Fiberglass Roof Maintenance

[greyeagleb]

Just past my 1 year anniversary on my Winnebago Sightseer and I was doing the whole wash/wax to restore the luster. I scrubbed the roof and got it looking great too, but was wondering what I could put on the roof to help it maintain the roof and prevent the fiberglass from breaking down and streaking the sides? I saw several threads on rubber roofs, but not fiberglass.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill
2013 Sightseer 35G
2007 Jeep GC Tow

[FleetMan]

I use the same car wax/polish on the fiberglass roof as I do on the sides. Many people use a heavy duty floor wax like Red Max pro or Zep.

[HerbZilla]

Same here just a good washing and then wax it.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by greyeagleb

Just past my 1 year anniversary on my Winnebago Sightseer and I was doing the whole wash/wax to restore the luster. I scrubbed the roof and got it looking great too, but was wondering what I could put on the roof to help it maintain the roof and prevent the fiberglass from breaking down and streaking the sides? I saw several threads on rubber roofs, but not fiberglass.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill
2013 Sightseer 35G
2007 Jeep GC Tow

Bill,
Not many RVer guys will goof around with the roof. It's too much work for them and, some just don't like climbing on the ladder to get up there. Anyway, I'm one that's put a bit of effort into keeping that roof looking almost as good as the sides of the coach. I too got up there and scrubbed it with good soap and water and, even some cleanser to get it all the oxidation off. Then, because it had multiple spots of silicone trampled all over it because of the air heads that installed many of the roof components, I had to literally scrape all them off with a steel scraper.

Then, out came the Dewalt D-200 buffer. That's the one that the pros use for rubbing out paint jobs on cars. Not the cheezy small random orbital ones. I used a cutting compound at first then, a polishing compound. Both by 3M. Once that was done, a wax coat was done. The entire process took me about three days 'cause it was warm and, I worked for a while then, took a break, then worked, break etc.

But, in the end, it was all worth it. I'm not a real fan of putting floor wax like Zep or, Red Max Pro on my roof. I'd just rather it be naturally shiny with the auto wax I use. It's a preference thing. Take a look at the pics to see it's something you'd like to tackle. Good luck. By the way, the lines you see in the roof are reflections of the tubing used for the backbone of the cover that the RV is sitting under. There's that much shine to that roof.
Scott

[macnut]

I wash and apply 303 on my roof twice a year. Almost three years later it looks new.

[wildtoad]

It is best to do as you have already done. Start by giving it a good wash. Then most any spray on wipe off wax/protectant will be good. The use of a product with uv protection is best. I would not use the floor wax products unless you already have uv damage. I have used the floor wax products on the sides and end caps of my mh with great results, but it was not in great shape.

[ghutch]

I applied Zep when my MH was new and I like the ease of keeping the roof clean. After a season of use, I just mop it like a floor, and it's clean again. Two coats over 2 days, to a clean roof and you are done. Be sure the roof is squeaky clean before applying.

[slider1156]

Good stuff in this post, I am a big dude 6' 4" about 280 lbs, How much weight can the roof hold? My wife goes up there she's about 125 lbs and has no issue. I don't go up there because i am afraid i might stress-break something. Any idea on the weight capicity of the roof?

[Dr4Film]

I got tired of the oxidation and white streaks on the sides of the coach so I hired a local painter and had him apply an Ultra-Tuff Coat to my fiberglass roof.

No more oxidation or white streaks. I only get dirt streaks now.

I don't have to scrub wax and polish again and again and again.

Pretty well maintenance free except for a light washing about 3 times a year.

See my Ultra-Tuff Coat Thread with photos.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by slider1156

Good stuff in this post, I am a big dude 6' 4" about 280 lbs, How much weight can the roof hold? My wife goes up there she's about 125 lbs and has no issue. I don't go up there because i am afraid i might stress-break something. Any idea on the weight capicity of the roof?

Well "Big Dude", I'm 6' 2" and, hover around 240 and, I get up there all the time and as you can see in my pics, I did what's needed to really make it nice. And, there's plenty of weight carrying capability up there. I don't think I'd want to tap dance (even if I could) up there or, hold any parties but, just for general walking around and washing, waxing, maintenance etc. you and the top of the coach, will be just fine.

I don't like putting that much strain on the ladder back there so, I use my 10' Dewalt fiberglass A-frame ladder to get me as high as possible than, step over to the highest rung on the coach ladder.
Scott

[Doggy Daddy]

Check out coating the roof with EPDM. Lots of advantages. 10 year warranty.
EPDM Coatings - Liquid EPDM Rubber Roof Coatings For Roof Leaks

[bandirector]

This is going to sound preachy but I'm sorry in that I can not agree with the direction and recommendations that are being suggested in this thread. While individually I'm all for doing whatever you want! To recommend to those though that may have little or no experience with RVs to wax their roofs, is not something I can stand by and not interject on.

IMHO it is dangerous to wax your roof. Working on the roof to fix or adjust something is dangerous enough and I think putting wax on it will be the last thing you will think about when you fall off it and injure yourself or worse. I'm sorry folks I feel this is bad advise. It will no doubt be slick as snot after you do this and heaven help you if you crawl up there with some moisture on it. You know folks, there is a reason that RV shops and manufacturers use rigging when their technicians are working on the roofs.

As for the runoff from the roofs, I wax my coach regularly...on the sides. This takes all the chalking off and it looks beautiful. Then when I need to get up on the roof in some far flung campground because of the antennae or awning or roof vent or heaven knows what - I won't feel like I'm going to fall off.

It is vitally important that you get up on your roof on a regular basis (or better yet pay someone to do it) to check on the seams around the edges and where vents, skylights, air conditioners, lights, antennas, and other items that pass through it. I'm not afraid to crawl up on my coach's roof and do it regularly to maintain it. Much damage has been done to RV(s) due to lack of attention to these points of entry for moisture. Often you will not know it until water has done its damage. This becomes especially important after the first half dozen years of ownership, however I've heard of more then a few newer RVs that just didn't have the sealant applied correctly and the damage due to delamination was unpleasant to have fixed.

Be sure when applying sealant that you use the correct type as specified by the manufacturer. The wrong type will not only not seal correctly, but can damage your coach and require complete removal and cleaning before someone can then apply the correct material.

Thanks for hearing me out.

[majfrizz]

I get up on the roof and make it an all day project. between checking all the seals, silicone, and connection. I finish up by a good wash with the same Rv soap I use on the side. I try and wash it at least twice a year and give it a good wax job once a year. On my other coach I used a professional buffer, but i ended up switching back to doing it all by hand. It does not make it so slick that you cannot walk on it safely.

[Firebug5]

I ran out of time last fall due to an illness, so after washing the roof I simply used Mop-n-Glo after a friend told me about it. Still looks good, just hoping it does not yellow. I have never used Aerospace-303 on the roof, but I think it would work.

However, like Scott (FIRE UP) stated, I prefer to do it exactly as he does. Nothing beats a real wax job, unless of course somebody else does it for you! Nah, I like cleaning and waxing all of my stuff on my own. It does get slippery while wet, and I tie the hose to the rear ladder to keep it from falling off. Once you get her done right one time, it is easy to just wash and do a quick wax once or twice a year.

Bruce

[brabono]

If the roof is slippery after zep, etc. roll a carpet runner down the middle to walk on. Where there's a will there's a way

[Hikerdogs]

We use 303 Protectant on both the roof and the ends of the slides. It was recommended by a Winnebago rep doing a seminar at the 2014 GNR. The main reason for using it on the slides is to minimize the friction when extending or retracting them.


According to the rep Winnebago did tests on the new Schwintec slides before and after applying the treatment. The motors had a lower amperage draw after applying the 303. Given the troubles Winnebago has had with this system on the full wall slides I'll do whatever I can to minimize the possibility of problems.


In addition to applying 303 to the slides I lube them regularly with CRC Power Lube with PTFE as Winnebago recommends. If you're interested in this product be advised there are several Power Lube formulas. The older ones come in a red and white can and do not contain PTFE. The newer version comes in a green and white can and clearly states it contains PTFE.


Here's a link to a picture of what the newer generation can looks like:
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Industrial.../dp/B000P1E7ZS

[macnut]

Hiker dogs, I find it hard to find the right place to lube the schwintek slides. Any tips?

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by macnut

I wash and apply 303 on my roof twice a year. Almost three years later it looks new.

That's all I did with the Brite Tek on our previous MH. The Magna has a fiberglass roof and I'll do the same with it.

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by macnut

Hiker dogs, I find it hard to find the right place to lube the schwintek slides. Any tips?

Here's a link to a previous thread on the subject. It has a video for lubing the slides specific to Winnebago products.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f281/lubr...ut-197565.html

Note in the video how the tip of the application tube is bent slightly. It makes hitting the coupling behind the seal much easier. If you use the Power Lube with PTFE shake the can well before spraying. You'll probably get a little of the lube on the painted surfaces. No big deal. Just wipe it off with a paper towel.

[macnut]

Thanks!!