Secure with Proflex around the perimeter to seal it to the frame. Reinstall the vinyl trim. Use the flat butyl tape between the outside flange and the outside of the rig wall.

Evenly tighten the screws which hold the inside trim to pull the window aginast the rig. Trim the butyl if it seeps out. Then run a very small bead of silicon around the two sides and top where the frame meets the rig, and your done!

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by INSPECTORBOB

If you are so inclined, it really is not that difficult. I have a window above the driver door which was double pane. Measured about 12" high x 43" long. Cheapest estimate for a new window (not including installation labor) was over $400.00.

I removed the inside trim, loosened the outside flange with a putty knife, and pulled the frame and window out, and separated the glass to see if I could clean it. It was etched, so that was not an option. The original window had 2-1/8" thick glass panes, with an 1/8" spacer between them. I ordered a 1/4" piece of tempered glass with a grey tint, which cost me $51.00. Also ordered 3/8" thick round "Windo-Weld" butyl rope from Amazon for about $20, and bought some black "ProFlex" for $7.00. Add a roll of flat butyl tape, and some clear silicon sealer. Total material cost is under $100.00.

Disgard the old glass and spacer. Use the 3/8" Windo-Weld on the inside of the frame,here the glass goes. Set the glass in place. Secure with Proflex around the perimeter to seal it to the frame. Reinstall the vinyl trim. Use the flat butyl tape between the outside flange and the outside of the rig wall.

Evenly tighten the screws which hold the inside trim to pull the window aginast the rig. Trim the butyl if it seeps out. Then run a very small bead of silicon around the two sides and top where the frame meets the rig, and your done!

So the window glass was etched from the moisture that had built up between the glass? Interesting.

I have a similar pane on the passenger side that has some moisture build up. It restricts the passenger side rear view mirror quite a bit but not completely. I have considered taking a glass cutter around the perimeter of the inside glass then just knocking it out gently. Cleaning the remaining glass and just going with the remaining single pane window in that location. IF the glass is etched like yours this option may be of much good.

Thoughts?

[INSPECTORBOB]

Hi Tom,

I did do that on one of my windows. The triangular window ahead of the driver door was fogged slightly, so I tried to do something similar. I got lucky, as the glass still looked ok once I cleaned it up..not perfect, but ok. Unfortunately, you won't know if that is an option until you actually break the glass, or take the window apart. With the window I discussed above, that was not an option. It was etched beyond repair. I tried everything on it to try to clean or polish it out, but no dice. I have a few more that are bad, and rather than spend a ton of money on replacing the windows, or dealing with the mess of trying to clean up the glass after breaking the window, I decided to just figure out how to replace the glass.

I need to warn you, though. You SHOULD NOT USE A GLASS CUTTER ON TEMPERED GLASS!! It will shatter, and small bits of glass wil fly everywhere! The pieces will likely be the size of a pea or smaller. Also, be prepared to be picking out the little bits of glass that remain in the frame, all around the perimeter. It's a really tedious job to try and get the little pieces out, as the window is likely secured in the frame with some type of adhesive. You will need to pry at them gently, because if you slip and tap the outside glass, especially along the raw edge, it will likely shatter, too. That's actually what happened to me on this window. I did not intend to break the glass, but I got a tiny brass tube, and figured I could pump something thru the seal into the window to try to dry it. But just pushing the tube thru the seal caused it to shatter, as I felt it hit the edge of the glass. I've also had a tempered glass frameless tub door shatter. The contractors had just finished installing it, and they hadn't properly adjusted the stop. Just tapping the door edge against the frame stop literally caused it to explode! I had several cuts on my face and arms.

If you can get most of the little pieces out, and only little bits remain below the edge, I would then mask the glass and frame, and fill the channel where the old glass was with black silicone, or something similar. Then, you should be able to wet your finger with water or mineral spirits, and run it over the bead to smooth it out. Just be sure that any little pieces that remain are well below the edge of the channel so you don't cut your finger. If you are going to take this route, I suggest you tape plastic sheeting up against the glass around the entire frame. Then just take a small pointed object, like an awl or ice pick and poke thru the sheeting, and down along the frame until you feel the edge of the glass. A gentle tug at that point will likely shatter the window. Then stick the end of your shop vac thru the plastic sheeting and suck up the major part of the broken pieces. IN ANY EVENT, WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES!!

Good luck! I'd like to hear what you decide to do. Let me know if I can offer any other suggestions

Bob

[AKIQPilot]

Thanks Bob, great information. I like the idea about covering the complete window in plastic first then attempt to break it with an awl or pick at the edge of the glass. The window should shatter and dump to the bottom of the plastic wrapped sill.

Hopefully soon I will get tired of looking through the fog and make an attempt at removing the inside glass. Worst thing that happens is I break both glasses and have to take the coach to the local glass shop for repair. They quoted me about $300 installed for a complete new window a few years back.

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by AKIQPilot

Thanks Bob, great information. I like the idea about covering the complete window in plastic first then attempt to break it with an awl or pick at the edge of the glass. The window should shatter and dump to the bottom of the plastic wrapped sill.

Hopefully soon I will get tired of looking through the fog and make an attempt at removing the inside glass. Worst thing that happens is I break both glasses and have to take the coach to the local glass shop for repair. They quoted me about $300 installed for a complete new window a few years back.

That is what I did 4 years ago. I used an automatic center punch on the aft rear corner. The window shattered into the plastic bag. I used a tube of black silicone to fair around the inside.
My outer window is not tinted, no great loss to me.
Now I can see my mirror!

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by DAN L

That is what I did 4 years ago. I used an automatic center punch on the aft rear corner. The window shattered into the plastic bag. I used a tube of black silicone to fair around the inside.
My outer window is not tinted, no great loss to me.
Now I can see my mirror!

Ok good to know. You mean a snap punch type of centering punch?

Similar to this?

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by AKIQPilot

Ok good to know. You mean a snap punch type of centering punch?

Similar to this?
Team

Dats da 1. Mine came from harbor freight though.
Also I taped the window with duct tape b4 punching it.