Maintenance costs, Triton V10 vs. Mercedes Turbo Diesel 3.0 V6

[icw2gotra]

Thinking of trading our 2017 Winnebago Trend for a used Vista LX. Also on the short list is used Class C on Sprinter chassis. I'm concerned about maintenance costs and repairs on both of these engines/drivetrains being significantly higher than the ProMaster van chassis. Anyone have knowledge (first hand or second) of what it costs to maintain and repair the Ford Triton V10 versus a Mercedes 3.0 V6 turbodiesel? I'm thinking of routine periodic maintenance, plus long-term issues to look out for.

[WinnieView]

For us and we do the work ourselves the yearly oil, filter, and fuel filter costs for the Mercedes 3.0 V6 turbodiesel will be about $150.

[Old Crows]

Can't speak to costs for a FORD. RE: fuel filter change on a Sprinter OM-642 V6 turbo is: $371.64 last week at Mercedes Benz of Boerne, TX. OK.... now sit back down.....


The fuel filter is NOT a simple filter that you would put on a '56 Cummins. It's complicated: water sensor, fuel heater, three line connections, 5 pin electrical connector. and it has an internal hydrophobic membrane to keep water OUT of the high pressure common rail injection system. Also, it has a drain system for removing any water in the filter should you need it. The filter is located on the starboard side of the 'valley' between the cylinder heads under the air cleaner box. The induction tube to the turbo must be disconnected to access it.



Not an impossible DIY job but IMHO is not a DIY. Reason: In addition to the filter ($202.65) you need several other bits and pieces to make a fool proof/leak proof replacement. Hose clamp: $6.64; loom tie: $9.38; compensating ring: $37.36.



The hose clamp is 'special' (makes a perfect 360 degree seal around the rubber hoses to properly seal and retain the fuel line. (Jubilee clamps, spring clamps, plastic clamps won't do it....) and importantly, when re-fitting the air cleaner > turbo induction tube you need a new compensating ring or size adapter for the tube-turbo connection. Never a good idea to recycle the old one as they tend to blow off somewhere down the road when you will be most inconvenienced. (Meaning an instant power loss; MIL light and dashboard becomes an arcade game.. and you are in limp home mode...)



Filter was replaced and done so well you would not know that anything was done under the hood. No leaks, drips, spills... no muss or fuss. It looks exactly like it came from the factory.



Time for a Sprinter tech to do this job? About 45 minutes. Time for me to do it... maybe 2 hours, busted knuckles, 8 Motrin .... and .... I have to schlep 75 miles round trip for all the parts.



Recommended replacement is every 20K miles.



That said: this is 2019.... you can't take any vehicle to a 'dealer' and expect to have Walmart prices. Dropped a grand plus on our Hybrid Camry last month on an O2 sensor and replacing a worn shaft/u-joints on the steering shaft. There are NO cheap fixes....



+++++++++


Yes, you may pay out a little more for the 'dealer' experience at Mother Benz's store but there are some other benefits. If you are are a regular customer... you get coupons and discounts. Also, if there are any software updates for your Sprinter, they will apply them. That keeps your Sprinter running at top efficiency. They do recalls like any other mfgr. In my case, both the driver AND passenger side air bags were replaced when parts became available. The passenger side was done last week as well. Last, there is a computerized record of every visit, issue or repair that is available at any MB store should you need it.

[Old Crows]

Oh.... and I forgot to mention.... while at the Benz store you get to enjoy the comforts of Mother's customer lounge with 15 types of coffee, 8 types of tea, soft drinks, water, fruits, granola bars, cookies, apple or cherry turnovers, etc.. And you get to savor the 'eye candy' in the show rooms.... Like a $170K + AMG Roadster in candy apple red.

[T00lman]

Last year we spent $5,000 on our Sprinter 3500 chassis class “C” DEF system- sensors, tank heater, etc. Research (Google) DEF issues. I don’t know what years they had issues but the latest version finally fixed it. MB has had a known problem with their DEF system for several years but refused to acknowledge it. I cannot speak to the maintenance costs of the Ford F53 as we just recently traded our class “C” on a new class “A”, giving up half of the fuel mileage.

[affreeman]

The F53 is a pretty bomb-proof engine. (knock wood!)

Every 5,000 miles I change the oil, oil filter, and air filter. The two filters plus 7 quarts of Mobil 1 usually run about $50. Whenever I change the oil I also grease the front end. I don't remember what it cost to purchase the grease gun and a couple of tubes of grease, but the ongoing cost is nearly zero.

I don't change the oil in my car myself because it's too much of a pain to get access to everything, but there's tons of room under the MH so it's easy to do.

Oh, I also bought and installed a Fumoto valve to make draining the oil pan as simple as possible.

[creativepart]

The F53 Ford is pretty simple and inexpensive to service. I have done my own Oil Filter change once - but not any more. The drain plug is directly above some frame members and it's pretty much impossible to drain the 7-qts of oil without spilling 3-qts of it onto yourself or your driveway. Some folks install a new drain plug that will allow a hose to be attached so you can direct the oil away from the chassis.

Now, I take it into an independent RV shop every 5,000 miles (its going in next week) and the oil, filter, air cleaner and lube cost about $125. When I did it myself it was about $80 to purchase everything. Not counting the ruined tarp that was under the RV when the oil "hit the fan" so to speak.

[Fred K]

My Winn 27pe is a Ford V10. Agree, the cost for oil, filter and lube is about $70 all in and easy to do. You can find a grease gun and will run you about $60. You can take the old oil to a retail tire shop and they’ll dispose of it properly.

[ronbo]

Originally Posted by affreeman

The F53 is a pretty bomb-proof engine. (knock wood!)

Every 5,000 miles I change the oil, oil filter, and air filter. The two filters plus 7 quarts of Mobil 1 usually run about $50. Whenever I change the oil I also grease the front end. I don't remember what it cost to purchase the grease gun and a couple of tubes of grease, but the ongoing cost is nearly zero.

I don't change the oil in my car myself because it's too much of a pain to get access to everything, but there's tons of room under the MH so it's easy to do.

Oh, I also bought and installed a Fumoto valve to make draining the oil pan as simple as possible.

I agree totally with affreeman. Out of all my vehicles, I enjoy working on the F53 the most. I can get under it without jacking it up.

$60.00 plus or minus $10.00 per year for oil changes and chassis lube is all I spend. We drove our rig only a little over 3,000 miles last year but I like to change the oil at the same time each year (February) just as a habit so I don't forget.

There are 9 zerk fittings on the front end to lube and none on the drive shaft U Joints. There are several posts on here talking about how to not spill oil during the oil change but I've found that a shallow plastic pan will fit on top of the axle to catch the oil coming out of the filter. I use a plastic hose on a Fumoto valve to drain the oil and the oil goes right into a container to be taken to the local auto store at my convenience. Or...my recycle truck will take it if it's in their container.

Make sure your container can hold at least 6 qts. I usually get my air filter (Motorcraft # FA1782 or equivalent) and oil filter (Motorcraft FL-820S or equivalent) off Amazon but sometimes O'reilly Auto has the FA1782 air filter for $16.99. The Triton engine takes 6 qts of oil when you change the filter so I buy 2 X 5qts of 5w-20 oil and have a little extra on hand. My truck uses the same oil.

Check the brake pads while you're under there. The pads are hard to see without taking the wheels off but it can be done with a mirror and GOOD flashlight.

Very simple, inexpensive annual maintenance.

[paisleydale]

I think the Mercedes may cost more, but if you can do the maintenance yourself it is not that bad. I have the 5 pin fuel filter (which is the expensive one) I get it off Ebay for $80. The hardest thing for me was removing the factory clamps, finally cut them off and replaced with high pressure fuel clamps which I got a box of them from O'rilley's for $15.

I buy my oil (13 quarts from NAPA) on sale for $5.49 or $5.99 a quart and a WIX filter from O'rilley's for $8.50. Easiest oil change I have ever done.

Mercedes will sell you their parts for lots!! My dealer will install the fuel filter, which I provide them for just $125!! no way, this is why I do it and why I do my oil changes too.

I did pay Mercedes to change the transmission oil and filter for $360.

Now if my headlight lamps would last longer, I have replaced each side twice.

[Tom49Reyo]

We have a 2010 Reyo and I do the oil changes every 10K miles. 13.5 qts Mobil 1 ESP + filter under $90. Fuel filter and trans filter are more than I want to tackle, so goes to my local ASE shop for that. 71K miles and no issues.

[bigfatguy]

I just got a $400 oil change on my Sprinter based ERA.

The thing is, it drives SO MUCH BETTER than the gas models I've tested. I regret nothing about the maintenance costs when I'm passing cars going uphill.

[Kayak73]

We have owned both, the Ford in an Aspect and two Sprinters. The first Sprinter was a 2005 (2006 View) and on that rig I did all the service, oil and fuel filter etc., it was very easy. On the Ford - same thing - very easy and inexpensive. In between there was a DP Breeze and I changed the oil & filter and had a shop do the tranny. Now that was more cash. Back to a Sprinter again and I do the oil & filter. Cost is about $100, need to find the oil, order it and filter, not difficult to do the work at all. Fuel filter will get changed this year but not by me. The cost will probably make me cry.


What the deal is to me is the higher maintenance cost is worth it for the diesel simply because of the higher comfort in driving the diesel vs the gas. That is subjective for every owner but I can tell you when we dumped the gasser class A rig how it felt - GREAT! It took one drive in the DP and after about 10 miles I told the salesman to get the numbers right because I was through with the gasser. So...it is not about the cost of diesel vs gas to me, rather more about the ride. The Sprinter rigs just seem more comfortable while driving down the road vs the gasser. Just know that it normally does cost much more to maintain the diesel than a gas rig and consider how much of the work you really want to tackle. After looking at the location of the fuel filter on the new Sprinter I simply told DW -"that's gonna be a Mother job", Mother Benz that is. Now 15 years ago I would have crawled up into that engine and changed the fuel filter come pain or high water but my perspective has changed considerably as well as my mobility and desire to get "into stuff".