HWH Leveling Jacks and slides Control Box?

[charles tuit]

Originally Posted by rbradd

I was able to get the RV into the shop this morning for a diagnosis, they confirmed that it is the pump/motor that was the problem. However they can not do the work as they are really backed up, kind of did me a favor by even getting it into look at.

I have not reached out to Stuarts Service yet, but I had found this unit online:

HWH Tank/Motor/Pump assembly WITHOUT Solenoids: nwrvsupply.com

How messy/complicated is it to replace this? I am reasonably mechanically inclined but have never worked with hydraulics before. I would hate to have to have it redone. And I worry about spilling fluids etc or contaminating it.

There are two shops other locally and they are both backed up for better than a month plus with work. So, is this a DIY project or is it a wait and have a professional do it project? That is what I have to decide, so any feedback from you mechanics would be appreciated.

As always, thanks in advance.

Rick,

You can remove as it is EASY!

1. Disconnect both coach and chassis batteries (negative)as I'm not sure which is powering the pump. Cover the cable terminals.

2. Loosen clamp that holds the solenoid. Remove the cables on the pump.

3. Remove the 2 small bolts at the end of the pump. (Bolts are super long)

4. Pull pump out. It WILL NOT LEAK as the hydraulics are sealed and the pump has a slot at the end that drives the system.

For $500 dollars I would get on the phone and call a starter/alternator rebuild shop first. Your money/your choice.

Good luck

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by charles tuit

The first thing I would do is check oil level with jacks up and slides in.

Not all HWH systems are that way. Some. like mine require the above floor slides to be in and the flat floor ones to be out. On mine that's three in and one out. I have air leveling so no jacks.

[rbradd]

Originally Posted by charles tuit

Rick,

You can remove as it is EASY!

1. Disconnect both coach and chassis batteries (negative)as I'm not sure which is powering the pump. Cover the cable terminals.

2. Loosen clamp that holds the solenoid. Remove the cables on the pump.

3. Remove the 2 small bolts at the end of the pump. (Bolts are super long)

4. Pull pump out. It WILL NOT LEAK as the hydraulics are sealed and the pump has a slot at the end that drives the system.

For $500 dollars I would get on the phone and call a starter/alternator rebuild shop first. Your money/your choice.

Good luck

Thanks, Charlie,
I know you have the same coach so I plan on taking your advice and calling around.

My worry was, is the problem the actual motor? Or could it be the pump? plus with all the solenoids I was unsure of how to narrow down the problem, which is why I ended up taking it to have a pro look at it. I still do not know for sure if it is just the motor but my feeling is you are right and it is the motor, so that is where I will start.

The link I found was for a motor and pump with the reservoir too, which would have been a shotgun approach, but I think I will pull the motor off this weekend and get it bench tested and rebuilt. Or maybe if the price is right I will replace the whole motor, have plenty of time to decide.

Rick

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by rbradd

Thanks, Charlie,
I know you have the same coach so I plan on taking your advice and calling around.

My worry was, is the problem the actual motor? Or could it be the pump? plus with all the solenoids I was unsure of how to narrow down the problem, which is why I ended up taking it to have a pro look at it. I still do not know for sure if it is just the motor but my feeling is you are right and it is the motor, so that is where I will start.

The link I found was for a motor and pump with the reservoir too, which would have been a shotgun approach, but I think I will pull the motor off this weekend and get it bench tested and rebuilt. Or maybe if the price is right I will replace the whole motor, have plenty of time to decide.

Rick

Rick, stick with Carlie's advise but CALL Stuart's before you take anything apart. They wii direct you to the correct pdf service manual and tell you the pump part # and $. I have dealt with them several times over the years. They have earned a very good reputation for good reasons. Trust them.

Rick Y

[azpete]

listen to rick, he knows of what he speaks
throwing parts at it is expensive

[Heating man]

call stuart.s chuck really knows these systems and he will help you determine what you need. I was up there this week getting a jack replaced and I have bought several parts from him. excellent service and help.

[rbradd]

After tapping on the motor with a rubber mallet while the switch was engaged the motor caught and ran, stopped, then ran and quit. Was unable to find this motor anywhere, it is obsolete. Due to work I ran out of time to keep working on it and took it to an RV repair shop, they tested and came to the same conclusion. They called Stuarts and a few other sources and were unable to find a replacement. HWH suggested they send it in with the pump to be rebuilt. Three to four weeks.

I said screw it, its been out of commission for too long and I had a camping trip coming up that I really wanted to have the RV ready for. So I ordered the motor, pump and reservoir. I got a call the day after I placed my order, they did not have a direct replacement but had a similar model that they thought would work.

Luckily it did, so after all this time, I spent $900 total. What really kind of sucks is right before they pulled the old unit out, it started working again, but at this point I said change it out and I will keep the old one. Maybe I can get the motor rebuilt sometime.

Anyway, thanks everyone that helped me out, certainly appreciate it.

[AKIQPilot]

Originally Posted by rbradd

After tapping on the motor with a rubber mallet while the switch was engaged the motor caught and ran, stopped, then ran and quit. Was unable to find this motor anywhere, it is obsolete. Due to work I ran out of time to keep working on it and took it to an RV repair shop, they tested and came to the same conclusion. They called Stuarts and a few other sources and were unable to find a replacement. HWH suggested they send it in with the pump to be rebuilt. Three to four weeks.

I said screw it, its been out of commission for too long and I had a camping trip coming up that I really wanted to have the RV ready for. So I ordered the motor, pump and reservoir. I got a call the day after I placed my order, they did not have a direct replacement but had a similar model that they thought would work.

Luckily it did, so after all this time, I spent $900 total. What really kind of sucks is right before they pulled the old unit out, it started working again, but at this point I said change it out and I will keep the old one. Maybe I can get the motor rebuilt sometime.

Anyway, thanks everyone that helped me out, certainly appreciate it.

Hey Rick, glad you found a solution. My 02 Itasca has a similar pump/motor and about 4 years ago had the exact same symptoms. In my case I was on the lake (3' of ice) with the slides out and she was dead in the water, slides would not move. Tapped and banged on the motor while my wife held the slide retract switches and it would start and stop but not enough to get the slides in. I jumped on google and one of the first links that came up for was a local rv service center here in Alaska. I called and a nice lady named Karen answered. I asked to speak to a service tech. She said, you got her, whats your issue. Told her my symptoms. She said the ground wire inside the motor has come loose. she told me to remove the two long 5/16 head hex bolts and pull the motor off the pump. Take the motor apart and I will find the loose ground inside the motor. Sure enough. Took 5 minutres to get the motor off and find the loose ground wire. reattached the ground wire and the motor was good to go. Karen also told me the motors were available on ebay. Made by a company called Monarch. She even gave me the part nunber of the motor to search for. In addition she told me for $90 she would recon my existing motor with all new brushes bearing and an armature overhaul.

So I got my slides in, took Karen my old motor for an overhaul and bought a new Monarch motor from ebay for about $90. Below is a Monarch motor very similar to mine.

Over the last 4 years I have helped several fellow RV'ers who were at a campground and dead in the water with no HWH motor/pump action. They think I'm some sort of RV god but I give all the credit to Karen. She knew this HWH system inside and out.

Sounds like you have your issues figured out but my guess is your motor can be overhauled for about $90 and be tucked away as a nice spare for you or someone else down the road some day.

NEW PERMANENT MAGNET MOTOR MONARCH PUMPS 56539 82195 2590100 2590112 50501 | eBay

[azpete]

if this is the motor off a snow plow, that everyone says fits, make sure to measure the distance between the two small thru bolts.
on the one that i saw, it had both a hot and ground post on the side of the motor, and the distance between the two bolts was 3/16 too narrow.
also, look at the end of the motor nearest the pump. there are several configurations within the pump series. some have slots, which on some, the shaft is longer that others. some have a spacer between the pump and motor. it fits on a gear shaped adapter.
all of these things need to be looked at to make sure you got the right motor.
personally, having the motor rebuilt by a shop that does starters is where i would start.