HWH 625 Leveling sensor adjustment, simple and easy!

[FIRE UP]

Gang,
Well, we've owned this coach, an*'04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT now for almost 5 years. Man time flies!! The HWH 625 Computer Controlled Automatic Leveling System that came with the coach, has performed flawlessly each and every time we've used it. And that includes using it in the automatic leveling mode.

Over the years, I've read numerous complaints about the automatic side of many of the HWH systems malfunctioning and raising the coach too high, not high enough, and other complaints. And, many just quit using the automatic feature and, level their coaches manually.


Well, ours, like stated, has been working great. That is until very recently when it began lifting the front a bit too high, to achieve what it (the leveling sensor) thought was dead level. It wasn't excessively high, just more than it needed to be. So, I did a bit of research and found out where the level sensor is and, how to adjust it.

I already have the HWH manuals, service, owners and more so, all I needed was to find the page(s) on leveling sensor adjustment. I printed it out and, put it in a sheet protector so if I got my greasy little fingers on it, I could still wipe it off and read what I needed to read. The adjustment is phenomenally simple. The sensor is located INSIDE the control box for the HWH system.

On our coach, that control box is visible through a clear plexiglass panel, by laying down in front of the right front tire and looking under that section of the front end. Some of you may have already looked at that circuit board with a ton of LEDs, circuits, relays and more. Well, the sensor in ours, it sitting at the bottom of that box.

The adjustment controls are on the outside of the box. All I needed for adjustment was one small, open end, double wrench. On one end, 5/16" and the other, 1/4". The procedures for adjusting are really simple to follow. I won't bother explaining them here and now 'till someone asks. But, suffice to say, from start to finish, the adjustment took me a whopping* 30 seconds or so.

So, as a test, they (HWH) would like you to move the coach to another local and, level it using the automatic system, to make sure that the adjustment took hold. I will do that tomorrow and report the results. This is really cool if it works as I hope it will. I'll post the results.
Scott

[LJowdy]

I'd like to know the procedure. When you have a chance, please post how you adjusted the automatic level feature

thanks

[FIRE UP]

Ljowdy,
Well Sir, it's very simple procedure. Now, I'll explain how it is on our coach, on our 625 HWH system. But, is it the EXACT SAME procedure and, are the same components in the same exact spot on yours, I have no idea. But, I'll leave that to you to decide.

Basically, the control panel for the HWH system is in a box, with a clean plexiglass panel on the front, just behind the two folding entry steps on our coach. You lay on the ground in front of the coach and look up, behind those entry steps and that's where ours is.

Now, like previously stated, you're looking at a large circuit board with a ton of LEDs, relays, resistors and all that electrical stuff. But, at the bottom of that box is a small black plastic block, with a smaller printed circuit board on it along with other components. There are four LEDs, in sort of a diamond shape arrangement. They represent, the same yellow LEDs that are on your HWH leveling control pad, near the drivers seat.

That black plastic block, is mounted in a 2-axis arrangement. That is, it can move in two different directions. And, to make it move in either of the two directions, there are two ways of doing it, on the outside of the big box. What you'll see is what looks like a black plastic large nut, with a smaller black plastic nut molded to it. Inserted in that larger black nut is a screw, that has both Phillips drive in the center and, 1/4" hex on the outside of the head.

The larger size of the black plastic nut is either 7/8" or 3/4" depending on if it's a newer or older system. The smaller, molded black plastic nut is either 1/2" or 5/16", again depending on older or newer.

The LEDs are labeled: A-C and B-D. The A-C axis is for adjusting that black block (with in my case, the 5/16" open end wrench) from left to right which tilts the black block forward or rearward.

Now here's the deal. The instructions in the PDF for the HWH Service manual state that, regardless of the amount or, which one or more of the yellow LEDs are on in the control panel, you need to level the coach, per putting a bubble level on the freezer plate (floor of the freezer compartment) and making that level DEAD PERFECT!

Now, what that means is, in many cases, when the freezer is level, the rest of the coach IS NOT. Well, this is a subject that raises hairs on some. Without going into WW III here, I like my fridge as close to dead level as possible. So, I set up my bubble level in the freezer and, used my manual buttons on the HWH panel to get that level in the dead level position.

Now, that of course, turned on two of the yellow "un level" LEDs on, on the HWH panel. One for forward and back and one for side to side. But, that also turned on both axis LEDs in the black block. So, with the key in the "On" position, you get under there and put your wrench, which ever size is required for your system onto the black plastic nut and, very slowly turn it, in either direction until it turns off, the A-C axis LED.

Now, be careful. The adjustment is ultra critical in that, if you go a micro bit too far, it will turn on the opposite LED. So, you may have to turn that black plastic nut back and forth, in micro amounts, 'till both sides of the A-C axis LEDs are OUT.

Once that's done, then you get your little 1/4" or, what ever size is needed for your screw and, make the same kind of adjustment, to turn out the B-C axis LED. That adjustment is not nearly as critical as the A-B adjustment.

Now, by turning off the A-C and B-D axis LEDs in the adjustment block, you've also turned off the yellow LEDs in the HWH panel in the coach. And, by doing that, you'd set up the stop points for the AUTOMATIC side of the leveling system.

So, I hope this has helped here.
Scott

[FIRE UP]

Well,
After the adjustment, I did some battery work and, headed out for a test drive. I backed the coach into its cave and, hit the auto leveling button on the HWH panel. I got out while it was automatically dumping the air and watched the coach do it's thing. Well, it stopped just exactly where it was supposed to which, was considerably lower than what it had been doing. Now, the coach is dead level and, it's not very high, yahoooooo!
Scott

[LJowdy]

Thank you !!!!!

[Petro]

Scott;

Thank you for posting this very valuable HWH info. My HWH leveling is doing well yet. Sometimes after leveling and I run the slides out I get a little off level side to side. My DW determines this by the bathroom door. I than manually make a little adjustment. Should I be running the slides out before leveling? I have never done this.

Don

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Petro

Scott;

Thank you for posting this very valuable HWH info. My HWH leveling is doing well yet. Sometimes after leveling and I run the slides out I get a little off level side to side. My DW determines this by the bathroom door. I than manually make a little adjustment. Should I be running the slides out before leveling? I have never done this.

Don

Hey good morning Don!
NO SIR, do not bring the slide(s) out prior to leveling. As you've more than likely read, (about a zillion times here) our coach manufacturer wants us to level the coach first, then bring the slides out. It only makes common sense. If you provide a stable, level, SQUARE (in all planes) opening for the slide(s) to operate in, you'll have way less trouble with them and their operational characteristics, i.e. hydraulic rams, tracks, slide guides, and all that, due to you providing the most sensible environment for them to slide in and out.

With all that being said, after you've leveled the coach, it is quite common for some "tilting" to be observed due to the weight transfer of the slide(s) and, the weight of the supplies carried in those slides. Leverage is a funny thing. You'd think that since you've got the jacks down and you're stable as a rock, that there would be no effect by extending the slide(s).

Well, in some coaches, no, there is no effect. But on others, you'll tilt the coach, ever so slightly due to the said weight transfer. Yes, mine too will have a super slight effect on the levelness when I bring both drivers side slides out. I sometimes have to tap on the right to left buttons on the HWH panel to compensate just a tad.

And yes, I too will check the "invisible" status of being level by opening either the bathroom door or, shower door to see how they react to our present situation. And, while it's nice to be able to open them up and they stay where we stop at, even if they want to self close or, continue to open further on their own, it's the FREEZER FLOOR that is the supreme AUTHORITY of just what our level status ends up at.

That's a $3500 dollar fridge! If it want's to be level at a certain position which, causes the shower door to self close, guess who's in command? The FREEZER!
Scott

[DrDaveMA]

One of the things that affects leveling is what you are leveling on. If it is soft (sand, mud, etc) you can count on some settling over time (minutes, hours, days), even if it is hard you could also see some on hard surfaces. I have a set of 3' pressure treated 2 X 10 boards I put down before I level and then extend the slides. I put a drawer handle on those boards so they are easy to pick up. They spread the load over almost 3 square feet instead of the small landing pad at the end of the jack. These coaches are heavy, even using the boards, I have settled into sand or black top and have to adjust periodically, at one time after a heavy rain I found one of the boards cracked because the coach had settled too much.

[LJowdy]

Thanks again for the info. It's amazing what you learn if you read the manual. After getting the info from you, I spoke to a friend and his HWH allows him to make the adjustments from the HWH leveling panel. I looked in my manual and found the same info. you posted. (Probably should have done this first and you would not have had to write the procedure)

On my control box, I had to use a mirror to see the yellow LED's. About 1 year ago, I sent that under coach control box to HWH for repairs. When I re-mounted it, it threw off the balance and wouldn't allow the coach to self level. I centered the box which turned off the side to side lights and only had to adjust for fore and aft. VERY EASY

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by LJowdy

Thanks again for the info. It's amazing what you learn if you read the manual. After getting the info from you, I spoke to a friend and his HWH allows him to make the adjustments from the HWH leveling panel. I looked in my manual and found the same info. you posted. (Probably should have done this first and you would not have had to write the procedure)

On my control box, I had to use a mirror to see the yellow LED's. About 1 year ago, I sent that under coach control box to HWH for repairs. When I re-mounted it, it threw off the balance and wouldn't allow the coach to self level. I centered the box which turned off the side to side lights and only had to adjust for fore and aft. VERY EASY

LJowdy,
You say your buddies HWH system allows him to make adjustments to the LEVELING SENSOR from INSIDE the coach, at the HWH control panel??? If so, WOW, I didn't know HWH set up systems like that. As for you using a mirror to see the adjustment LEDs inside the control center, yep, I did too have to use a mirror. I forgot to tell you that. Sorry.

Anyway, as you've found out, it's an easy system to adjust, as long as everything works right, both before and after any adjustments. These darn computer controlled things CAN go haywire every now and then.
Scott

[LJowdy]

Scott, In regard to your inquiry about my friend, he has a 2014 Entegra Anthem.

What we dud under the coach with wrenches and mirrors, he can do simply by pressing 2 buttons at the same time on the leveling control panel inside the coach.

Interestingly enough, Entegra tells their customers to extend their slides first, then level the coach.''
Larry

[66farmer]

I just did the adjustment a few days ago and would like to add a few things.
I could not see the four LED lights in the control box very well so I had the wife watch the inside panel to tell when the lights go on and off. It took some time because the adjustment are very touchy.
After we did get all the lights off I stored the jacks and aired the bags up and hit auto to test the readjustment. It's a lot better but not perfect.

After leveling the MH using the freezer floor I started checking other surfaces counter, floor and the big one washer dryer BOY IT WAS REAL OUT OF LEVEL. I would think that the manufacture (Itasca) could have done a better job.
I added 5/8 to the bottom of the rear adjusting legs to get it level and this is after I adjust the front legs all the way in and rears all the way out.
The reason for this is the cabinet that the washer is in was installed out of level thanks Itasca.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

I just did the adjustment a few days ago and would like to add a few things.
I could not see the four LED lights in the control box very well so I had the wife watch the inside panel to tell when the lights go on and off. It took some time because the adjustment are very touchy.
After we did get all the lights off I stored the jacks and aired the bags up and hit auto to test the readjustment. It's a lot better but not perfect.

After leveling the MH using the freezer floor I started checking other surfaces counter, floor and the big one washer dryer BOY IT WAS REAL OUT OF LEVEL. I would think that the manufacture (Itasca) could have done a better job.
I added 5/8 to the bottom of the rear adjusting legs to get it level and this is after I adjust the front legs all the way in and rears all the way out.
The reason for this is the cabinet that the washer is in was installed out of level thanks Itasca.

EXACTLY! In many cases, the fridge is not as level in referance to the rest of the coach, as many of us would like it to be. So, when those of us take the time to correct the leveling situation by making adjustments, we find many parts of the coach, not level anymore. Well, as much as I don't really care for this situation, I would much rather put up with a door that slowly self closes, than have to replace a $3,000 refrigerator 'cause I'd rather have the coach level than the fridge. I know, I know, there are many on there that get their fridges "close" but, I try and get it as close to perfect as I can, I'M THE ONE THAT HAS TO PAY FOR IT WHEN IT GOES OUT DO TO MY LAZINESS!
Scott

[two-niner]

Our 2012 Tour can be adjusted from the drivers seat. It's right there in the manual.


Entegra uses an air (ride) system. Slides out, then level on theirs.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by two-niner

Our 2012 Tour can be adjusted from the drivers seat. It's right there in the manual.


Entegra uses an air (ride) system. Slides out, then level on theirs.

You know, far be it from me to conflict with "engineers" who designed these thing in the first place. This thing of extending slides before leveling has only been discussed, oh, about a zillion times on here and, I don't want to drag it out any more. But, it sure as heck doesn't make any sense to me that, if you pull up to a spot and, you're seriously or, even mildly unlevel, to put out the slides prior to leveling.

The main reason I think this is odd is, most, if not all slides, that I know of, have ZERO support or actual guidance from any part of the slide, except from underneath. So, if your coach is leaning, forward, backward, to one side and to the front or back, then that slide or, set of slides, is FALLING towards or leaning to, the low side/end due to it not having any support to keep it square with the opening on the coach.

But, if you level a coach, front to back and side to side, then the slide(s) don't have any stress on them to FALL in any particular direction. They just travel STRAIGHT out, on their rails or whatever they ride on with no gravitational force. Just my way of thinking. If a manufacturer states to extend the slide(s) before leveling, I guess they know what they're doing and, it apparently is not a problem to do so.
Scott