Front cap corner separation

AFChap · 12-30-2007, 02:15 PM

I recall a discussion some time ago about front cap separation from the motorhome at the corner of the cap on the driver's side. Is anyone who had that problem on the list? ...and what was your resolution?

In tracing a water leak, I have found the rear corner of the front cap on my coach pulled away from the sidewall apx 1/8 to 1/4" for about 6 - 8" from the rear of the cap forward. I am sending an email to Winnebago Owner Relations, but wondered what solution others found earlier?

In tracing the leak, I also removed the wood strip across the front of the ceiling and pulled the inner roof layer on the cap down so I could see inside that area. On the driver's side there is a screw through a metal bracket into the cap area. On the driver's side on my coach, that screw is nowhere near all the way in. It appears that screw helps secure the cap to the roof. Can anyone add more information about the screw??

AFChap · 12-30-2007, 02:15 PM

I recall a discussion some time ago about front cap separation from the motorhome at the corner of the cap on the driver's side. Is anyone who had that problem on the list? ...and what was your resolution?

In tracing a water leak, I have found the rear corner of the front cap on my coach pulled away from the sidewall apx 1/8 to 1/4" for about 6 - 8" from the rear of the cap forward. I am sending an email to Winnebago Owner Relations, but wondered what solution others found earlier?

In tracing the leak, I also removed the wood strip across the front of the ceiling and pulled the inner roof layer on the cap down so I could see inside that area. On the driver's side there is a screw through a metal bracket into the cap area. On the driver's side on my coach, that screw is nowhere near all the way in. It appears that screw helps secure the cap to the roof. Can anyone add more information about the screw??

Pusherman · 12-31-2007, 07:29 AM

Here is a thread which discusses front cap separation.

tomsm · 12-31-2007, 09:32 AM

Paul, I had the problem and it was corrected at the factory as good will. See the link provided by Don for details...

BUCKAROO · 12-31-2007, 02:05 PM

HAS NOT HAPPEN TO MINE, HOW EVER IT DID HAPPEN TO SOMEONE I KNOW

AFChap · 01-03-2008, 02:05 PM

The thread suggested has some helpful discussion and pics. I think I like the idea of rivets better than screws. I'm still deciding whether to take this on now, or to caulk the open areas and deal with fixing the separation later (it's rather chilly even here in Alabama right now!!)

I talked with Winnebago today about how to do the repair. It sounds like this problem could be related to the generator and engine access doors that come unglued, as the cap ALSO is glued to the metal structure members inside the walls!

One "solution" is to totally remove the overhead cabinet above the driver to get into the ceiling/wall to re-glue the cap to the metal, if that in fact is what has come loose. Another is to find the metal inside the wall and put screws through the wall into the metal strips. Another is to do screws or rivets as pictured on the other thread.

Being interested in rivets, the tech I talked with suggested I find what he called "expanding" rivets -- having an extra large head surface on the inside end after installation. I cannot find something like this on google (the only "expanding" rivets I found are plastic, those things that hold car body panels together) ...does anyone know a more technical/proper name for this type of aluminum pop-rivet??

Also, someone who has done the repair, what length of rivets did you use?? The tech estimated the thickness of two layers of fiberglass and the thin wood on the inner surface of the sidewall would be 3/16 to 1/4 in. Does that sound about right?

Paul ... fulltimin', currently at Montgomery AL
'03 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40e
'00 Honda Odyssey toad
KE5LXU, Escapees, FMCA, SMART, WIT
http://afchap.home.mindspring.com

John_Canfield · 01-03-2008, 02:18 PM

Paul - here is a good selection of different rivet types. Have you considered letting the factory do the repair?

AFChap · 01-03-2008, 03:00 PM

That "klamptight" rivet look like a good one. Which one of those is what I know as a "pop-rivet"? Prior to this, I think I have bought all my pop-rivets at AutoZone!!

As for the factory doing the repair, I like that idea, but Iowa isn't on my travel plan until about next July... I could go to a dealer, but in my experience, a dealer would likely do a job equal to or less so than what I would do... Does anyone know someone in the Mobile or Pensacola areas that would no doubt do a good job?? I could caulk it up for now to prevent leaks, and have the "real" repair done sometime in the next month!

SteveG · 01-03-2008, 04:37 PM

During my repair research I was told that the factory repair was "screws." Possibly they make the determination of the repair type when they evaulate the damage. The tech I talked with was not particularly helpful in this regard but I did not push it.

So a call asking how W would repair it might or might not yield helpful results. After all, I was the guy the help desk tech told to fill my hydraulic oil tank with a syringe rather then unscrewing the step and just pouring it in. I am thinking the helpfulness of the response depends on who answers the phone.

AFChap · 01-03-2008, 05:24 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">the factory repair was "screws." </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I suspect screws would be the "quick & easy" for-now solution. What I am concerned about with screws is whether or not they will hold for the long haul. Screws in metal I like ...screws in fiberglass I am not so comfortable with. I don't plan of trading this MH off soon, so want something that will last.

SteveG · 01-03-2008, 05:37 PM

Maybe someone with factory experience can tell us if it is possible to call the service department and ask a service manager how he would repair it. That would at least give you an opprotunity to ask someone who actually does the work about the particulars of each method. Wish I had thought of that during my own research.

Tom N · 01-03-2008, 05:54 PM

Search "blind rivets" at http://www.mcmaster.com/

-Tom

tomsm · 01-03-2008, 06:04 PM

Paul - in my factory repair with screws, they used a screw with a wide, flat head. The stress on the fiberglass is spread over a large area. The heads of my screws are about as wide as the washers that Steve used under his screws. The tech told me the screws go into the metal that the cap was originally "glued" to, so all the holding is done in metal.

I don't know the proper name for the screw, but if you look at it from the side, it looks like a small headed screw with about a 1/2" washer under it - except it's all one piece. Kind of a screw with a built-in washer...

I may be proven wrong in the long run, but the "fix" looks much stronger and longer lasting than the original construction.

AFChap · 01-04-2008, 08:25 PM

Tom N ...what is that strange round bulge along the top rear of your cap???

Well guys, thanks for all the input on this one.

I finally got a couple of hours today to take a really close look at problem. I removed all the separated caulk (95% clear silicone plus some black silicone underneath at the corner itself). From the amount of caulk I pulled out, it is very obvious this is not a new situation. I've had various dealers in my travels, and the factory in the summer of 2006, check/re-do the caulk, and they apparently have applied generous amounts of caulk here to close the gap. As I think I mentioned, from the type and appearance of the caulk, the last one that did the work obviously skipped the area from the air horns down to the cap corner and around the bottom of the corner.

After removing the caulk for a good look, frankly, I doubt the corner can EVER be pulled in as tight as the one shown in other thread here. I have at least a 1/4" gap all the way to the front of the coach, and it is considerably wider at the corner itself and in the start of the roof curve. As we are planning to go to GNR this year, I believe what I will do is caulk it good for now, keep an eye on it, and have the factory deal with it in July. Another option would be to have a dealer do it, but the one I talked with about it suggested the problem was "heads popping off the screws that secure the sidewall. Just pull out the molding and take a look." That was supposedly a Winnebago/Itasca dealer, but the assistant svc manager I emailed with apparently isn't thinking Winnebago. I've had very little luck finding dealer service depts with a level of competence that makes me feel good.

While I had the big ladder out, I checked the passenger side cap corner closely and found I cannot see it below the awning rail due to the entry door awning. It appears to be pretty tight up the roof curve, and I suspect if it has any inclination to pull out, the awning will prevent it from moving! ...maybe what I need is to have an awning installed over the driver's side window!!

See some pics I took of it with and without caulk at http://www.mindspring.com/~afchap/RVCapCorner.htm

John_Canfield · 01-05-2008, 04:19 AM

Paul - the very aft/top corner (driver's side) of my cap was turned up some (as in not lying flat against its mating surface) when my coach was brand new. I noticed it almost immediately but never bothered to complain about it. At any rate, we have no leaks so I will continue to ignore the way it looks.

I think you have the best plan for dealing with yours. We're going to try to do the GNR this year, so maybe we can saw howdy.

SMIES · 01-05-2008, 05:03 AM

I had the same problem with my 05 Vectra after 9 months. We were at the factory for other service work andthey repaired it and then installed a screw, which was painted to match the coach, at my request. I had them place one on the right side also. That was two years and 20,000 miles ago. I am happy to report no problems since.

Randy Chesnutt · 01-05-2008, 08:12 AM

AF Chap, This is a problem that all the caps have. I go to the factory ralley ever year. This problem I started working with them on two years ago I think. By putting a screw on the corner do solve the problem. There is a peace of matel in the wall where you put the screw. I used a #12-1 S.S screw. If you look out the new coaches you will see that the factory are putting the screw in

AFChap · 01-05-2008, 03:06 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">We're going to try to do the GNR this year, so maybe we can saw howdy. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

John ...it would be good to meet you at GNR. We will be in the MilWIT rows near the central bathhouse. In 2006, we were very close to it.

I guess it is comforting to know this is a "normal" problem ...but not much. I have a heck of a gap in mine!! ...but filled it with silicone this afternoon.

I also drilled a small home in the inner cap ceiling to get a screwdriver to the loose screw inside the ceiling. (you can see that screw in the pics at the link I posted on my earlier message). I was able to pull it up tight, and the hole won't likely be noticed by anyone but me.