Lippert leaking hydraulic jack line - update?

Upinsmoke · 09-23-2019, 02:44 AM

Hi, back in 2016 (and previously) there were several posts here regarding hydraulic leaks in the Lippert jack system. The OP Rossi. .? seemed to have made good progress toward correcting the problem, but I couldn't (just now in reviewing the thread) find a final resolution as to whether it totally, or even mostly, fixed the problem. Also, the post was so old, I wasn't able to post to it now.

Since I'm still suffering the same minor seepage at a couple of the jacks as back then, I feel like I may be living on borrowed time.

Can anyone point me to any newer posts on the subject? Given the cost of the repairs, I don't want to jump into it willy nilly.

Thanks

WoodBoss · 09-27-2019, 10:42 AM

While I have a different system many hydraulic issues are the same. Are you leaking from the piston seal or is it a line?

Upinsmoke · 09-28-2019, 03:17 AM

Best I can tell, it doesn't have anything to do with the piston seal. I believe that in each case (3 out of 4?) it's a slight weep type leak at the hose connection and/or fitting connection on the jack housing. Because it's just a weep, it's nearly impossible to dry it off, clean it up and then see where it's leaking.

The weep is something I can live with but if the leak is just a precursor to a malfunction/ breakdown, I'd prefer to do it on my terms and time.

The real problem, imo, is that the system is always under pressure so w/o the technical know how and tools, it doesn't sound like a handyman DIY project. If anyone knows otherwise, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks

KTM251ss · 09-29-2019, 09:57 AM

FWIW, I have a 2016 Sunova. I had a leaky Right rear jack and it was coming from a top line to the jack. I have an extended warranty so i got the jack replaced. When my RV tech and I were looking at it the problem was that a small rubber "O" ring was missing in the hose connection. So i had some harbor freight misc "O" rings and we fitted one in there and he put the new jack on. So one thing you can do is remove the fitting and check for missing or bad "O" rings and replace them, re bleed the system and see if it fixes it. (I kept the old jack for a spare just in case I need on later)

Rossi6998 · 09-30-2019, 12:42 AM

It has been a while, but I will try and recall what was done...

Some of my hoses were bulging and I was also getting a slight leak at the o-ring at the pump. If I remember correctly, the hoses that hold the jacks up were the ones bulging. The dealership played around with a couple different hoses and we finally had success with "Gates" hoses. These hoses are rated at 5800 PSI. It is my understanding the Lippert Jacks pressurize at approximately 3000 PSI. Since the replacement of these hoses, I have not had any more problems with the hoses. Now, the o-ring at the pump is a different issue. I have had the dealership and my Ford mechanic work on this issue. They have replaced the o-ring which is a temporary fix. Last time, my Ford mechanic replaced the o-ring and the fitting that goes into the pump. I have not checked it recently, but it would not surprise me if it started leaking again. Just a poor design. I also noticed a leak between the fluid tank and the pump. It is my understanding there is a fiber gasket between the two and it will start to leak over time.

Good luck

Upinsmoke · 09-30-2019, 02:34 AM

Thanks for the information. I may be able to find this in the LCI information/manual, but does it take a mechanic/tool to bleed that kind of pressure off of a system? I will however, look for bulges - ugh! The leak(s)/ weeping is more of an annoyance at this time, I just don't want it to lead to a failure at some inconvenient time. Sounds as tho the o rings might always be an issue which is unfortunate.

In reference to the leak between the pump and the tank, mine also had that leak. It left a small spot of fluid on the ground. Although it was a bit of a pain, I was able to tighten the 4 allen screws and haven't had a drop since then. Fingers crossed. If your pump/tank is located behind the left front tire, you can get great access to the are by removing the inner wheel well which isn't a bad job. I had to do it for rust maintenance/prevention, but while it was off, I used the access to tidy everything up.

Thanks again.

danhannah · 10-01-2019, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Upinsmoke

In reference to the leak between the pump and the tank, mine also had that leak. It left a small spot of fluid on the ground. Although it was a bit of a pain, I was able to tighten the 4 allen screws and haven't had a drop since then. Fingers crossed. If your pump/tank is located behind the left front tire, you can get great access to the are by removing the inner wheel well which isn't a bad job. I had to do it for rust maintenance/prevention, but while it was off, I used the access to tidy everything up.
.

More details on the wheel well removal please.

Did you have to remove the tire? Is the inner wheel well just bolted on? What could you see doing that?

Thanks in advance!

Upinsmoke · 10-01-2019, 05:01 AM

The wheel does not have to come off to get access to the 6+/- bolts holding the back metal splash guard off. I'll include a pic with the panel removed which will show the bolt holes and basically what you gain access wise. One of the main benefits of it is the amount of light it provides, plus better access.
I forgot to mention that when tightening the allen screws for the tank/pump connection, it required that I saw off/shorten the short leg of the allen wrench for access to the bolt. I had a spare wrench or three so it was no biggie. Hope that helps.

Sorry, it looks like the pic needs to be turned.

WoodBoss · 10-03-2019, 03:04 PM

If you are having a leak at the line fitting or jack fitting it may just need to be tightened. That is easier said than done of course. I had a leak at the top of the jack where the hydraulic line attached to a "T" fitting. I could twist it with my hand but getting enough grip with a wrench was another story. I had to drop the propane tank out of the way and remove the mounting bolts from the the jack housing to get access to the top of the jack. I ended up having to remove a sensor in the top of the jack to gain clearance and tighten the hydraulic "T". I spent about 6 hours Saturday doing this and it is not leaking anymore. The tee was basically a steel pipe fitting in the top of the jack, I was able to get a full turn on it. It was pretty loose. Hydraulic lines are pretty stiff and can put tension on the fittings causing them to back out a little bit due to movement or vibration, reach up in there and see if it is loose, you may be able to tighten it enough with out too much work.

danhannah · 10-03-2019, 03:34 PM

Up In Smoke, thank you. Much appreciated!

Upinsmoke · 10-04-2019, 02:21 AM

danhannah - welcome

wood boss - I'm surprised you were able to turn it with your hand as these lines are supposed to be, as I understand it, under high pressure even with the jacks retracted. I am working on tightening the lines. I have decent access to mine and I bought a set of good line wrenches for the purpose - which now live on the RV.

I'm going to snug everything down, clean it up good and see what happens. Thanks.