Kwikee Steps

ichn2go · 09-07-2008, 04:54 AM

Read about adjusting the cams on the steps. Checked the manual on how to and did this.It did not help the mushyness or give in my steps.

In checking, when the wife steps on the steps, the metal plate that the steps are attached to gives and causes the steps to go down and be mushy.
Tried to tighten the four bolts and they were tight. The metal is giving for sure. Anybody experienced this and what is the fix short of removing the steps and reinforcing the plate?
After parking I use an adjustable stand under the steps. Thanks

ichn2go · 09-07-2008, 04:54 AM

Read about adjusting the cams on the steps. Checked the manual on how to and did this.It did not help the mushyness or give in my steps.

In checking, when the wife steps on the steps, the metal plate that the steps are attached to gives and causes the steps to go down and be mushy.
Tried to tighten the four bolts and they were tight. The metal is giving for sure. Anybody experienced this and what is the fix short of removing the steps and reinforcing the plate?
After parking I use an adjustable stand under the steps. Thanks

Al10453 · 09-07-2008, 07:56 AM

I was told that almost all of the step bolts tend to pull thru the upper support.I removed the 4 nuts & dropped the steps.I placed a 1/4 " thick steel plate with matching holes for the bolts that was large enough so that it could be welded along the edges to some of the steel supports. Put nuts on the bolts before you put the plate up and adjust them so they contact the plate & the plate is level with the door.I secured the plate with 4 other nuts & drove to a local welding shop. Put the steps back on, the new support worked well. The steps them selves do have some give though.

John Hilley · 09-07-2008, 09:25 AM

I had the same problem. I planned on using a hole saw to cut a hole above the bolts for tightening. When I cut the hole I found that the bolts were actually tack welded to the plate. What had happened was the sheet metal that the steps are attached to had actually tore. I pounded everything back in place, welded the tear, then cut a 16 ga sheet to slightly larger then the step mounting, drilled it to pass the mounting bolts and then welded it in place.

NeilV · 09-07-2008, 11:40 AM

Very common problem on these coaches. Winnebago put out a bulletin on this in 2004, I believe, when they redisigned the well with two C-Channels inside it as a reinforcement.

I removed the bottom tread in the stepwell and cut out an access hole 1 inch smaller that the step with a sawzall. I did all my repairs from above with 3/16 inch thick steel angle. Used stainless steel fasteners in place of the originals.

Glued the tread onto a piece of plywood and just laid it back in place so I can have easy access to the bolts when I need to.

ichn2go · 09-08-2008, 01:22 AM

Neil, would it be possible to e-mail me some pictures also how did you remove the tread?
[email protected] .

Glad to know that I am not the only one with the problem, now to get it fixed as easy as possible. I can always depend on you guys for some answers. Thanks

Duner · 09-08-2008, 03:49 PM

Here's one more way to fix the mushy steps. I used two pieces of 2" steel angle iron about 8" long and several 3/8" lag screws. The two screws on the end attach to the aluminum frame that runs along the outside of the storage/step area. The alum frame running front to back is where the strength is & that is working good for us for about a year now. The picture shows only one of the two (painted red) brackets I added.

John Hilley · 09-08-2008, 05:12 PM

Here are some pictures of the tearing of the step mount on our 1999 Brave

Step pictures

rigrunner · 09-11-2008, 11:26 AM

Not to change the subject, but my steps are not retracting all the way up. Does anyone know what to adjust or how to adjust them? They only come up about 3/4 of the way unless I help them. Thanks, Rig

becks · 09-11-2008, 11:37 AM

rigrunner...Try lubing all the pivot points. Many times that is all it takes to get them working again.

Pap, Penna · 09-11-2008, 12:01 PM

Inch2go.

I had the same problem on my 02 and had to have step removed, and had mechanic weld the area where the bolts are because it was torn, then he cut pieces of 1/8" metal plate and drilled it for bolts then welded the plate to the step plate, then put the step back in place. Not a good design for sure. Original bolts are spot welded into the original plate.

Pap, Penna
02 Adventurer, 35U

ichn2go · 09-18-2008, 01:17 AM

Really did not know the metal the steps attach to was a problem on these coaches. Thanks to all who replied telling me of the problem and offering advice on how to remedy it.

We have a great welding shop in our area, installs hitches, base plates on toads, wiring etc. You name it they have it in stock, most often.

Went to them they looked , saw, welded a couple of flat plates, one hour from start to finish at most and because they are friends I left not very light in the pocketbook. I have not looked to see what they done, but the steps are RIGID and don't give at all. When I look ,, I will let you know what the solution was. Thanks to all of you, You always come through.

NeilV · 09-19-2008, 12:21 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ichn2go:
Really did not know the metal the steps attach to was a problem on these coaches. Thanks to all who replied telling me of the problem and offering advice on how to remedy it.

We have a great welding shop in our area, installs hitches, base plates on toads, wiring etc. You name it they have it in stock, most often.

Went to them they looked , saw, welded a couple of flat plates, one hour from start to finish at most and because they are friends I left not very light in the pocketbook. I have not looked to see what they done, but the steps are RIGID and don't give at all. When I look ,, I will let you know what the solution was. Thanks to all of you, You always come through. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Glad you got it taken care of. I have seen too many of these out there and most people think it is just the step out of adjustment. Just make sure they cleaned everything up, primed and painted afterwards. Welded metal tends to rust a lot faster and you don't need a bloom of rust to deal with.

TimeToGetGoing · 11-12-2008, 09:48 AM

NeilV

A dumb question, but how did you get the rubber tread off the step? I'm thinking dynamite, but then the steps would not be a big problem.

John Hilley · 11-12-2008, 05:31 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TimeToGetGoing:
NeilV

A dumb question, but how did you get the rubber tread off the step? I'm thinking dynamite, but then the steps would not be a big problem. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I carefully pried it up with a putty knife. It might not be necessary for you to do that. I did it because I didn't know exactly what the problem was. I could have made the repair with out taking up the rubber tread.

NeilV · 11-12-2008, 06:37 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TimeToGetGoing:
NeilV

A dumb question, but how did you get the rubber tread off the step? I'm thinking dynamite, but then the steps would not be a big problem. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

With a few stiff 3" putty knives and a sharp flat bar.

Some may be tempted to surface weld it from the outside of the step box but that opens you up to a whole world of other problems. That sheet metal is just too thin which is at the root of the problem so the toes of any welds could start ripping through like a zipper comming apart.

ichn2go · 11-13-2008, 03:36 AM

Having some reinforcement welded to the underside is sooooo easy. It cost $40.00 to heve them do mine. Good Miles

John Hilley · 11-13-2008, 03:55 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NeilV:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TimeToGetGoing:
NeilV

A dumb question, but how did you get the rubber tread off the step? I'm thinking dynamite, but then the steps would not be a big problem. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

With a few stiff 3" putty knives and a sharp flat bar.

Some may be tempted to surface weld it from the outside of the step box but that opens you up to a whole world of other problems. That sheet metal is just too thin which is at the root of the problem so the toes of any welds could start ripping through like a zipper comming apart. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

On mine there was heavier metal in front of and to the rear of the step area. I welded to this cleaned, primed and painted whole area.

NeilV · 11-14-2008, 12:41 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John Hilley:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by NeilV:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TimeToGetGoing:
NeilV

A dumb question, but how did you get the rubber tread off the step? I'm thinking dynamite, but then the steps would not be a big problem. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

With a few stiff 3" putty knives and a sharp flat bar.

Some may be tempted to surface weld it from the outside of the step box but that opens you up to a whole world of other problems. That sheet metal is just too thin which is at the root of the problem so the toes of any welds could start ripping through like a zipper comming apart. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

On mine there was heavier metal in front of and to the rear of the step area. I welded to this cleaned, primed and painted whole area. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

In 2001 (2000?) an on they have the entire box made of the same 20 to 22 gauge sheet metal with a few electric tack welds to hold it all together. To weld the front you would have to take the body panels below and beside the entry door off but then you would still only be welding to thin sheet stock.

Dick1030 · 01-02-2016, 11:53 AM

To all who posted on this subject, even a little over 7 years later, your posts are extremely helpful to me today, for my 2000 Adventurer 35. When I crawled under and saw how thin the metal is that the stair assembly is bolted to, I couldn't believe it.

Happy New Year to all!

And thanks again.

Dick