Cummins Engine will not recrank after stopping

mackspot1 · 06-04-2016, 07:30 PM

I have an Itasca Meridian 34Y with a cummins 6.7 ISB. Over the past few weeks after stopping the engine and turning it off it will not crank. Turn the ignition and nothing. Anyone have any ideas. Called Cummins today but they are not open and we are in an area without a service center. Thanks

vsheetz · 06-04-2016, 07:52 PM

Got boost switch to tie the house and chassis batteries together? Does it make any difference? May just be chassis battery bad/going bad.

vsheetz · 06-04-2016, 07:54 PM

Frieghtliner chassis? If so, might give them a call. Got Coach-Net? They gave a tech support service.

GraySeal65 · 06-04-2016, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackspot1

after stopping the engine and turning it off it will not crank. Turn the ignition and nothing.

Sounds like a bad starter solenoid.

mackspot1 · 06-04-2016, 08:17 PM

batteries are fine. its not them. I have recently gone to the fuse links most rear compartment on the drivers side and taken out and reinstalled all the ones that are fuse link and or 5 or 10 amp fuses and then reinstalled them. it then starts. but I could not tell you why or what causes it to happen. Sometimes I think it may have to do with driving on rough pot holed roads (even freeways). I am open to all and any ideas and thank you for your replys.

jerichorick · 06-04-2016, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackspot1

I have an Itasca Meridian 34Y with a cummins 6.7 ISB. Over the past few weeks after stopping the engine and turning it off it will not crank. Turn the ignition and nothing. Anyone have any ideas. Called Cummins today but they are not open and we are in an area without a service center. Thanks

I had this problem on my first rig. Only after the engine was hot did the cranking fail to happen. Got stuck at a ma & pa fuel pump. Shut the engine down and after refueling it would not crank. Got a hook to tow mw to the shop. The internal ground in the starter had gone open. The tech put a braided strap from the front to the rear of the starter and it was fine after that. I sole the rig before I replaced the starter motor.

Rick Y

lajuene · 06-05-2016, 05:45 AM

We have had that happen a couple times and each time it was a little corrosion on one of the spade fuses in the outside fuse box under the driver seat area. Turns out there are several fuses that apply to starting the engine but one in particular needs to be cleaned with steel wool now and then.
Good luck.

Radioflyer3 · 06-05-2016, 09:04 AM

didn't read the whole thread before adding my 2 cents...

mackspot1 · 06-06-2016, 06:36 PM

thank you for the suggestion. spoke w/ them today. they are responsible for the install of the starter and solenoid etc to do with the cranking. she suggested that I check all the connects i.e.: battery disconnect, solenoid & all the battery connects to starter. Will try doing that tomorrow to see if anything loose. My biggest concern is that if I take it in the difficulty of diagnosing it. If it is periodic and unpredictable so what can be asked of them to test.

jerichorick · 06-07-2016, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mackspot1

thank you for the suggestion. spoke w/ them today. they are responsible for the install of the starter and solenoid etc to do with the cranking. she suggested that I check all the connects i.e.: battery disconnect, solenoid & all the battery connects to starter. Will try doing that tomorrow to see if anything loose. My biggest concern is that if I take it in the difficulty of diagnosing it. If it is periodic and unpredictable so what can be asked of them to test.

Here is a suggestion that often proves fruitful. Either you or a helper lay under the coach, at the starter, with a hammer. Each be in communications with a cell call or walkie talkie. While trying to crank the engine hit the starter a few times. Of course this has to be when it is failed. Even if you were to measure voltage at the starter a bad connection internally could not be proven. The thudding might find it.

Cleaning all the connections is never a bad idea.

I recently had a strange cranking issue. When I first red of your problem I didn't consider this.

I could not crank my coach when I went from the warm-up position to start with the key. But, I discovered by accident, if I rotated the key all the way to the left (ACC) and then immediately back to the cranking position the engine would start every time.

I brought the coach to a Freightliner Oasis shop. They found, after much misdirection in troubleshooting, the Allison module was not passing the neutral safety switch signal/start command to the starter solenoid. I was just inside the Allison warranty but lost on the labor. My Cornerstone extended repair insurance didn't qualify me for any assistance from them because Freightliner didn't "replace" the Allison mod. They are not a Allison certified shop. They use their neighbor who is. Bottom line though is that the coach is all better now.

To make this above story work for you, measure the voltage at the solenoid control leads while in the fail to crank situation. If you don't see voltage there you at least know the problem is back toward the key, on the other side of the transmission or the transmission.

I hope you have a good wiring diagram for the chassis.

Rick Y

mackspot1 · 06-08-2016, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Here is a suggestion that often proves fruitful. Either you or a helper lay under the coach, at the starter, with a hammer. Each be in communications with a cell call or walkie talkie. While trying to crank the engine hit the starter a few times. Of course this has to be when it is failed. Even if you were to measure voltage at the starter a bad connection internally could not be proven. The thudding might find it.

Cleaning all the connections is never a bad idea.

I recently had a strange cranking issue. When I first red of your problem I didn't consider this.

I could not crank my coach when I went from the warm-up position to start with the key. But, I discovered by accident, if I rotated the key all the way to the left (ACC) and then immediately back to the cranking position the engine would start every time.

I brought the coach to a Freightliner Oasis shop. They found, after much misdirection in troubleshooting, the Allison module was not passing the neutral safety switch signal/start command to the starter solenoid. I was just inside the Allison warranty but lost on the labor. My Cornerstone extended repair insurance didn't qualify me for any assistance from them because Freightliner didn't "replace" the Allison mod. They are not a Allison certified shop. They use their neighbor who is. Bottom line though is that the coach is all better now.

To make this above story work for you, measure the voltage at the solenoid control leads while in the fail to crank situation. If you don't see voltage there you at least know the problem is back toward the key, on the other side of the transmission or the transmission.

I hope you have a good wiring diagram for the chassis.

Rick Y

thanks Rick, when I get to a spot I can do so I will attempt your diagnosis. appreciate all the help

Jim_HiTek · 06-08-2016, 12:43 PM

I had the same problem with my '94 Cummins 5.9. It would almost always happen at the end of a long but not necessarily hot (as in ambient temp) drive. There were 4 things I typically did over 12 years of ownership that I was never quite sure ever worked, but seemed to a time or two.

1) Shift from P to 1st several times,
2) whack the starting motor with a rubber mallet,
3) whack the solenoids in the BCC with that same mallet,
4) wait it out.

Naturally, I did all the other things suggested like clean terminals, check batteries, etc. But nothing I did ever seemed to 'cure' the problem. The only thing I didn't try was using a jumper cable to make a ground between the starting motor frame and chassis ground.

Changing out the starting motor (it suck in the engaged position once so it was definitely bad) didn't fix it either.

Waiting it out seemed to be the most reliable method. Always worked. Seldom had to wait more than 15 minutes. Usually much less. I anticipated the failure whenever I parked, tried to park in a way that accommodated the issue. Never had anything but courteous response from others that I might have inconvenienced, like when at a gas station, though that didn't happen very often.