Entry door handle broken

[LeftyLawdawg]

I have a 2006 journey 39k. The entry door lock failed and cannot be opened from the outside. Also, the remote keyless function is inoperative. I cannot get into the Motorhome and am looking at jimmying a window for entry. I am currently on the road in Arizona. Once I get in, is there a direct replacement part for the latch assembly and the remote keyless entry system? Where can I get them if available?

[LeftyLawdawg]

Well, my son was able to get a window open and hoisted my granddaughter inside. Yay! The inside hanle worksnd will open the door. However, the outside handle seems completely disconnected from the latching system and just flops around. I'm thinking it will take a whole new latch to fix this and something more to fix the keyless entry system.

Is this a DIY project or a dealer project. I am new to this Motorhome and this is my first trip in it. All suggestions are welcome.

[KCFDCapt]

I have found for those who have a Keyless Entry System with Cargo Locks in your Winnebago/Itasca made by SCS/Frigette take note. If you have one or more remotes, like we do, that no longer work, or more likely, "eat" batteries there is hope

I've found an inexpensive replacement Remote for the one used in our 2007 ITASCA Meridian 39K (FCC ID G571TX318) that WORKS (once you reprogram your existing receiver - simple to do). Best news is that it only costs $39.99 + S/H, with a 2 Yr Warranty, from Remotes and Keys (Keyless Entry Remotes, Car Remote Replacements, Key Fobs, Keys, &more! Part # 4687E). It is a "Clone of Factory Keyless Entry Remote [clone of FCC: G57ITX318, Honda: 2-91309-401-0]".

The URL for the exact P/N I used is: https://www.remotesandkeys.com/Produ...4687E&CartID=1

If the FCC ID on your remote MATCHES EXACTLY (FCC ID G571TX318) this one works just fine. If you have a different FCC ID shown on the remote "fob" there is a place on this web page to input the ID (e.g. G571TX318) to hopefully find a compatible remote.

It is also available from Remotes Unlimited, PN 317-2667, at a slightly higher price and with only a 90 day warranty. RemotesUnlimited.com

[NOTE, I'm not associated with either of these entities.]

[LeftyLawdawg]

Thanks KCFDCapt,
Thank you for the information. My key says Trimark on it so I'm thinking I have the later system. But as I move forward with investigation and repair, I will keep it in mind.

In thinking this over, I remember the electronic lock making some strange buzzing noise the last time I locked it. I'm wondering if the locking selenoid has jammed and disconnected the handle from the release mechanism. Do you know if this is possible? If so, is there a method for getting to the electronic selenoid to release it?

[KCFDCapt]

The plunger on the solenoid will hang up due to dirt on the plunger. Some can be disassembled but I would spray the unit with electric contact cleaner first to see if it will free up. You may save yourself some time with the repair.

[LeftyLawdawg]

Thanks. I'll try that in the morning.

[skigramp]

Our Journey is a couple of years older than yours (and without electric locks).

Our entry door latch became unpredictable a few years ago. I ordered a new lock from Lichtsinn's .. a good friend and I managed to remove the old lock and install the new one.

It was rather tricky ... the directions say that you need a THIN WALLED socket ... we did not have one ... we managed to manipulate the lock and turn the required nut with an end wrench ... and then install ... it has worked fine since.

NOTE: The old "Night latch" key matched the compartments ... the new one does not ... so I have an additional key for the rig now. The keys are TRI-MARK so most locksmiths have the correct blanks to cut you additional keys.

[LeftyLawdawg]

So I took the lock apart. I had to take off all the interior plastic to get to the electric solenoid. Two separate problems: the solenoid is toast (the plunger moves by hand, but not electrically); the exterior handle has a loose/worn lower hinge pin which also has the interconnecting actuator for the inside handle. I was able to restake the hinge pin and re-contour (aka bend) the interconnect lever to mesh nicely with the inside handle. I found a 3/8 drive 12 point snap on deep socket fit the hole in the edge of the door in order to disassemble/reassemble/adjust the lock.
I at least have a properly operating manual locking handle. I have a call in to TriMark for the electronics portion of the repair. So, if I don't go any farther I can live with what I have for now until I can get the keyless entry portion fixed. Thanks for the suggestions. I will keep them in mind for future reference.

[DancinCampers]

Check your electrical connectors on the door and door frame for any corrosion. Mine have failed several times.

[KCFDCapt]

Thanks for reporting on what you found. It helps for others in the future with similar problems.

[LeftyLawdawg]

It was indeed the connectors on the door and frame. I hit them with a ScotchBrite pad and all is working normally. Thanks for the tip DancinCampers. Nick at TriMark sent me a link to the manual for my system. It turns out is is an aftermarket installation to replace the original system that went out of business in 2009 and had lots of problems.

Also, a side note on adjusting the lock release nut, there is a happy medium to the adjustment. Too tight and you have a nice short throw release, but it moves the contact surface of the inner handle past the locking lever and the door will not lock when you move the lock lever into position. Adjusted too loose and the outer door cam will not contact the inner handle release and you will not be able to open the door from the outside, only the inside. It took me a little bit of playing with the adjustment to get it right and centered enough in the usable range to assure myself the adjustment will be good for a fairly long time. I plan to keep the appropriate tools onboard to make adjustments as necessary in the future.