Door and Door Surround Screws -- Working Loose

AdvntureCats · 04-25-2013, 08:10 AM

I'd say I have a few screws loose, but that one's been done before...

Here's the problem -- several screws on the door surround trim, both on the door itself and on the door frame, won't stay tight. The screws are intact, not sheared off. The holes are just enlarged and mostly stripped out. It keeps the door from aligning correctly so it's harder to close, which means the kids slam it too hard, which makes the screws back out so I have to gently twist them back in... Lather, rinse, repeat.

This is on a 1992 Adventurer. I've searched the forums and seen some suggestions, such as gluing in some toothpicks, breaking them off and re-inserting the screw -- that works great on wooden construction, and should be fine for the fiberglass-over-plywood construction on a lot of RVs. Is it adequate for the Winnebago laminated wall structure? Or should I look into lining the hole with something that will work better with the Winnie's laminated foam core construction? I'm thinking the screws are really only biting into the outer thin layer of fiberglass and not much else.

Ideas / experience?

Craig_R · 04-25-2013, 08:30 AM

It sounds like there is still some amount of material left for the threads to bite on so before going so far as to drill the screw holes out for larger screws you might want to try this. Remove each screw and apply a dab of Loctite Blue Thread Locker 242 and then replace the screw. If it holds, your done. If not, you may want to drill the holes out and use larger screws and the Loctite. Loctite products are available in any good hardware store or home center.

AdvntureCats · 04-26-2013, 06:24 AM

Not sure if Loctite is quite enough. Some more examination shows that it appears the holes are worn to an oval shape after years of people leaning on the door latch handle while stepping down out of the coach. The door is resting at a slight angle in its frame because the holes for the supporting screws are worn down by pressure on the door. Lifting the bottom corner of the door aligns it -- but also releases the grip on the screws. When the door is aligned, there's very little material for the screws to bite into.

Wolfpack Fan · 04-26-2013, 06:47 AM

Might these provide a solution.

Wolfpack Fan · 04-26-2013, 06:53 AM

Or possibly these. Rivnuts or nutserts. I used these when the lower awning bracket pulled out of exterior wall and they worked great.

AdvntureCats · 04-26-2013, 09:14 AM

Hmm -- maybe those would work, or something similar. I think the screws may really only be biting on the outer fiberglass panel, and now that the hole is enlarged, all that's left is the foam part of the panel "sandwich." So I need to reinforce the whole depth of the screw hole with something that will hold, and not just crush the foam cells out of the way and loosen up again... Filling with epoxy and re-drilling the holes may be the best way, but that will take some time I don't have. The MH has to get moving in the next week, and my time has to be spent on packing up the house. I may try the old toothpick filler trick anyway; worst case is they work loose again and I try another approach. Best case, they hold. Either way, the screws stay in on the road. It's just people traffic through the door that woks them loose -- and mainly the kids doing it.

BFlinn181 · 04-26-2013, 09:43 AM

Look for an epoxy that won't eat the foam insulation. Inject it into the holes until flush. (a bit of tape over the hole until dry) Then drill out the hole and install screws.

AdvntureCats · 04-26-2013, 10:45 PM

I'm considering the epoxy method, but for now I need to get the door in shape at least temporarily; no time for the cure time and drilling until next month.

I went ahead and used the old toothpick trick -- several fitted snugly into each affected hole and broken off flush, then the screw re-inserted and tightened carefully. That got the door and frame back into alignment, and then I could adjust the strike bolt to let the door latch without needing to slam. They seem to be holding just fine so far, and with the wood driven into the holes now, there should be plenty of material there if I need to go back and use epoxy.

Now I just need to train the kids not to use the inside door handle to lean on while going down the steps so the problem doesn't come back...

99Adven · 04-30-2013, 10:11 AM

how about some JD Weld?

garykk · 04-30-2013, 11:24 AM

A better trick than tooth picks is wooden golf tees. A finish carpenter showed me this trick many years ago. Same principal, if the hole is large enough just tap in with some good glue on it and cut off flush, if not drill a little. If you get the time, I suggest enlarging the holes to get a 3/8" hardwood dowel in with some epoxy, carefully re drill to the right diameter for the screws.

Dunner · 04-30-2013, 04:46 PM

How about self tapping screws between or next to the existing ones?

Luckiest Dreamer · 04-30-2013, 05:42 PM

How about pop rivets?

AdvntureCats · 05-01-2013, 07:22 AM

It's been holding quite well for several days now. Well enough to re-adjust the latch strike post and get it to stay adjusted. Once we get parked in camp, I may back the affected screws out one by one and do the epoxy/re-drill method. Seems to be solved for now.

MSGulfCoast · 05-01-2013, 07:28 AM

Saw a satellite installer use zip-tie pieces cut to length in screw holes. Worked like a charm and probably would last longer than wood.

FlyingT · 05-12-2013, 10:37 PM

My door is doing the same thing, anyone know of a place to get replacement doors all together?

Dunner · 05-13-2013, 12:58 PM

I don't see why you can't drill right next to or halfway between the next screw and use a self tapping screw.

bruceisla · 05-13-2013, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner

I don't see why you can't drill right next to or halfway between the next screw and use a self tapping screw.

Yup !! .... me either ...

Dunner · 05-13-2013, 05:21 PM

Being El Cheapo, I replace the self-tapping ones with regular sheet metal screws. Recently, I threw away all my flat blade ones. Only use Phillips or hex head screws.

Pop-rivets might work to hold the door, but I think, over time, they would vibrate loose.

FlyingT · 05-13-2013, 11:43 PM

The door on the 1996 Winni has a foam core and I'm afraid it will just happen again. I did find doors on the net but at $400-$600 a pop, I think I'm going to try to repair mine in a week or two. The plan is to slide the door out of the aluminum frame, cut out the foam around the edges and epoxy in some real wood then reassemble. There should be plenty of material for the screws to bite into and still keep the wight down. I will take lots of photo's and will post a full material list.

garykk · 05-14-2013, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlyingT

The door on the 1996 Winni has a foam core and I'm afraid it will just happen again. I did find doors on the net but at $400-$600 a pop, I think I'm going to try to repair mine in a week or two. The plan is to slide the door out of the aluminum frame, cut out the foam around the edges and epoxy in some real wood then reassemble. There should be plenty of material for the screws to bite into and still keep the wight down. I will take lots of photo's and will post a full material list.

I did something similar to a hollow core door that the wind blew off my workshop........cut out the bad part and epoxied in some hard maple...if you glue or epoxy in some wood, I suggest you use hard maple or oak...less chance of it working loose again but you will have to drill the holes......self tapping screws may split the wood depending on the thickness...

Also be aware that some glues are not compatible with styrofoam....