Drivers side radiator?

PioneerRV · 05-31-2006, 07:19 AM

I'm new to DP motorhomes. My 2006 Meridian has a unit that looks like a radiator on the drivers side rear. it has two fans. What is the purpose of this radiator.

Don

PioneerRV · 05-31-2006, 07:19 AM

I'm new to DP motorhomes. My 2006 Meridian has a unit that looks like a radiator on the drivers side rear. it has two fans. What is the purpose of this radiator.

Don

MrTransistor · 05-31-2006, 08:03 AM

Hi Don,
According to the spec. sheet for the 2006 Meridian 34H, it comes with the CAT 350 HP rear radiator engine package so the radiator on the side with the two fans would be the condenser part of the dash Air Conditioner.

PioneerRV · 05-31-2006, 01:35 PM

Thanks, i was trying to label it something exotic like an intercooler or etc. Seems like a lot of work just for the dash air. Thanks alot.

Don

jhanan · 11-13-2007, 02:30 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MrTransistor:
Hi Don,
According to the spec. sheet for the 2006 Meridian 34H, it comes with the CAT 350 HP rear radiator engine package so the radiator on the side with the two fans would be the condenser part of the dash Air Conditioner. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Boy I had the same question!! Now this provides a relationship to why my dash AC is not good. I have never seen these 2 fans run on my coach - AND - my dash AC is just barely cooling. I will have to check that out now. Funny, I thought the 330 cat had 2 radiator's - one on the back and one on the side! I never noticed its for the Dash AC. Thank you!

Jeff.

Jeeperrmartin · 11-13-2007, 03:46 AM

I had poor dash cooling, found that both of my cooling fans for ac radiator where fried. I replaced them. It made a big difference.

I also had the air condition pump motor belt break. That stops cooling completely. What a pain to replace that.

smlranger · 11-13-2007, 03:29 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jhanan:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MrTransistor:
Hi Don,
According to the spec. sheet for the 2006 Meridian 34H, it comes with the CAT 350 HP rear radiator engine package so the radiator on the side with the two fans would be the condenser part of the dash Air Conditioner. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Boy I had the same question!! Now this provides a relationship to why my dash AC is not good. I have never seen these 2 fans run on my coach - AND - my dash AC is just barely cooling. I will have to check that out now. Funny, I thought the 330 cat had 2 radiator's - one on the back and one on the side! I never noticed its for the Dash AC. Thank you!

Jeff. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Start the rig, turn on the dash AC (max AC) and go around to the side. The fans should cycle on and off and turn freely when they cycle off.

FYI, if you need to replace one or both, Advance Auto Parts has exact replacements for a lot less than most places. They are fairly easy to replace.

rvarner · 11-13-2007, 06:41 PM

Jeff,
I would have the system recharged. My output is marginal but works.
Richard

jhanan · 01-20-2008, 12:55 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by smlranger:
Start the rig, turn on the dash AC (max AC) and go around to the side. The fans should cycle on and off and turn freely when they cycle off.

FYI, if you need to replace one or both, Advance Auto Parts has exact replacements for a lot less than most places. They are fairly easy to replace. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What is the replacement procedure? When under the coach it is unclear what the steps are - remove the fans from behind - or remove the pannel from the front 1st? My AC cools some but that fans never come on and cycle and are not seazed - they still spin. Have to fix them this winter.

jhanan · 01-20-2008, 12:55 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rvarner:
Jeff,
I would have the system recharged. My output is marginal but works.
Richard </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Richard - do your fans cycle?

Moder2 · 01-21-2008, 04:37 AM

Replacement is pretty easy.

Open the bay door right next to your condenser, you will see a angle bracket that holds the grill shut over the condenser. Take those screws out (I just remove the ones that are screwed into the condenser grill.

Look under the condensor grill, and you will see a small bracket on the far rearmost portion. Remove those 2 screws.

Now the grill should be free to swing open, it hinges at the top, just like a bay door.

Use a broom handle or other pole to prop it up, and don't force it too high or you will damage your paint, or tweak your hinges.

You will then see the two fans, and the framework that holds them in. I first fished out the connectors, and checked them with a multimeter to make sure you have power to the fans while the AC is running. If there is no power there, the fans might still be good, and your problem is elsewhere (most likely the relay).

If the fans are bad (won't spin, and they do have power to the fan when the a/c is on) Remove the bolts that hold the entire bracketing for the fan (I think there is only 4).

Once you have that all off, go to an auto parts store, and pickup the fan. I got mine at Advance, they had them on the shelf on the floor, made by imperial. About $50.00 each. They have several fans, so take yours with, but I believe it was the smallest one they had.

I also grabbed a can of flat black paint to repaint the bracket, and make things look new...

Assembly is simply the reverse. Use caution around the condenser, one slip of a screwdriver, and you will have n expensive repair if you puncture the core. And also be sure to disconnect the fans before you put your fingers near them, they might look harmless, but I am sure it would smart a bit if you got your finger in one and they unexpectedly started.

John

Moder2 · 01-21-2008, 04:39 AM

Oh,

And yes, my fans will cycle, but it is sometimes hard to tell, since they continue to spin, and startup before they are done spinning. It is best to check for power with a test light or multimeter before replacing them, but if they fans don't spin by hand, they are junk.

John

jhanan · 01-27-2008, 04:54 PM

John - I found my problem. I opened the door per your instructions - thank you - funny how my door was secured. There is only a hinge on the right top corner. Removed the screws from the left side and the ones on the bottom. But then it would not open! Why? The flanges on the left side were also secured with double-sided foam sticky tape!! And one screw was missing. After I "peeled" the door back, I had access to the fans.

Next I tested the fans - they spin fine by hand and the fans were not open circuit. So I fired up the AC system on full blast max. I noticed the condensor coil getting hot - good news (maybe I don't need a recharge). But the fans will not come on. I tested the connector for each fan and no voltage at all. So the problem is elsewhere. I noticed that on the hot loop side of the AC coming out of the dash box up front has 2 temp-sensor switches. One temp sensor is a switch for the 12volt circut. This one tested out fine and closed. By now the hot side of the AC was hot to the touch so I expected the switch to be closed and it was. This switch also goes through a relay mounted to the back of the dash box. This relay was also closed and tested out good with the volt meter. Now the second temp switch on the hot side is a *ground* switch! This switch was not closed - since this is a ground switch you will not get a volt reading, so I test the switch with ohms to see if it is closed - which it was not. So with the plug off this switch I shorted over this switch with a small wire with clips. I ran to the back and sure enough the fans had kicked on full blast! I let then run for several minutes and with my hand on the coil it was already noticably cooler. Also checked the AC inside an the air blast is colder. I removed the short wire and the fans turn off - I did this a couple times to make sure this was the failing switch.

Once I connected the ground wire plug back to the switch, the fans did stop again. So I know which switch has to be replaced now. This switch looks to me like once removed it will allow the coolant loop to evacuate. Do you or anyone have experience with removing this type of AC switch? - it looks very much like a standard auto temp switch. I did not take it off yet. Will the loop evacuate if the switch is removed?

Moder2 · 02-02-2008, 05:19 AM

jhanan,

I would imagine it will evacuate the system, but I am not sure you can avoid that. The right way to do that is to take it to an A/C shop and have it sucked down, although I know many people don't do it that way. It is not good for the environment to just vent the freon, even if it is R134a. If it were mine, I would call SCS Fridgette (the Mfg. of the system) and ask them if the switch is ported into the line, or just welded on top the line, but my guess is that it is a pressure switch, that is in the line.

SCS can ship you the part, or you can pull yours and try to get it matched up at an auto parts house. If you do decide to just let the freon vent, remember that freon is highly flammable, and it is also an expanding gas... ie gets really cold and will freeze flesh.

Most auto stores do also sell R134a depending on your local laws, you should be able to buy a recharge kit and charge it yourself. I tried to get a capacity from SCS, but they said it will vary due to the mfg installation of the system since the length of the lines varies, so it is best to find someone who has a good set of manifold gauges to refill it since you really don't know how much the system will hold, you have to fill based on pressure.

I did not call Freightliner, They might know the fill capacity.

John

gunawo · 02-02-2008, 02:21 PM

I am not absolutely sure of yours, but mine
(not a winnebago) had a "schraeder valve)
very similiar to a tire valve with a depressor
pin on it. Removing it quickly should not let enough refrigerant to escape to cause recharging.

jhanan · 02-25-2008, 08:32 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Moder2:
jhanan,
call SCS Fridgette (the Mfg. of the system)
John </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Found SCS web site and number. I have not yet removed the part. I'm worried the it will evacuate the system and yes, I don't want it to vent into the air.

Anyone out there charge there system of this timeframe - how can you tell if it is using R134a or not?

Also, I cannot find this switch on the Winny wiring diagram for the 01 Itasca. The bottom of page 3 (doc 135630.pdf) shows Yel/Yel A/C Evap Pressure Switch. OK, so I'm assuming this is the Yel/Yel switch I found is the power side switch on found on the A/C loop (the one this working). Or is it?

I found the cooling fans on doc 136412.pdf, p2. But that's it - the rest in this doc is just 12v house wiring. Will call SCS and see if they know which part this is and what is involved in replacing it. Thanks for comments.

Jeff.

jhanan · 03-03-2008, 06:45 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jhanan:
I have not yet removed the part. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No need to change the switch! I found out this is a pressure switch. My system was low on fluid - measured at 5psi. I charged the system with an "RV" size canister and a gage and was able to get the system up to 30psi. Upon inpection, the cooling fans now kick on momentarily and run for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shut off power and spin down. When only 5psi was in the system, that pressure switch would never close. According to the book, the system should hold 45psi of fluid, measured on the cold side. I tried several times to get more in with the large can I had purchased - more was left in the can, but I could never get more than 30psi in the system.

rmeusborn · 09-25-2013, 07:03 AM

Our 04 Meridian 39K condenser fans won't run. AC cools OK on the road, but standing not so good. Fan motors are good, relay is good, but no 12V, 25A getting to the relay. Could there be a pressure switch between the 25A breaker & the relay socket?