Painted the Rear Bumper Today

[corvettec3]

I finally got around to painting my rear bumper this morning after repairing a few dings and scratches. I used the original Dupont Urethane paint and it is beautiful stuff to work with...anyone can spray it on

[CaptBill]

That looks like a beautiful job you did there. Tell us more about the painting process and equipment you used. BTW, that looks to be the same color as my '02 Horizon rear bumper and storage bay doors.

Someone told me that Winnebago used Imron paint, but you found out it is DuPont urethane? Did you just order it from an autoparts supply, or directly from WGO?

[corvettec3]

Originally Posted by CaptBill

That looks like a beautiful job you did there. Tell us more about the painting process and equipment you used. BTW, that looks to be the same color as my '02 Horizon rear bumper and storage bay doors.

Someone told me that Winnebago used Imron paint, but you found out it is DuPont urethane? Did you just order it from an autoparts supply, or directly from WGO?

Hi Bill. The color is Platinum Metallic Dupont Code F2528. Dupont was the supplier of all paint to Winnebago in 1999. I am not sure when or if that has changed. I had some damage to the right rear corner as a result of my brother backing into it with his truck. I was able to repair it from the backside using fiberglass resin and cloth. I was then able to fill the front side with 3M Bondo. I only primed the section that I repaired. I prepped the remainder with 360 grit. I wiped the surface down with lacquer thinner and then went over it with a tack rag. I used a cheap siphon feed paint gun requiring 50 psi pressure. My local Dupont dealer mixed the paint for me. The paint is 4:1:2 mix (ie) 4 parts paint, 1 part catalyst, and 2 parts reducer. You have about 50 minutes to use the paint once it is mixed. Dupont recommend a couple of coats 15 min apart. Urethane is simple to apply and you really have to try hard to create runs. I bought a quart of paint and really that is enough to go around the entire motor home. I mixed 10 times more than I needed but once mixed it is history after an hour. It is no big deal Bill, just practice on a piece of cardboard until you have the gun figured out and you will be good to go.

[ladagobago]

I have been unable to find the formula for the tint. how did your supplier know what the tint should be for the chieftain?

ladagobago
99 Chieftain DP

[rlott2k]

How did you find the finish once complete? I notice your outdoors, what about overspray? Leave much mess? The whole lower band of my 96 Adventurer need repainting and I've often thought about doing it myself. Can't see paying thousands for a shop to do it.

[FIRE UP]

Corvettec3,
Looks way cool. Nice job. I've done a bit of painting myself on various items in the past. I too have used Dupont Imron. It was back in Dec of '78 and it was a metallic Red. Back then, Imron Red was $78.00 per gallon. That was astronomical back then. As for Imron now, here in CA, it's getting harder and harder for paints like Imron to be purchased. I've used the lower line of Dupont too called "Centauri" and, it too is a very forgiving paint.

I've done whole cars with cheap, siphon guns and , many, like yours, were done in a garage or, just outside. Reading your comments on elapsed time once the paint is mixed, I was reminded of my Red job I was doing on my '79 Ford F-350 and, I too mixed the hardner and paint. When done with (4) coats, I had some left in the container. So, I poured it into a clean mayonnaise Jar with a good lid.

The next day, I came out to look at my nice paint job and picked up the jar of paint, thinking I'd have some touchup if and when needed, WRONG That paint, had hardened in that jar. It was like a super ball. (remember those?). Anyway, no touch up.

But, I've since acquired two smaller, Harbor Freight gravity feed guns and a small, siphon Jamb gun. I love painting but, absolutely hate the prep. By the way, you were asked about the overspray. Do your neighbors mind you spraying paint? Some can get real panache. Mine are cool. I just tell one or two of them so they can move their cars if needed so any overspray wouldn't drift onto them.

Anyway, good work.
Scott

[corvettec3]

Originally Posted by ladagobago

I have been unable to find the formula for the tint. how did your supplier know what the tint should be for the chieftain?

ladagobago
99 Chieftain DP

I just gave him the code and he mixed it up in a few minutes.

[corvettec3]

Scott, I do so much work for my neighbors that that they wouldn't complain if their windows were fogging up with paint. There is very little overspray with this particular type of paint.

[corvettec3]

Originally Posted by rlott2k

How did you find the finish once complete? I notice your outdoors, what about overspray? Leave much mess? The whole lower band of my 96 Adventurer need repainting and I've often thought about doing it myself. Can't see paying thousands for a shop to do it.

That type of paint makes very little mess and although I did paint a few cars in my young and crazy years almost an idiot could spray this and do a great job.

[vacuumbulb]

Just a note from from a novice painter. Imron is no longer being made. You may find some left over in the larger automotive paint stores. I used Valspar urethane for painting my coach. Valspar is a superior urethane. 4 weeks ago I had my whole coach painted.The white that I used was a single stage paint mixed 1:1, paint and reducer. Because the white was such a large area I chose to use the single stage paint and put on two coats. The two stage green was used on the lower valance panels. One coat of green and one good coat of clear coat. One nice thing about using clear coat is if you get a sag you can sand and buff it out. A sag in the base coat especially with metallic is almost impossible to fix short of letting it dry and sanding off the bad spot. I used a HVLP gun from Harbour Freight. This $16 gun does a credible job. It's a long story why I had to paint my coach. You can go to the Winnebago web site and get your paint codes. Any good auto paint store can duplicate your color. Preparation, preparation, preparation is the key to a good job. Another note, I was advised by my paint shop owner to NOT use lacquer thinner to wipe down, use alcohol and a good tack rag. Also a safety note, use a respirator, urethane KILLS.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by vacuumbulb

Just a note from from a novice painter. Imron is no longer being made. You may find some left over in the larger automotive paint stores. I used Valspar urethane for painting my coach. Valspar is a superior urethane. 4 weeks ago I had my whole coach painted.The white that I used was a single stage paint mixed 1:1, paint and reducer. Because the white was such a large area I chose to use the single stage paint and put on two coats. The two stage green was used on the lower valance panels. One coat of green and one good coat of clear coat. One nice thing about using clear coat is if you get a sag you can sand and buff it out. A sag in the base coat especially with metallic is almost impossible to fix short of letting it dry and sanding off the bad spot. I used a HVLP gun from Harbour Freight. This $16 gun does a credible job. It's a long story why I had to paint my coach. You can go to the Winnebago web site and get your paint codes. Any good auto paint store can duplicate your color. Preparation, preparation, preparation is the key to a good job. Another note, I was advised by my paint shop owner to NOT use lacquer thinner to wipe down, use alcohol and a good tack rag. Also a safety note, use a respirator, urethane KILLS.

Vacuumbulb,
I knew Imron was being phased out, not painting as often as I did several years ago, I just didn't know how soon it would be gone. Now days, I only paint something about every few years so, I don't keep up on what's the latest and greatest of new modern paints. Besides, as stated before, California is such a pain in the a$$ state for just about EVERYTHING, that good paint, is getting harder and harder to purchase.
Scott

[ladagobago]

I called Dupont for information on the F2528 code shown on the Winnebago site and they were unable to help me find any such paint code. My first email from a winnebago email inquiry was "did you try a paint shop". well, sure I did.

Finally I called the support number and they said well try to put a "K" after the number and that did little to support the code search on the internet. After a while I asked them to send me the formula. it appears they invented the number and the formula that they mix themselves at the factory.

now that I have the formula I will attempt to find a supplier. I really want to make my Chieftain all that it can be. especially after converting my son's mailbox post to an inground ornament while exiting his driveway.

Just as an aside to refinishing. I was having reservations about painting the white body of the fiberglass that had gotten chalky and faded. after a real good cleaning and burnishing with 1600 paper, I applied several coats of a clear acrylic floor wax with a micro fiber applicator. this brought up the finish to a very nice shine and has remained so for at least a year.

my first attempt was the roof which alway got dirty and filled with black mold like the roof a house. after the application of several coats, on a cool cloudy day, it sealed the surface pores and eliminated the black streaks down the side. so after 6 months I did the sides. I am very please with the outcome on this old coach and it is also nice not to have the regular waxing and rubbing with conventional finish restorations.
la DAGOBAGO
99 Chieftain DP

[corvettec3]

If you Google Dupont F2528 the very first listing gives the mix table for the paint. Sounds like Dupont need to start using Google. I just went down to my local Napa shop who mix Dupont paints here in my town and the guy found the code in seconds. Here are a couple of pictures I took this morning. The paint is a 4:1:2 mix (paint, catalyst, reducer)

http://lusid.naterby.com/mixmaster/c...rmula_id=11152

[rlott2k]

Originally Posted by ladagobago

I called Dupont for information on the F2528 code shown on the Winnebago site and they were unable to help me find any such paint code. My first email from a winnebago email inquiry was "did you try a paint shop". well, sure I did.

Finally I called the support number and they said well try to put a "K" after the number and that did little to support the code search on the internet. After a while I asked them to send me the formula. it appears they invented the number and the formula that they mix themselves at the factory.

now that I have the formula I will attempt to find a supplier. I really want to make my Chieftain all that it can be. especially after converting my son's mailbox post to an inground ornament while exiting his driveway.

Just as an aside to refinishing. I was having reservations about painting the white body of the fiberglass that had gotten chalky and faded. after a real good cleaning and burnishing with 1600 paper, I applied several coats of a clear acrylic floor wax with a micro fiber applicator. this brought up the finish to a very nice shine and has remained so for at least a year.

my first attempt was the roof which alway got dirty and filled with black mold like the roof a house. after the application of several coats, on a cool cloudy day, it sealed the surface pores and eliminated the black streaks down the side. so after 6 months I did the sides. I am very please with the outcome on this old coach and it is also nice not to have the regular waxing and rubbing with conventional finish restorations.
la DAGOBAGO
99 Chieftain DP

I've heard of this floor sealer application and have read some good things (yes only for old faded rigs) Glad it worked for you.