Generator clicking when I go to start it.

[Steve_n_Sam]

Went by my RV this morning to start the generator and do a few things. Only made a clicking sound like a dead battery. I had started it a couple of days ago with no issues. Saw no reason for the battery run down, was in disconnect mode.
Anyway to get it running again to charge batteries or any recommendations would be appreciated. "Battery Boost" only works from house battery to engine correct?
Will driving the RV charge the house batteries?

[tommyd]

Mine did that yesterday. My wife turned off the auxillary battery switch while trying to shut the auto-stair function off. Just flipped it back on and it cranked right over.

[Steve_n_Sam]

checked all of that, that's not it, but thanks. I'm hoping for something that simple.

[WinnieView]

Originally Posted by Steve_n_Sam

Went by my RV this morning to start the generator and do a few things. Only made a clicking sound like a dead battery. I had started it a couple of days ago with no issues. Saw no reason for the battery run down, was in disconnect mode.
Anyway to get it running again to charge batteries or any recommendations would be appreciated. "Battery Boost" only works from house battery to engine correct?
Will driving the RV charge the house batteries?

Most "Battery Boost" circuits work in both directions.

[bobmac]

Caused by low voltage on your house batteries that start the generator. Use the boost switch or put a charger on the house batteries. They were probably low when you started previously and knocked them down further. Best long term solution to insure your batteries are up is to put 100-200 watts of solar on the roof. My batteries are in their 6th year of service. Good luck,

[Oldchinahand]

Most likely discharged coach batteries. Almost certain if genset starts when main engine is running.

Hopefully not so discharged they cannot recover.

Yes, coach batteries charge when main engine is running, but may take several hours.

Just because you have it in disconnect mode doesn't ensure there is not some level of parasitic draw - shorted wire, etc.

If you do not have a multimeter, they are invaluable tools for your RV. These days a decent one comes in well under $20. (Free, with a Harbor Freight coupon) You can read your battery voltage and even DC current (for parasitic draw).

Good hunting!

Fair Winds and Following Seas

[n0ukf]

This summer the previously-running generator in my '97 Adventurer suddenly would no longer start, I only heard some clicking of relays. When we finally pulled it out to check and replace the starter (mounted on the back side), I found that where the starter mated to the engine the aluminum had corroded, leaving white deposits that wouldn't conduct enough to ground the starter to crank it over. Just cleaning this up (and adding a thin coat of oil to keep it dry) should have been enough but we replaced the starter anyway for just $30.

[robval1987]

You definitely have low batteris if all your getting is a clicking sound as you attempt to start the generator, use jumper cables (or jump box), or just start the rv (main engine) and let it idle for a bit then start the generator as normal, don't forget to prime the generator as this will help it to start a little easier. Then allow both to run and charge up those house batteries or you can always plug it into shore power and allow the batteries to charge that way then start generator.

[BobC]

Low battery voltage should be easy to check out and eliminate if OK.

A bad ground connection, as described by n0ukf would decrease the available voltage and cause clicking just like a low battery.

[Steve_n_Sam]

Thank you all for your responses. In a brief update: I have started the genset by running the engine to recharge the battery. Something still doesn't feel quite right as the battery drains very quickly when I leave the rig. I have to get to about 13.6 to start it and then the next day it is down to 10.5 and won't start. I looked at the solenoid and the disconnect relay and they both look new, (I guess there's nothing going on around them to make them NOT look new), next step is to get the batteries checked to determine if I have a bad one. I have made sure that the AUX battery is disconnected before leaving the rig.

[bobmac]

Sounds like the battery is shot or isn't getting charged when the engine is running via the charge mode solenoid. If the solenoid is working, the voltage on both batteries should be the same when the engine is running. If it is not, the solenoid is defective - a common problem. If the voltage is the same, your battery is not holding the charge and likely needs replacement.

[powercat_ras]

Your profile says you have an Adventurer 33V, 2004. Based on that:

- You can look at your batteries and find their manufacturing date, could well be that they are worn out. They will still charge to 13.X volts but will discharge quickly if they are end of life.

- I doubt you have a bad connection issue as you are seeing 10.5 volts even with very little load in the RV when you return, bad connection shows up worse the more current you use.

- You should check and make sure all your basement compartment lights are switched off, in particular if they are not LED, each one draws about 1 amp when turned on.

- Make sure your inverter is switched off when you are not in the RV.

- You can also save a little power by making sure that the TV antenna power is turned off by pushing the button on the TV plate or the Box with many buttons, depending on what your RV has, so that the LED is not lit.

- There a few "vampire" loads that draw battery: Refrigerator control board, Propane Detector, Thermostat, and the battery feed to radios that stores stations and keeps the clock time going. These should only draw about 10 amp-hours per day.

- Your Adventurer should have 2 or 4 coach batteries so you should have a usable battery storage that you should be able to go several days without even getting down to 12 volts, without operating your coach battery "salesman" switch.

[Steve_n_Sam]

Thanks Bob. I know that deep cycle batteries have to be charged for a long time, but I've gotta think it is one of the batteries. Getting them all checked in the morning.

[Steve_n_Sam]

Thanks Randy. Someone else mentioned the invertor. The only one I have is in the front TV cabinet, but I will check out those boxes. Question though: shouldn't the disconnect take care of that?

[powercat_ras]

You likely are operating only the Chassis disconnect. If you operate the Coach disconnect it shuts down the refrigerator.

With both disconnect switches operated, you should be able to go many days without batteries running down to 10.5 volts unless the batteries are in very bad shape or they have gotten their electrolyte contaminated by adding bad water other than pure distilled water which causes higher than normal self-discharge rates.

[BobC]

This may help you track some things down:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...%20Systems.pdf

(The 2017 date is a publishing date and isn't intended as a model year reference.)

Here's the main page for other useful articles:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...ervicetips.php

[Steve_n_Sam]

Fantastic, thanks again.

[Teamfoxy]

The first thing I do when I have an issue like this is to check all the wire connections for corrosion. Usually cleaning all the connections (including the chassis grounds) does the trick. If the fittings themselves show corrosion where the wire goes into them, often soaking in coca cola will help.
The "boost solenoid" is also the isolator. When the engine is running, the solenoid is activated to put the coach and chassis battery banks in parallel so that the alternator can charge the coach. The boost button, activates that solenoid so that both banks are used. So if the engine is running or the boost button is pushed, all the batteries are supplying power to start the generator.
I am not sure how the solenoid is activated in most RV's. It could be just the ignition switch or it could have some additional switching involved. In boats, I used to use an oil pressure sender to activate the solenoid. That way the engine and (high output) alternator were up to speed before the house bank load was applied.

[n0ukf]

Originally Posted by BobC

Low battery voltage should be easy to check out and eliminate if OK.

A bad ground connection, as described by n0ukf would decrease the available voltage and cause clicking just like a low battery.

I had a similar problem with a '77 GMC conversion van (class B RV), the aluminum ground wire had corroded, making it high resistance to starting current. Replacing it with copper fixed the problem.

[Steve_n_Sam]

Just wanted to follow up and say thank you to all who responded to this post. All of your input is incredibly helpful.
Problem was resolved with new battery, which in turn got me to secure my batteries with trays and straps.