Door and Door Surround Screws -- Working Loose - Page 2

BFlinn181 · 05-14-2013, 11:18 AM

Rather than use wood inside the door to reinforce the hinge side, I'd suggest aluminum flat stock or square tubing. No future rot or splitting issues.

Wolfpack Fan · 05-14-2013, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Rather than use wood inside the door to reinforce the hinge side, I'd suggest aluminum flat stock or square tubing. No future rot or splitting issues.

Great idea! Only problem I'd see with that is you're limited in bite on the screws to the wall thickness of whatever stock you put in place. Hard wood gives you a bit more area that's holding on to the screw and if repositioning the screw comes about you can refill the hole with epoxy or something else.

Dunner · 05-14-2013, 11:05 PM

I work with metal a lot and it you put sheet metal screws every 3-4 inches, I don't see them pulling out. Even if they did, you could go to a larger screw.

FlyingT · 05-15-2013, 10:35 AM

Thanks again for all the great ideas, I was thinking more along the line of pressure treated 2x4's cut down to fit inside. They will hold up to any rot and still be easy to work with, and with all the existing screw holes I don't think they will work loose again. I want to keep this project simple stupid....lol Just don't want to add extra holes, (trying 2 keep it pleasing to the eye).

BFlinn181 · 05-15-2013, 11:33 AM

Caution on the pressure treated lumber, it has a moisture content of 19-32% and is a soft wood like pine, spruce or fir. Also the fasteners in PTL usually has to be specially coated for the chemicals used, normal fasteners can be quickly corroded. Kiln dried wood usually has a moisture content of 8-10%. I'd recommend oak or some other hardwood. Then pre-drill the holes and insert epoxy in each hole as you insert the fasteners.

FlyingT · 05-16-2013, 10:09 AM

Oh okay, thanks for the tip. How about teak would that be okay to use?

BFlinn181 · 05-16-2013, 11:05 AM

Teak is a very hard wood with a low shrink rate, but the high oil content doesn't allow glue or epoxies to bond well. If you are taking the door apart to insert teak blocks, why not use aluminum backing plates and screws with bolts? You could use Locktite on the threads or even a punch to lock the threads if you wish.