Turns out, most clamp meters have a hard time reading the neutral amps on shore power. This has to do with apposing current and phase shift.
The video test I ran was on shore power only. Had I done the same test using my Onan 7500 generator, which has two single-phase power lines, then the current in L1+L2 would equal the sum of both.
For example, on Onan 7500 power:
If L1=11A and L2=9A, and you measured the current in the neutral return line, you would get 20A on the neutral wire, which is the of currents in phase.
Colman Basement AC Maintenance Review - Replaced PTCR (Motor Starter)
Today I decided to do a little basement AC maintenance, because it seemed like my basement AC was not cooling as well inside my RV.
Note: When you are shore power your inside Amp Meter will be blank. This is normal. So to very your #2 compressor is not turning on, you can always start up the generator... and then start the basement AC. Then you can see the amps display around 14-16A; and it may settle down around 12A. Likewise, you can see the #2 compressor start and it will settle down around 9-10A; which means your total amps will be in the 19-23A range... depending on your other AC devices running at the time.
BASEMENT AC TESTING PROCEDURE
I got out my multimeter and started looking inside. All you have to do is open the basement AC cover and prop it open with a 6' 2x4. ...Or some people use a bungie cord and connect it to the rear cap ladder to hold the basement AC door open.
By now we all know the START CIRCUIT is often referred to as a "HARD START KIT."
This "KIT" consists of a 88-108uF Start Capacitor and a PTCR device that is called a "Motor Starter." Note: The OEM version is Part # WSX5 or WSX7 and they seem to have a patent that may lead you to believe you can't use just any PTCR designed for residential refrigerators, but this is not the case.
The PTCR device is a 20-ohm, Bi-metal switch that is Normally Closed. And then it opens at ~1,000 ohms -- which is a result of the Start Circuit creating heat after it starts.
It only takes split seconds for the PTCR to go from 20-ohms (NC) to 1,000-ohms (OL); and this is what you want. I.e., the Hard Start Kit "kicks" up the torque applied to the compressor motor in order to help it start; and then the PTCR opens so there is no current flowing through the Start Windings in the compressor, which again is what you want, because if that PTCR stays closed while the compressor is running, then the start windings in the compressor will overheat and burnout; leaving you with a very expensive and exhaustive complete tear down and basement AC over haul.
To avoid this it is necessary to verify your Start & Run Capacitors are in spec every 3-5 years, depending on how often you use the basement AC.
==> Today I checked my Start Circuit and found a bad Motor Starter (PTCR). I know it is bad for 3 reasons:
1) The ohms I measured were 1,200 and not 20-ohms like it should be.
2) The continuity test did not beep.
Remember the PTCR is supposed to be N.C., but when I tested it there should have been a beep.
So even though the PTCR measured above the 1,000-ohm threshold it was frozen in the O.L. position, which means there was no added torque to help the #2 compressor start. (On the other hand, I'm glad it failed in the "open circuit" position or else my compressor windings would have overheated.)
3) I also remember the #2 compressor making more noise when starting vs. the loudness of Compressor #1 starting.
==> Frankly, I paid no attention to this noise variance, but I will in the future now that I believe you can sometime detect a basement AC issue by listening to the noise level when it starts. *So don't ignore it!
Now I know, if you hear your compressor making noise when it starts then perhaps you have lost your Start Circuit. I.e., there is no extra torque applied to start the compressor. So, the noise you hear is the motor trying very hard to start. Ergo, maybe this is why they call it a "Hard Start Kit."
==> Fortunately, I had an extra PTCR.
Where can you buy a PTCR? ...As far as I know, you can only buy these PTCRs at commercial appliance repair shops or on Amazon, but it's hard to find one you plug-in on top of the capacitor.
Of course you can run a short (high heat tolerant) wire from the Start Capacitor to a remote mounted PTCR, but remember these thing and get 150-200F (hot) when you have shore power that is on the low side (108-110V range). So only use the highest quality wire, with very tight connectors, and keep it as short as you can.
Another alternative is to remove your Start Capacitor and PTCR-Motor Starter (aka "Hard Start Kit") and replace it with a 2-wire SPP4E, which is cheaper and possibly easier to find? TBD.
In addition, the SPP4E has an electronic delay circuit that replace the PTCR function. And the advantage the SPP4E has over the OEM Hard Start Kit is that it's not affected by 105+F weather like the PTCR can be.
So if you find your AC compressors are having a hard time re-starting in really hot weather, then you might install the SPP4E in place of your OEM "Hard Start Kit" and see if that works better? It should.
Note: In previous threads I mention the SPP6 and that too is an alternative, but it uses a PTCR device. So I would think the electronic SPP4E is more suitable if you know you will operating your RV Basement AC in very hot climates.
RUN CAPACITORS should always be within 5% of their rated micro-farad spec. And my basement AC uses Panasonic Compressors, so my run capacitor is
The run capacitor is always in use when the compressor is running. And when it is out of spec your compressor has to work harder. And when it works harder that will shorten its useful life.
So, it's a very good idea check these every 3-5 years depending on your percent use. (A lot or average.) Plus these capacitors do age so even if you don't use your Basement AC you still need to know it requires some service to avoid costly and inconvenient shut down during HOT WEATHER!
What do you use to verify that your capacitor is "in specification"?
I know how to check to see if a capacitor is working by using a ohm meter, but what kind of test equipment do you need to measure the microfarads?
Quote from the previous posting:
Quote:
RUN CAPACITORS should always be within 5% of their rated micro-farad spec. And my basement AC uses Panasonic Compressors, so my run capacitor is
The run capacitor is always in use when the compressor is running. And when it is out of spec your compressor has to work harder. And when it works harder that will shorten its useful life.
So, it's a very good idea check these every 3-5 years depending on your percent use. (A lot or average.) Plus these capacitors do age so even if you don't use your Basement AC you still need to know it requires some service to avoid costly and inconvenient shut down during HOT WEATHER!
Many multimeters have this ability. While you're at it look for one with a clamp-on ammeter that will read DC amps, which you'll find very helpful. Without the clamp-on feature, you have to disconnect a wire to measure the amps flowing through it. There's no need to spend a lot of money for one that you'll only use occasionally. Here's one option:
I used the multimeter BobC recommended below. It measures InRush Current really well, which is a feature most meters do not have. However, the "beep" sound level checker for Continuity Mode is not that loud.
Here's a multimeter for $23 on Amazon that also has 6000 counts, but it does not say if if measures Inrush Current?
I posted that question on Amazon so my the seller will answer it any day now. If it does measure Inrush I don't think you will find a cheaper or better made meter:
Note: At first, it might seem overwhelming to use a multimeter, but the more you use it the more you will see it's simple and should be a part of everyone's RV Tool Box. ...And IMO you should get a $5-$20 voltage tester too! In fact, it may turn out you will use this 12V test probe more than the multimeter! Here's one on Amazon for $12.
I used the multimeter BobC recommended below. It measures InRush Current really well, which is a feature most meters do not have. However, the "beep" sound level checker for Continuity Mode is not that loud.
Here's a multimeter for $23 on Amazon that also has 6000 counts, but it does not say if if measures Inrush Current?
I posted that question on Amazon so my the seller will answer it any day now. If it does measure Inrush I don't think you will find a cheaper or better made meter:
Note: At first, it might seem overwhelming to use a multimeter, but the more you use it the more you will see it's simple and should be a part of everyone's RV Tool Box. ...And IMO you should get a $5-$20 voltage tester too! In fact, it may turn out you will use this 12V test probe more than the multimeter! Here's one on Amazon for $12.
Thanks for the info on capacitance measuring with the new meters.
My old fluke meter I still have from my tool bag, that I was allowed to keep when I retired from a major computer company 24 years ago, doesn't have a capacitance measuring function.
I have always just use the ohm meter function to check capacitors. I just put the meter leads on on the capacitor terminals and watched the resistance increase as the capacitor charged. If I see infinite ohms then the capacitor was bad (open), if zero ohms then it was shorted.
For $40 bucks on Amazon I went ahead and ordered the one BobC gave the link for.
al1florida: You made a good choice. I also like that meter which is very accurate and very fast. It also measures Inrush... but one would argue that if on generator power and you don't blow a generator fuse or CB in you main panel, then you inrush is acceptable and you don't need a meter.
Okay... that's fine, until you do blow a CB and you will want to measure your inrush.
Then one would argue... if you are blowing CB you probably have an "unbalanced system" and that can mean everything from a Run Cap or a Start Cap being out of spec. I can also mean your PTCR is not measuring 20-25 ohms on the bench or it is "OPEN" and therefore not putting the start capacitor "in the circuit" for milliseconds during start-up.
If you subscribe to the old adage: Measure twice... Cut once. ...Then you will like having the inrush option to feel more confident you have done all you can do to "balance" your system.
Note: Every time you start your Basement AC you will find your inrush will vary. I'm guessing this has to do with the fact our basement ACs use a rotary compressor; and like all rotary motors they some times kick-over easy and other time hard.
Hence a second reason they call these start capacitors, with a motor starter, a "Hard Start Kit."
I would bet that 9 out of 10 RV owners do not perform 3-5 year periodic Basement AC or Rooftop AC maintenance check-ups.
I was one of these owners until today. And now my basement AC is working much better. As in, now my fan is blowing more air into my cabin; and now the air blowing into the cabin is -5F colder!!!
HOW DID I TUNE UP MY BASEMENT AC?
* It was easy with a multimeter that measures capacitance.
* It was also nice to have a multimeter that measures "inrush" current, but frankly you don't have do this step unless you need peace of mind... like I do.
* And by the way, the best place to measure "inrush" current on your C1-Red Wire and your C2-Black wire, is inside your Main Circuit Panel. Then you can turn on your thermostat and monitor C1 on the Red wire (aka L1); and and after the #1 basement AC compressor starts on C1; then you can quickly move the "inrush" clamp meter to the black wire, on C2, and measure it's inrush current.
Again, this is not exact science, and every new basement AC start will produce a different "inrush" current, which is rarely a problem when you are connected to shore power.
However, on generator power you will be "testing the metal" of you system; and that includes your generator output capability vs. "inrush" current.
Keep in mind your Coleman Mach has 2 compressors and each one is about 1HP and puts out 12,000 BTU. And your Start Circuit is boosted by the addition of a Hard Start Kit.
We already know the Start Capacitor is supposed to be 88-108uF, but there is not much information on the PTCR. Earlier I said it should measure 20-ohm, but this is a mistake. My research now shows 22-ohms is the correct resistance you should get on the bench. And then the PTCR "OPENS" the circuit when it heats up, and that occurs at about 1,000-ohms. So the amount of time it takes your PTCR to go from 20-ohms to 1,000-ohms is the time the Start Capacitor is "in the circuit" and boosting or adding torque to the rotary compressor motor.
* IMO, it turns out that any PTCR in the 20-25 ohm range will work just fine. The problem is find a store that sells them. This included the WSX5 or WSX7. Why?
RV repair places want to sell you a new AC for $1,000 - $1,800. They don't want to repair them.
And HVAC techs will 90% of the time not want to work on your RV AC.
So us owners have to learn about AC service and when you do it's really not hard; and you will not only save a ton of money; your AC will not crap-out on you during vacation and when it's 105+F outside! So do yourself a favor an get out there and check your AC specs.
Further, us basement AC owner have it much easier than the rooftop AC owners since... da... you don't have to climb up on the roof. You just need to have the balls to open up your basement AC box and do some simple multimeter test. And I say simple, because everything you need to know has been covered in this thread. SO GOOD LUCK! ...An be sure to send me some "thanks" since the administrators of this forum sometime think I am too ruff on some forum members who don't like my tone.
HISTORY
* Last summer I replaced my 45uF Run Caps and today, 9 months later, today, I verified my Run Caps are still in spec.
* I then verified my Start Capacitors were in spec. ...And they were.
==> However, I found on PTCR "Motor Starter" WSX5 was bad.
==> I confirmed it was bad because it measured 1,100 ohms on the bench; and it failed the continuity test. I.e., it did not "beep" like a Normally Closed (N.C.) PTCR should. So I replaced it.
==> Then I found my inboard fan capacitor was only measuring 5.9-ohim instead of 7.5-ohm. ...But here the good part: When I replaced this capacitor, my blower fan ran faster and more efficient, and the air temperature coming out my ceiling vent dropped by -5F.
==> I also replace both C1 & C2 basement AC relays (Part #T92P7D22-22). My old ones were 17 years old, and working fine, but just to be sure I don't have a relay failure in the future, I decided to install new basement AC relays. (Of course, this step is optional, but I considered it good insurance for the months ahead. After all, those old relays switched on an off for 17 years and who knows how low the shore power the previous owner used. I.e., low power sources really heats up the circuits in an AC system. So now that I have new relays, that one less thing I have to worry about.)
CONCLUSIONS
* About 1-month ago, I was boondocking on the beaches of Port Aransas, and I running my generator. And just by chance I noticed, my amps going to 34A vs. the nominal 28A I would normally see. So, I shut down my AC. Then I waited 10 minutes and restarted it; and the amps were back in the normal range.
* I ran my AC for about 2 weeks more, but during this time I started to notice the cooling efficiency dropping.
==> UNTIL TODAY.
* Today my inside temperature is -5F cooler than before and I attribute this to replacing the "Indoor" fan capacitor (7.5uF). Now the blower is spinning faster and more air-volume is coming out the ceiling vents; and it is colder.
So I am very pleased I got outside and performed this "tune-up."
It also was not hard. It looks confusing at first, but when you take everything in steps, it was really quite easy to remove parts (1-by-1) and replace the wires.
TIP: If you look closely at one of the first few pictures, you will see that I took a door screen mesh, and I cut it to fit over my basement AC condenser. Why?
I found debris and particularly cotton wood trees, shedding in June, gets stopped by the screen and does not clog-up my condenser fins. Plus it's easy to use a brush and clean the screen.
...Air gets sucked inside by the "outdoor" blower motor and the screen keeps my basement AC working at its peak!
I did this modification 2 years ago and it really works well. So I'm recommending it with my other tips and suggestions.
I also use a lot of Rustoleum "Rust Restore" paint for all the rust spots on the frame; and then I follow that up with Rustoleum Flat Black or Satin Black paint.
I forgot to ask, can anyone tell me if the picture of my Coleman Mach (2-ton) Circuit Board is the "newer" circuit board version or an older one?
...I think it's the newer one, because I see some ICs, but I would like to be certain.
Also, all my diagrams suggest I need a 12.5uF outdoor capacitor, but I don't have one. So what gives?
Maybe, if I do have a "newer" CB, and I think I do, then I no longer need a 12.5F outdoor blower capacitor -- and if this is the case -- how did they accomplish this?
CLEARLY... I do not see a 12.4uF capacitor in my electrical bay. So either I don't need one or the previous owner left the 12.5uF capacitor inside the box... where I can not get to it. So what gives?
Note: Replacing the "indoor" 7.5uF capacitor is making a huge difference inside my RV. And now that I have an 8,000 BTU portable AC in my living room area, it's actually too cold when it's 80F or less.
...That is in dryer climates like I am in right now in Montana. The real test will be when I am in humid climates like camping on the beach in Port Aransas or where I find 90F heat and high humidity.
...I'm sure I will not be "cold" but I will be more comfortable. So if any of you have a 14" cabinet you can hide a GE 8,000 BTU portable AC inside, I highly recommend you upgrade ASAP. You will not regret your efforts!
Update & clarifications on how to best power your portable ac
UPDATE: Here in Montana, it was 92F-96F all week, and the humidity ranged from 25%-45%.
That said, I was not in the humid, hot South, but nevertheless I was very comfortable inside my RV during the full-sun time of the day. And far more comfortable vs. the way I remember how it felt inside the RV on a 95F day at peak sun.
In fact, I was actually "cold" inside at times with the portable AC blowing on me. That said, anytime it's 90F or below outside, in dry heat, I usually just run the portable AC and use the basement AC fan WITHOUT running the compressors.
Seriously, I do not need the "high-fan" setting in Montana 95F heat until the peak hot periods of the day when the sun was beating on one side of my RV.
So that begs the question: How comfortable will I be when I leave Montana for hotter weather in August? TBD.
...And when I return to the humid Texas beaches of Port Aransas, and camp right on the beach in 95F heat, with high humidity? ...I don't know, but I'm sure I will be more comfortable now that I have 8,000BTU more than I had before. I so look forward to the test and more favorable results.
MORE ABOUT HOW TO POWER A PORTABLE AC AFTER YOU INSTALL IT
I absolutely feel that if you have a 14"W cabinet, that will allow you to "stuff" a 27.5" tall GE-8000BTU-AC inside, than you should do it. And you will love this upgrade as much as you do your residential refrigerator upgrade. I guarantee it!
...And then, you really should find a way to run this portable AC on L2/C2 for these reasons:
Note: The idea of calling it C2 implies the hot wire is protected by a circuit breaker in the RV vs. L2 which is only protected by the 50A shore power circuit breaker. So keep this in mind as you read on.
There are two ways to power your portable AC on L2/C2:
1) You can tap into your C2 main circuit box; or 2) you can run an extension cord to shore power.
However, I preferred to go with option #3 by doing it this way:
* I added an outlet to my ATS; and then I wired this outlet to L2 inside the ATS box.
* Then I protected a 50' extension cord I ran to the portable AC by adding a 15A, push-button, circuit breaker to the ATS box. (See picture below.)
* And with this configuration, I also have the option to run another 25-50' extension cord to the 20A or 30A shore power outlet... that avoids the RV 50A Service, and all it's EMS protections, and will allow me to run the portable AC off my house 15A outlet without fear of blowing the house 15A circuit breaker, because the portable AC only pulls 8A on high and has a "soft start" built in.
* I also like using a separate power cord when I am in an RV park; and that's because the lower I keep my total amps going through the ATS the better!
GENERATER POWER CONSIDERATIONS
Why is this important? ...Answer: A few posts back you read how my total generator amps jumped from 28A to 33A after I was running the portable AC with the basement AC on generator power... after 3 hours of use.
...The problem is that all your wall sockets, and residential refrigerator, are on L1/C1; and most of the current draw is from INDUCTIVE AC-LOADS. So, when you add your portable AC to L1/C1 that will put more stress on your ATS relays and you could face an "overheated situation" after 3 hours of use.
That said, your 50A service will not run 28A on heavy inductive loads for more than 3-4 hours. So don't think for one minute your 50A service means you can run 50A continuously for long periods of time. The real number is more like 24A.
...and when these loads are being powered by your generator there are other considerations I will not go into now.
Here's what I would like to relate: Inductive Air Conditioner loads put a higher demand on your ATS relays vs. "resistive loads." And your generator Stator-Rotor output will run in a more balanced condition when L1=L2, or as close to it as you can possibly make it.
So then. If the goal is to power your portable AC on L2/C2 you have a couple choices on how to wire it:
1) You can figure out how to re-wire the string of wall socket outlet from C1 to C2 at the power distribution box; or... and I prefer this method better...
2) You can modify your ATS or add an outlet next to your ATS so you have the choice of powering-up your dedicated portable AC to the 20 or 30A shore power socket.,..
...and with this configuration, your portable AC load is kept separate from your RV 50A Service.
Note: You have to add a protective, push-button circuit breaker in the ATS box that matches your extension wire gauge. For example, I used a 14-gauge high grade" extension cord so I used a 15A fuse to "Protect" the hot wire in the extension cord.
INSTALLATION
This installation was not hard, not that expensive, and the rewards are excellent!
I'm suggesting, that if your cabinet is under a window, like you see mine is in the pictures above, then I really doubt you will hit a stud.
To know 95% for sure, you can get a high powered $25 "Stud Finder" and it will detect metal in your walls. Then you can test drill the wall from the inside before you commit. ...And if you are wrong, so what you just put back the Styrofoam and tape over the wall.
...But if you are right, you too can be super comfortable in 90-95F weather; and you will be running your basement AC 50% less, which will contribute to it's longevity too!
FIRST THINGS FIRST
I highly recommend you perform a basement AC tune-up if you have never done one.
And now that you know anyone can do it, with or with out a multi-meter, just replace all the capacitors and relays and keep your PTC-R Motor starter if your basement AC starts normally. And your AC will run colder. Then you can add the portable AC for extra cooling and comfort.
Still don't know if you do this upgrade? Fine. Any Handyman can do it for you. ...But if you live anywhere near Arizona, I would recommend you go see Carlos at The Reef RV Park in Puerto Penasco and let him handle the whole installation; and then hire Gabriel to wire your ATS.
In fact, you can be enjoying lunch and margaritas on the beach while these guys take care of you! (Seriously. I trust them that much!)
PS
The picture of the basement AC CB above is NOT the newer style CB which appears below.
Now that I have tuned-up my Basement AC I can post these conclusions and I will answer my own questions posted in previous threads:
Starting with "in-rush" current, this is in-rush of current that will last for ~1 second when the rotary compressor starts up. However, when I measured my "in-rush" on each compressor it turns out to be a range of 44-55A. And I think this has to do with a number of variables.
As mentioned the compressor is a rotary compressor so that alone is one variable. Another is OAT. And another is how long you wait between compressor test starts. (Note: The basement AC Circuit board has a timer circuit to prevent you from starting-and-stopping your compressor in too short of a time. So if your AC does not restart right away after you make a thermostat "call" then this is normal. Just wait 5-10 minutes and try again.)
To say the least, the whole "Hard Start" circuit is not an exact science. And even though the Motor Starter (PTCR) can be purchased in several ohm sizes, I found I was not able to lower the "in-rush" current by using an 18-ohm PTCR any more efficiently vs. using a 25-ohm PTCR. So if your Motor Starts ohms-out in this range of 18-25 ohms then it is probably working like it should. I.e., you will have continuity at rest, and then the PTCR is supposed to open when it gets to ~1000 ohms.
Note: : PTC stands for "Positive Temperature Coefficient" and the "R" means resistor. And the PTCR is just a bi-metal semiconductor thermal resistor with a positive temperature coefficient, which means that the resistance increases with increasing temperature.
When my basement AC compressor #2 had a starting problem, I found the PTCR mounted on top of the start capacitor was registering 1100-ohms and it failed the continuity test. ...However, the start capacitor was measuring 100uF which is within spec. So all I needed was a WSX-5 Motor Starter with the PTCR inside.
Much to my surprise, I was not able to order just the WSX5 for sale anywhere. ...And I looked everywhere.; ...The only way to obtain one of these motor starters is the order the Dometic Hard Start Kit (HSK), which includes both the start capacitor and the motor starter and it sells for ~$45 each; and you may need 2; or keep one for back-up.
Fortunately, these PTCR things don't go bad that often.
Then I got an idea. What if I ordered a new 22-ohm PTCR on Amazon; and then remove this good PTCR; and then put it inside the old WSX5 shell with the connectors I want... and it worked!
I removed the old PTCR from the WSX5 Motor Starter; and I inserted the new 22-ohm PTCR. It cost me $7 for 2 PTCR devices so now I have an extra one for future use. My point is that you should not throw your WSX5 away, because the WSX5 has a unique way of connecting to your capacitor by plugging in directly to it.
Note: A PTCR device can be bought on Amazon or at some Appliance Parts Stores.
A PTCR is just a bi-metal thermal switch (relay) that is "normally closed" at rest and then "opens" at ~1000-ohms.
And the time the PTCR remains closed is based on the time it takes the PTCR to go from 22-ohm to ~1000-ohms, and this is split seconds. The the PTCR "opens" and allows only milli-amps to pass through while the compressor is running. And this is what you want.
So then, the PTCR is a temperature sensitive device, and this is why some people have trouble restarting their air conditioner in hot weather... because it takes more time for the PTCR to cool off, without any current flowing through it. And when current is flowing through the WSX5-PTCR it will be hot to the touch. ...Maybe in the 170F-220F range. ...But it can get hotter if you are plugged into 110Vac vs. 120Vac since it will take more Amps of current to power your air conditioner. And this is why some PTCRs will melt... although that would really take a very low voltage of below 108V for that to happen and it will take some time.
In any event, if you do a visual inspection on all your capacitors and your Motor Starters you may find your problem component that way. And it's so easy to do. Just take off 1 screw that holds the cover over your air conditioner circuit box and everything will be very visible.
The problem is that a lot of RVers do not monitor their shore power voltage when they really should!
OTHER QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
1) My OEM Hard Start Kit setup includes a 88-108uF start cap + WSX5-22-ohm-PTCR Motor Starter. ...And I recommend you continue to use this HSK, because it gets the job done and installing a 5-2-1 is more work than it is worth, since it's not "tuned" to your system. However, I would consider using a Supco SPP4E (electronic relay) in place of the OEM-HSK if you operate your basement ac or rooftop ac in weather above 100F a lot.
2) Should I increase my start capacitor to 135-162uF? ...I think not. ...I tested a slightly larger capacitor, but it had no positive or negative affects on my basement AC. However, my compressors are still running strong and start normal. That said, if your AC has trouble starting then I would bump-up the start capacitor size, but keep the same Motor Starter. Note: Theoretically, a 15-ohm PTCR will keep the start capacitor "in the circuit" longer than a 25-ohm PTCR, but it's negligible.
3) If you compressor is still having a hard time starting or re-starting after 10 minutes, then I would change the 2 relays for $25 (Part # T92P7D22-12) and try again.
4) When you have problems finding parts on the road, and you want your AC to work, you an go to any Appliance Part Store and buy the Supco SPP6, but you might try ordering the Supco SPP4E and pick it up at an Amazon Locker in a big city if you are near one. Note: Both of these are 2-wire devices and anyone can take out the old HSK and install these Supco HSK. And btw, you do not uses your WSX5 since the Supco HSK include the motor start under their cap.
5) The best way to start your air conditioner and to know it is running in OPTIMUM form is to buy a $350 Soft Start Kit.
Note: Us diesel owners with a 7500-10,000W generator should have no problems starting our RV air conditioners, but if you have a smaller generator and you are having trouble starting your air conditioners then your only solution is to buy the Soft Start Kit and you have pay $350 per AC or per compressor if you want one on your basement AC which has 2 compressors inside.
I hope these threads help you "tune-up" your AC for less money. And frankly if you check your AC every 3 years then you probably will not run into any trouble for many years to come.
Finally, if your AC is making more noise than it used to... take action and do a visual inspection and then use a multi-meter to check your capacitors and ohms on your motor starter. ...And above all don't wait to long!
Here's a tip: I like to vacation in Montana where the Cotton Woods create a 2-week period of trying to multiply, I think, and during this time it's like snow if falling...
...And then my basement AC sucks all that cotton into my basement AC condenser where it then causes a mess between the fins.
SOLUTION: Take a metal or nylon screen commonly used to cover a screen door; and cut it to fit the perimeter of your basement AC. Then just use Gorilla Tape or some other high quality tape and use it to tape the screen to the air intake of the basement AC.
It works great! And now I just leave my basement AC door hanging from their hinge so I can use a fine workbench brush to brush all the cotton and other debris away!
Here's a picture of just one day when I run my basement AC and it sucks all sorts of stuff in. ...And in 15 seconds I just broom it away and my condenser fins are clean as a whistle.
I think I must clean this screen 4-5x over a 2 month period; and I also found no problems painting the condenser with a light coat of Rustoleum Rust Converter and then a top coat of Satin-Black.
Well I rolled the dice on the relays No matter how I search for them . I come up with a varity of names weather i search for Potter & Brumfiels T92P7D22-12 or go by the RVP number 1460-1131 The only difference i see is that on the lower right side . Mine states 25A 380 V Every other search comes up with 20A , 400V
That being said I believe i cant go wrong with this deal
Journeycat, Imnprsd, and/or others:
Did anyone install the eBay parts you mentioned: (2) T92P7D22-12 Potter & Brumfield relays with the “20A” notation in the lower right corner (when our OEM part stated “25A”? Did your AC run without problems?
I am curious if these noted 20A relays work ok, as I ordered & received and ready to install.
imnprsd, I've been reading the current irv2.com threada about SoftStart units and how they work. To me they are counter to what I understand about motor starting. IMO they may be slowly ruining a compressor motor.
What is your opinion compared to the hard start devices?
__________________ 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
Basement ac maintenance
Linear Mode
