Jack Solenoid O-Rings

DancinCampers · 08-29-2007, 06:19 PM

Well, it was bound to happen. The last few weeks my right front jack has been leaking down. No exterior leaks and I did the normal cycleing per HWH. They said solenoid needs replacing if cycleing did not work. I removed the solenoid to see if there was anything blocking the valve from closing, and noticed that one of the flat o-rings at the end of the valve looked torn. So I switched the two flat o rings & reinstalled. That helped, it took longer for the jack to leak down.

Called HWH and ordered their O-ring kit. Replaced all the o-rings on the 4 jack solenoids today, and after 11 hours still level.

The kit does 8 solenoids, cost $10, + $8 shipping.

Coach was built in 2002, so guess 5 years pretty good. The slide solenoids seem to still be working ok.

Here are some pics:

Solenoid

This is the valve end. The end has 3 o-rings (flat-round-flat). There are also a larger flat & round o-ring next to the body which seals the unit against the manifold. You can see the plunger inside the hole.

These are the old o-rings.

If this works, a lot less expensive than replacing the solenoids.

DancinCampers · 08-29-2007, 06:19 PM

Well, it was bound to happen. The last few weeks my right front jack has been leaking down. No exterior leaks and I did the normal cycleing per HWH. They said solenoid needs replacing if cycleing did not work. I removed the solenoid to see if there was anything blocking the valve from closing, and noticed that one of the flat o-rings at the end of the valve looked torn. So I switched the two flat o rings & reinstalled. That helped, it took longer for the jack to leak down.

Called HWH and ordered their O-ring kit. Replaced all the o-rings on the 4 jack solenoids today, and after 11 hours still level.

The kit does 8 solenoids, cost $10, + $8 shipping.

Coach was built in 2002, so guess 5 years pretty good. The slide solenoids seem to still be working ok.

Here are some pics:

Solenoid

This is the valve end. The end has 3 o-rings (flat-round-flat). There are also a larger flat & round o-ring next to the body which seals the unit against the manifold. You can see the plunger inside the hole.

These are the old o-rings.

If this works, a lot less expensive than replacing the solenoids.

Izzyblueye · 08-30-2007, 05:05 AM

DANCING CAMPERS: Great post. First time I have seen this type of post on IRV2. Could/will save some of us an expensive solenoid replacement.

David K · 08-31-2007, 04:35 AM

Great Post !!!!!!!!!!! I am not having any problems with my leveling jacks but, I am wondering if this might be something to add to the preventive maintance on my MH. It is also 5 years old now. I think that I will go ahead and order the kit just to have on hand -- does not cost that much and I sure would like to have it should I have a problem in the future.

Duner · 09-07-2007, 09:36 PM

Dan, thanks for sharing the info.

Couple of questions on the solenoid removal:
1) How do you get the solenoids out? -- use channel lock pliers?

2) With the solenoid out will the fluid pour out? Do you have to drain the fluid from the holding tank first? Did you plug the hole with something?

Thanks again,
Duner

smlranger · 09-08-2007, 04:05 AM

As someone who has spent a bit of time R&R my slide solenoids recently, you need to replace solenoids with jacks up and slides in. Before removing the solenoid, release pressure by opening the T handle (on the jack solenoids) or loosening the 1/4" nut (on slide solenoids). When you remove the solenoid, there will be some oozing of fluid but you won't lose much.

You can use channel lock pliers on them.

DancinCampers · 09-08-2007, 09:41 AM

Duner,

I used a medium pipe wrench. My unit is located in front of the radiator, with the jack solenoids on the left side as you look at them. I removed them front to back, and replaced them front to back. This gave plenty of room to get a solid grip on them with the wrench.

Agree with smlranger, as long as you open the t handle or 1/4 inch nuts you will only lose a small amount. I did not plug the holes, but did check them for any debris. If you don't open the t handle, even with jacks stored, you will get a good spurt of fluid as you remove the solenoid. I forgot to do that on one.

The solenoids & pigtails should have color coded tape, be sure to replace them in the same order as they are currently installed.

Also, be carefull when you install the new o-rings which go up against the solenoid body. These have to get past some really sharp threads.

Good luck.