Basement Air Problem

Ron & Dee · 06-28-2009, 08:16 AM

The A/C in my 02 32' Adventurer doesn't seem to be cooling as good as it should. I am only getting 16 degrees difference from inlet to outlet. Last weekend while camping in 96 degrees we were only getting 81 degrees inside

I have done all of the Forum search for problems but would like a little more help. In doing the search a lot of cooling problems seems to point to duct work. I don't know exactly where to look for the faulty duct, or duct problems. Could someone explain exactly where I should look?

Both compressors are working as near as I can tell with amperage at 23 amps with nothing else running. The filters are new and the coil was cleaned last year.

Thanks for any help,

Ron

rvten · 06-28-2009, 09:03 AM

Are you keeping the shades down on the side the sun is shining on? This will cut down on the heat inside. Also block the sun up front windshield.

Duct work conn. that everyone talks about is under the MH. Where the A/C connect to the duct work.

Ron & Dee · 06-28-2009, 11:19 AM

All shades are down, reflective windshield screen on front.

I can see about 1.5 feet of the insulated duct coming out of the A/C and going up the back wall, everything at that point looks intact.

Ron

fun time · 06-28-2009, 06:17 PM

What you read concerning faulty ductwork is just that. I am not sure if your coach is the same as several others I have seen with this problem, but it no doubt will be similar. Go to the area where the compressor is located outside. Using a flashlight, you will most likely need to lay down on your back and what you will be looking for is where the duct work connects to the blower fan outlet I have seen this ductwork come partially or even totally off the flange hence cooling the outside of the MH instead of the inside. The fix is simple but can be a little tough to get to and that is simply re-attach the ductwork and while your at it do a better job than Winny did. I have also seen the ductwork come apart further up the backside of the coach (towards the upper backside). That required removing a few items to get to that area and re-attaching.
Another way to find if this is your problem is if the ductwork is separated you should be able to put your arm in the general area I described above and you should be able to feel the cold air blowing near the ductwork. I have seen this problem on more than 6 different model Winny coaches over the years including my own. Good luck

Ron & Dee · 06-29-2009, 02:35 AM

Quote:

I have also seen the ductwork come apart further up the backside of the coach (towards the upper backside).

Being the pessimist that I am, I think that is where my problem is, but it's to late to take care of it now since we leave for vacation this Thursday.

I can see the shinny duct connected to the air handler and it looks ok, but I do feel a cool spot on the back of the MH where the duct runs up that area.

Thanks,

Ron

AFChap · 06-29-2009, 02:08 PM

Quote:

do feel a cool spot on the back of the MH where the duct runs up that area.

When I stuck my arm up the rear near the ductwork, I felt cold air. The largest leak in mine was where the short horizontal duct from the ac unit connected to the vertical duct going up the back. If I reached up on top of the "L" connection, my hand would get so cold it was almost uncomfortable. I washed the dust/dirt off the top of the "L" and then wrapped duct tape around the connection several times -- not easy to reach, but I managed to stop the outflow of cold air.

Ron & Dee · 06-29-2009, 06:53 PM

AFCHAP

I wish mine was that easy.

Looks like it's going to require taking the back cap off. I can feel the cold spot about half way up the back, so something has come loose inside the back wall.

Ron

Roadking · 07-01-2009, 10:02 PM

Ron: Awhile ago in this forum I read a post on how someone repaired the duct joint that is about half way up the back without removing the cap. After I read the post I checked my duct by using a 3 foot stick with a small paper wind detector taped to the end. Anything that will blow in the breeze, like tissue paper, streams of paper, ect. With a light you can see up the back several feet and moving the wind detector around you should be able to determine where the air leak is. Once you find where the leak is you may be able to fix it without removing the cap. Removing the cap sounds very difficult and expensive. Good luck fixing it.

Ron & Dee · 07-02-2009, 02:43 AM

Thanks Roadking,

I saw that post also, and it sounds like a very good check but I can only see about 1.5 feet of the duct leaving the AC. I would have to remove some sheet metal to be able to see further up the back of the MH. I'm not sure how much trouble it would be to remove the sheet metal.

If I do have a air leak it must be small because it seems like I'm getting plenty of air flow coming out of the front grilles.

I did notice that in the back of the MH where the duct goes up the back wall, there is a rectangle box like structure that would be easier to remove and maybe repair the wall paper after removal rather than getting to the duct from the outside.

Ron

DriVer · 07-02-2009, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron & Dee

I can see the shinny duct connected to the air handler and it looks ok, but I do feel a cool spot on the back of the MH where the duct runs up that area.

Ron, If you feel any cool spots on the back cap in the area of the duct riser, that's where the leak is. Been there and done that.

In order to resolve the issue, the rear cap had to be removed and the repair was then made. It's been holding well ever since.

Not all shops are willing or capable to do this work, shop around.

Ron & Dee · 07-02-2009, 06:07 AM

Thanks Driver,

There is a cool spot about half way up the back of the MH that I can feel.

It looks like it could be accessed through the inside wall at the exact lotation of the duct. I'll have to see if that is possible.

Ron

golden · 07-02-2009, 04:17 PM

I WAS QUOTED A MINIMUM OF SIX HOURS TO REMOVE THE REAR CAP AND THEN THERE WAS NO GUARANTEE THAT WOULD BE THE PROBLEM. i'VE ELECTED NOT TO DO THAT FOR NOW AS i'M NOT CONVINCED THE DUCTING HAS COME LOOSE.

I ALSO SAW WHERE SOME SAID YOU COULD GET TO THE DUCTING BY REMOVING THE REAR LENS OFF THE BRAKE LIGHTS IN THE BACK. I HAVEN'T TRIED THAT YET BUT WOULD BE INTERESTED IF SOME ONE DID.

Sorry for the all caps. I'm just too lazy to go back and do it right!

phays · 07-02-2009, 06:27 PM

I would suggest not using gray duct tape for any duct repair. The material is famous for falling off after a short time. If you want to use tape, I would suggest going to Lowe's or Home Depot and buying foil duct tape. Look specifically for markings on the tape showing UL-181A-P. This tape has been tested by Underwriter's Labs for suitable use on ducting. I've used this on both fiber glass duct and metal duct. If you clean the surface first, it will stay stuck. After cleaning any dust off, use an alcohol saturated rag and wipe the surface. Then wait for the alcohol to dry. You must rub this tape down. I use a plastic squeegee, about the size of a credit card but thicker. I don't know if either Lowe's or Home Depot sells the squeegees.

Most of these tapes will also work on flex duct connections also but you need to use a hose clamp on the core to metal fitting connection first. Then tape the core with the tape.

Either of these repairs will be a real bear in confined spaces. Good luck.

MWSartain · 07-10-2009, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron & Dee

Thanks Driver,

There is a cool spot about half way up the back of the MH that I can feel.

It looks like it could be accessed through the inside wall at the exact lotation of the duct. I'll have to see if that is possible.

Ron

Have you ever serviced this AC? I'm right in the middle of doing mine. Mines a 99 model Vectra that I've had for two years.

Here are my findings;

Some of the foam insulation had dried and came apart in several places, allowing air leaks in several places.

I have cleaned the inside coils in the past and I thought they looked pretty clean, after removing the unit and getting a clear view of the coils sitting on my saw horses I realized they needed alot more cleaning. It was night and day.

Lastly, I had suspected a air leak in my duct. While removing the cooling unit the duct just slipped off into my hands. The place where mine came loose is 56" from the bottom. I'm hoping that I can just remove my rear bumper to get to it.

Good luck on all your findings, Mark.

Ptribbey · 07-10-2009, 06:57 AM

You may have a duct problem or something else, but the first thing I would do is remove and clean the unit. My house air was so poor I installed a roof air to help cool my coach. I had the unit cleaned, my air flow doubled and the roof air was only needed when it got really hot. Both the evaporator, and condenser coils need cleaning, and while you have it our you should oil your motors, and pillow block bearings. I had a dealer do this for me and it was about 3 hours labor.

MWSartain · 07-10-2009, 09:12 AM

Here's where I am this morning. I attemped to access the top duct by cutting a hole thru the tail light housing. This may have worked if I were 6' 6" and only wieghed 180 lbs.

Now I have taken the rear bumper of, which by the way was very easy and I removed it by myself. It was a lot lighter than I thought. I can now touch the duct but not good enough to really work with it.