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Old 09-01-2024, 09:53 AM   #1
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No Antenna TV Signal 2012 Sightseer 33C

Hello
I cannot get an over the air signal to my TV's. Power comes on the unit that controls the direction. The red light comes on but I can't get any of the other 4 lights to come on (I used to be able to get 3 or 4). Checked the roof, nothing to see up there. I never had issues before. Am I missing something obvious? I have the TV set to antenna. The TV works with other inputs...........Frustrating
Thanks
Dave
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Old 09-01-2024, 11:27 AM   #2
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Check the tiny, easily missed button on the switchplate where you change from cable to over the air?
Hint for this is if it works for other input like cable, it is NOT set for antenna?
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Old 09-01-2024, 04:06 PM   #3
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sorry to be so naive, what switchplate? I've never touched anything in the past.........
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Old 09-01-2024, 04:34 PM   #4
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Here's a video of a guy looking for this switchplate and finding it. I found the video pretty dumb but it does show you where he found it and what it looks like.

Fast forward to 4 min of this video to see the switchplate with a button.

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Old 09-01-2024, 04:53 PM   #5
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OK, Found it in the overhead cabinet and it's on. I do appreciate the info and your time. No luck with a signal
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Old 09-01-2024, 04:58 PM   #6
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Like this on your RV!
Click for better view!
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Not to suggest this is the only possible problem but it is an easy one to miss and needs to be switched when changing from cable, etc. input to over the air!
Be aware it is a tiny button!
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Old 09-01-2024, 05:03 PM   #7
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ok cross posting!
To get over the Air, you need to do several things, one is to set this switch right as it powers the amp in the ant. head. That should make a set of LED lights come on on the ant. know to lift or swing the ant around to point toward the towers.
There are often knobs to change the amount of gain to get the most LED lights on. They act as a crude "meter" to show how high the level!
As final step, making sure the coax is connect to get the signal to the TV rear but also there may need to be TV program changes to swap from over the air to cable, etc.
That part can depend on the TV and may have some form of "setting" on the TV itself?
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Old 09-01-2024, 05:41 PM   #8
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I'll keep checking connections. It's strange. I'm sure it's something stupid. BTW neither TV is getting a signal so I'm assuming it's not on the TV's themselves
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Old 09-01-2024, 06:19 PM   #9
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Ok, there may be a bit more help onhow the cables were first run when built and how they may still be marked with tape near the ends of the coax.
This is kind of an old and generic setup that Winn has used for years. Don't be put off by the 1993 year in the corner as it is listed as what should have fit for your RV!
One problem with electronics and Rv is that each owner may have different ideas and different equipment, so things get changed over time and the drawings may not be totally correct. But there are color codes on the drawings that may help.
Like blu shows from the ant. to wall plate? Sometimes you just have to spot what you DO know and then sort for what you NEED to know?
These are drawings for lots of different RV with different options and number of TV, etc. so we first have to sort which drawing most likely is what we have.
Once we get the right setup for the plan, we can then begin to look at the colors for what we should see.
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_110138.pdf

How many TV/ And where and what type splitters to feed those?
This is two different setups and location for splitters above the cab.
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Kind of like an Easter egg hunt? First we have to sort which drawings matches what our RV has, find the splitters and then find the color code on the coax to find if it connects things togehter in the way it was built??
OR
Did somebody move things around to add a VCR ,etc. where they thought it best for them?
It may all be there and the drawings may be right but we have to look under ALL the bushes to find it!

Best of luck on the hunt!
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Old 09-08-2024, 04:33 PM   #10
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I had a similar problem and it was the King Amplified Antenna head. I disconnected the cable from the head and measured 12V so I knew the cable and switches were correct. New head fixed the problem.
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Old 09-08-2024, 04:54 PM   #11
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when you say head, do you mean the switch/knob adjust on the ceiling or the unit on the roof?
thanks
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Old 09-08-2024, 05:13 PM   #12
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The unit on the roof. I changed my old bat wing head for a king head a few years ago. When that failed I considered replacing my old crankup with the King Jack Directional Over-the-Air mounted antenna but found out it had a smaller footprint than the crankup and had to order an adaptor. In addition it was several hours labor to remove teh old and install the new and if it failed again start all over. So I changed the head. 2 bolts and a coax connection and 5 minutes.
https://kingconnect.com/king-jack-di...-signal-meter/
Used this one https://kingconnect.com/products/kin...-rv-mount.html
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Old 09-08-2024, 05:24 PM   #13
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thanks, I was afraid it would come to that. I didn't think they go bad!
Thanks for the advice
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Old 09-08-2024, 05:38 PM   #14
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We are in AZ with all that heat. My rig is stored under cover and 13 years old and I am on my 3rd head.
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Old 09-08-2024, 05:58 PM   #15
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Wow, I'm in Fountain Hills. You're right everything cooks here!
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Old 09-08-2024, 06:09 PM   #16
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is this what I need?

https://www.amazon.com/KING-OA8500-D...80&sr=8-1&th=1
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Old 09-09-2024, 01:44 AM   #17
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I just replaced my antenna head in May 2024. The coax cable connection on the antenna head was completely rusted out so I cut the head of the cable off and replaced the connector. Unfortunately, that did not work as the rust had permeated into the antenna head itself. If you replace the antenna head, be sure and replace the rubber boots that cover the connection points. It's not a hard job, but does require being on the roof so be very careful up there.

All three TVs in my coach are crystal clear now.

I have your same coach (2011 model) and have pretty much rewired the bulk of the coax over the past 3 years. Feel free to reach out if you have more questions.
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Old 09-09-2024, 07:21 AM   #18
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When dealing with electrical connections that may be exposed to the weather, there is a way to add some protection beyond the rubber boot.
An industry "standard for corrosion is a grease designed for keeping air and water off connections. Especially made for battery connections but very good for almost any other connection, too.

No-ox-id-a is a special grease! A bit pricey at first thought but a good look around and you can find it much better priced if moving away from specialty shops and Amazon!
I am picky and shop for it in small metal tins for convenience!
If I lay the tin on a trouble light to heat it for a few minutes, it spreads so much thinner and easier, so I feel the tin is worth the extra shopping! Since it is expensive, I like to spread it thinner and it also collects less dirt if thinned!
https://www.google.com/search?q=no-o...hrome&ie=UTF-8

If hot water is on hand and you have the plastic container, setting it in hot water can be handy. Some set it on the hot truck radiator when in the field! But you can also melt the plastic if not watching!

A layer just thick enough to stop air and water is all you need.
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Old Today, 04:28 PM   #19
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Success

Success. I did need the head. Upon inspection the old antenna had a broken wire inside. The "stops" to prevent the antenna from rotating to far were broken and as a result the antenna had been rotated a bunch of times and eventually twisted the wire until it broke. I purchased a new antenna and with a little effort swapped it out. I recommend getting the optional mounting plate if you ever need to do this. Back in business! Thanks for the time and comments to point me in the right direction.
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Old Today, 04:34 PM   #20
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And all because a little stop broke off!
Sometimes life is like that. While we watch the big stuff some little buggie thing gets to us!
Thanks for letting everybody know what you found!
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