Engine Access Door

Poppop · 03-08-2006, 02:37 PM

Hello Friends , It has been awhile since I have posted ,or been on the road.
I hope to be able to travel soon .
Washing and waxing with help this weekend.
I thought all was ready to travel, untill I tried to raise the engine hatch.
Loose again, I keep an eye on this door it has been reglued three times . Once at factory service and twice at dealers.
Generator door almost fell off, dealer tried to reglue it w/o success.The factory had to send a replacement.
I have made sure these doors have been handled very carefully.
If anyone has found a solution to this problem that too many have had I would appriciate the help.
I am ready to repair this myself. I have traveled too many miles to dealers and still have the problem.
Someone mentioned C-7 glue available at hardware stores.
Another post said the blue 3M tape was better than Duct tape. I will have a roll in my tool box before I leave.
I have found solutions to several problems here at irv2, and am hopeful this one also.
Thanks your friend and fellow irv2 traveler,
Jake

Poppop · 03-08-2006, 02:37 PM

Hello Friends , It has been awhile since I have posted ,or been on the road.
I hope to be able to travel soon .
Washing and waxing with help this weekend.
I thought all was ready to travel, untill I tried to raise the engine hatch.
Loose again, I keep an eye on this door it has been reglued three times . Once at factory service and twice at dealers.
Generator door almost fell off, dealer tried to reglue it w/o success.The factory had to send a replacement.
I have made sure these doors have been handled very carefully.
If anyone has found a solution to this problem that too many have had I would appriciate the help.
I am ready to repair this myself. I have traveled too many miles to dealers and still have the problem.
Someone mentioned C-7 glue available at hardware stores.
Another post said the blue 3M tape was better than Duct tape. I will have a roll in my tool box before I leave.
I have found solutions to several problems here at irv2, and am hopeful this one also.
Thanks your friend and fellow irv2 traveler,
Jake

AFChap · 03-08-2006, 03:08 PM

I recently had mine done at my selling dealer. They used SMC DURAMIX 4050. It is a two-part epoxy, and is glossy black after application. ...runs around $45 a tube I believe. I think they used one tube there, and one on my rear bumper that was loose. They did emphasize that the area must be very well cleaned for it to work, so hopefully they know what they were doing. I haven't had it back long enough to see how well it is going to work. If it comes loose again, I will probably go to a body shop that has experience working with fiberglass - OR - I will attach it with bolts or pop-rivets to the metal door frame. (note how all the basement compartment door fiberglass skins are pop riveted to the frames along the bottom lip...)

BugSlayer · 03-08-2006, 05:30 PM

Guys, I am starting to see this same problem on the front generator door of my '05 Journey. I was thinking of using either clear silicon sealer or a two part epoxy called JB Weld. I have used silicon to seal exhaust pipes on a Harley Davidson and JB Weld to repair a gas tank so I know they have some unorthodox applications! Have you thought about trying either of those? If there is a reason they won't work, save me from myself

and let me know!

kellysrv · 03-09-2006, 12:21 PM

I had the problem of loose engine access door and fixed it by first removing and cleaning the mating surfaces well with adhesive remover solvent then applied 2 part epoxy, J-B Industro-Weld. I put 4 cable ties to hold the assembly together until the epoxy cured. After it cured I removed 2 of the cable ties then became pessimistic about the longevity of the repair and decided to leave 2 small cable ties holding the assembly just in case it breaks loose then I won't lose the door. The cable ties are black and barely noticable against the dark color of "full body paint".

Okie · 03-09-2006, 03:54 PM

My engine door came off while traveling couple summers ago, while in Vermont....I always have a drill and bits with me, so I drilled thru the fiberglass after lining up with the metal of the hinge on the inside,,,then threaded self tapping screws thru that,,,2 on each side...before tightening,,,I applied two part epoxy to the inside of the fiberglass after cleaning....this has held with no problems since...I recently got touch up paint from winnie and will get around to covering the heads of the 4 screws so they match the door color...should the gennie door come loose,,,I will do the same to it..

n2xyz · 10-13-2006, 06:13 PM

'02 Sightseer 30B While traveling in Wyoming this spring, I had a front tire out of balance. It took it's toll on engine hood door. I found it during a lunch break and doing a walk around. Hood had almost fell off. Of coars it was a Saturday afternoon. Well I did what any NASCAR Pit Chief would do, reached for the Duct Tap.
******don't leave with out the Duct Tap*******

When back home, I cleaned the area and applied 3M marine Adhesive sealant 5200. Also installed four 12-24 oaval stainless machine screws, washers for oval head, and flat washers and lock nuts. Over 2,000 miles and stil holding.