Entry door repair

Robert Rice · 04-07-2010, 01:17 PM

Last year the wind grabbed the entry door of my 02 Journey and sprung it. I will still open and shut, but it makes a loud popping noise when it goes past what was the stopping point. I have purchased the entire repair kit for the door which includes everything involved with the latch. Alas it comes with no instructions, so I would certainly appreciate any and all help and advice from those of you that have already tackled this particular repair.

cbeierl · 04-07-2010, 02:24 PM

Here's an earlier posting that might be helpful: Entry door problem . I would expect that you have the same mechanism. I replaced the everything except the plastic guide block (at the edge of the door) on mine. It was pretty straightforward, but it looked like replacing the guide block might be a bit harder--mine was OK so I didn't try that.

KIX · 04-07-2010, 04:29 PM

After you remove the inner plastic door liner (be careful) it will be pretty obvious. I had the same issue but added some rubber "cushion" material so that it will be much more difficult to spring the hinges again. Once you can seethe mechanism you will easily see how to replace it or how to "beef" it up.

AFChap · 04-08-2010, 03:17 PM

I just received the kit in the mail ...remarked to the DW when I opened it that it is one of the few RV items I have purchased that comes with no instructions whatsoever. The wind is blowing pretty good here in Texas now so I plan to wait until I have a calm day to work on the door.

Roadking · 04-11-2010, 08:33 PM

Robert: Take the plastic cover off the door by removing about a dozen screws. Be careful so as not to allow it to bend else it may break. Carefully pull back the black plastic covering material from the sticky glue. The door stop retainer is near the hinge side and should be clearly obvious. I beefed mine up using additional metal back stop materials. There is a roll pin that holds the arm in the slide. IT should be obvious how to replace and rebuild it.

Robert Rice · 04-13-2010, 01:48 PM

Okay the repair / replacement is complete. Replacement is straight forward and relatively simple.
The main problem was the main rod was bent near the end of the door next to the hinges. The plastic bracket that fits very snugly just inside the door frame was cracked and broken by the bent rod and replaced. The door now does not open a full 90 degrees like it did before the damage, but I think it will increase this angle as it wears. The VERY ANNOYING popping noise that I was experiencing is now gone. The door angle can be increased by removing the rubber bushing on the main rod/shaft. I am now waiting for the D/W to pass judgment and decide if she is happy with the door as it is, or if I need to remove the rubber bushing. I hope you-all find this helpful

cbeierl · 04-13-2010, 03:44 PM

Hi Robert,

My door now rests opens slightly less than 90deg as well after replacing the stop mechanism. I have not found it to be a problem.

AFChap · 04-14-2010, 12:48 PM

Got mine put on this morning ...as indicated, the door now opens less than 90 degrees whereas before it opened much more than 90. I imagine we'll get used to it. My strap was badly bent, the plastic piece badly grooved, the rubber bumper split, the metal plate on top of the bumper badly bent, and the allen head guide bolt at the end of the strap was worn totally flat on one side. It does work so much smoother now, and no metal on metal scraping and popping noises.

Before I put the cover back on the door, I'm going to see if I can find some styrofoam or similar insulation sheets that I can cut to size and put into the hollows of the door. Surely that would help weatherize things a bit.

cbeierl · 04-14-2010, 12:56 PM

My 2005 came with insulation in the door already.

KIX · 04-14-2010, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFChap

Before I put the cover back on the door, I'm going to see if I can find some styrofoam or similar insulation sheets that I can cut to size and put into the hollows of the door. Surely that would help weatherize things a bit.

Home Depot and probably Lowe's has styrofoam sheets approx 12" x 36" x 3/4", 4 sheets to a package.

Roadking · 04-14-2010, 07:30 PM

AFCHAP: Good idea on the insulation. I bought a 2ft by 8ft sheet of 1inch thick heavy stryofoam from Home depot and cut it to fit in the various door areas. There were a few small areas that I filled with a can of spray insulation/hole filler. THe door is much more solid and certainly warmer. Now if I could do something with the remainder of the front cockpit area that has no insulation.

AFChap · 04-16-2010, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Lowe's has styrofoam sheets approx 12" x 36" x 3/4", 4 sheets to a package

Happened by a Home Depot today while returning from somewhere else ...found styrofoam sheets apx 3/4 x 14 1/2 x 48 six to a package. I used 1 1/2 sheets plus some spray foam insulation for the bottom area I could not get inside with the sheets. I'm sure it will help ...maybe I can figure out a good place to "store" the remaining 4 1/2 sheets...

bill jones · 04-17-2010, 12:33 PM

Hey Paul, how about gluing some of the stuff underneath the floor of your slide-out. The floor of mine always gets cold.