Questions Regarding Windshield Leak

Kent0826 · 12-12-2014, 03:50 PM

I have a windshield leak on my 2015 Adventurer 38Q purchased in June 2014. I have only noticed water in the center of the dash after prolong rains. I took the front cabinet inside top and rear panels out so as to reveal how the water was coming in. In the photo below the brackets are at the center of the coach. Water can be seen weeping from the sealant between the brackets. The metal shelf is the upper of two metal shelves that run horizontally the width of the coach. Between the upper and lower shelves (about 7-9") I can see the windshield with the black painted upper portion. I assume it is “bonded” to the vertical horizontal metal frame attached to the brackets? Am I correct in assuming the glass is bonded via the white sealant seen in the photo?

The exterior photo shows the black moulding that I assume is "wedged" between the cap and windshield glass. Question: Can I pull that moulding out? And if so what will I see? The top edge of the windshield glass? The bottom edge of the cap? And white sealant between the two. I assume I should not be seeing any of the black metal frame? Since the black moulding is not sealed I assume water can easily enter into the space the moulding covers correct? And the water runs out the bottom of the moulding or the side ends? And without any sealant voids there shouldn’t be any leakage. Is this how it works? Would appreciate any corrections to my understanding. Based on what I’ve presented so far am I correct in assuming that there is a void in the sealant in the center of the coach. And further caulking should correct the situation? Thanks for your input.

bobmac · 12-12-2014, 06:13 PM

Sorry to see you have a leak. I believe the top molding is just pressure fitted and is cosmetic rather than functional in preventing leaks. I would suspect that a void in the adhesive /sealant holding the window to the frame is a possibility but unlikely.I doubt removing the molding would provide much insight into the problem. I had a leak in the same area and it turned out to be poor caulking around the front clearance lights. I have read of others that have had the same problem with the caulking and would suggest that you check there first so see if everything is properly caulked. It should be much simpler to correct a problem there.
Good luck,

Johndale · 12-12-2014, 07:10 PM

I just fixed mine this past summer and the seal just pulls off.On mine there was a couple of screws on the end but no big deal to remove.The main place I found were the water comes in is on the front cap were it over laps the frame.When it rains the water goes down the roof and follows the little gutter. So you have 2 issues here.remove the top black trim and seal it using the standard auto sealant and on the cap use the non flow calking Making sure you get under the lip. After I fixed mine went under heavy rain and no more leaks.Do not try to eject sealer under the black trim because it will only make a mess. Thats what the RV place did to mine and when I made it back home I tore it all down and found the leak at the windshield but not the source were it was coming from after about 4 hours later found it. and with a water hose BINGO.

grtharris · 12-12-2014, 07:15 PM

Yes the black molding just pops in. Once you remove the molding you can run some water in the top of the windshield and see if your leak is there or higher up.

zippo · 12-12-2014, 07:39 PM

Just my idea on the leak. My 2008 has leaked from day one new. Dealer and I have applied sealer a number of times thinking we got it this time. I've sealed it and let it sit 4 to 6 months and never a leak Drive it 200 to 500 miles and it leaks again. I have decided somehow there is movement in the front cap breaking the seal and causing it to leak again. On edit I forgot to say the water gets in mine on the passenger side top of the windshield, a spot about 3 to 4 inches long starting at the edge. I and the dealer have tried using a flowable sealant just a little thicker than water. Works but drive it and it leaks again!

Johndale · 12-12-2014, 08:17 PM

Also on older ones like mine check the gutters if you have a hard roof mine needed reselling. But the main part of the leak is the cap sides.

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RTegarini · 12-12-2014, 10:28 PM

If it's the same seal that Winnebago has used for many years, such as around the top, bottom and middle of my two-piece windshield, it's called reveal molding. I can also tell you that if it's reveal molding, it is not moisture, rain or water proof, and has cost Winnebago/Itasca owners thousands in repair costs. It's an issue that Winnebago absolutely refuses to acknowledge or help in the repair costs.

It's beyond me why owners have not done a class-action lawsuit, since this type of problem dates back to at least 1999 models. I've always laughed at the thought that as consumers, we give far less leeway to manufactures of our cell phones, T.V.'s and refrigerators than Winnebago with their non-sealing reveal molding. -RT

forest · 12-13-2014, 10:40 AM

Contact your dealer and have them talk to Winnebago tech service. It is covered under warranty, and they need to hear about it.

AFChap · 12-13-2014, 11:46 AM

You have a new coach under warranty. Contact the dealer, but I strongly recommend you also contact Winnebago Owner Relations at [email protected] and/or 800-537-1885, and send the pictures to them. And provde your coach s/n. That will ensure the issue is noted for future warranty issues, and will also ensure Winnebago is aware and involved in the repair. You will get the service you need with them involved, although it may sometimes require going to a dealer with a more cmpetent service staff. Too many times I had dealers tell me Winnebago would not cover something when I believe the dealer was just too lazy to contact them.

Falcon190 · 12-13-2014, 12:31 PM

I had an inside leak on the PS windshield. Unfortunately (or fortunately) about a year ago that windshield developed a crack about a foot long and had to be replaced. When the broken glass was removed it revealed a mess. After the old seal and rust (it was pretty bad) were scraped away, the new glass sat perfectly and there's been no leaks since. And the plus is that it was covered by my insurance and only cost the $100 deductible.

ladagobago · 12-13-2014, 04:32 PM

This widow leak crap with winnebago has gone on long enough. I agree that somehow we all should file a class action suit against them to make corrections on our leaking MH. It isn't rocket science and they are the great violators of sales trust ever.
here is my simple diagram which illustrates where the water enters and where the water accumulates forming rust on the steel frame. the hole problem was solved on my MH by cleaning, prepping and sealing the space so water can not accumulate. I also ran black vinyl tape over the rubber molding to seal it against water intrusion. Of course, this isn't the only water leak area problem. the roof edge is also a major contributor to water accumulating in the steel channel front to back.

Journey39n · 12-13-2014, 04:50 PM

Leaks can be very tricky, as usually the water travels (far) from where the leak actually is, to where the drips occur.
On my two RVs, a 2003 Itasca, and a 2010 Winnebago, both developed drips in the front, above the windshield it seemed. But both were caused by the roof caulking at the front cap. The 2003 was easy to spot, and repair, just an age problem. But on the 2010, even pressurizing the interior failed to find the leak. But after a year of looking, I finally found a flap of caulking on the passenger side, roof joint where the front cap overlaps the roof sheet, and bends down to the side. It had broken loose in the way that water could enter when running forward in the gutter, but if pressurized from inside, the flap would seal. I cut it all out, used the proper polyurethane sealant, recaulked the entire front cap seal, and it hasbeen through many Seattle and Oregon deluges since, and no more dripping in the front.

So I would recommend you really check that front cap joint seal. The drips will flow down to the inside top of the windshield. The joint itself will move slightly when the coach is in motion, so very important to use the right kind of sealant.

2adrift · 12-13-2014, 07:03 PM

one remaining place, my 2005 Voyage had one of the 3 front clearance lights leaking such that I could see water in the lens and leak back through the coach, this is probably in addition to all the other places I kept fixing. Replaced and that finally took care of most of my leakage down the front and on my center area of the dash.

ghutch · 12-15-2014, 03:52 PM

The first sentence of your post indicates that the coach is very likely still under warranty. Before I would touch any area of the leak, I would take it to a Winnebago dealer for documentation and review your options with the dealer, or possibly a factory visit. Not only is this issue problematic for Winnebago, you will be on your own after 12 months. Get it repaired by a dealer ASAP so you will have record of the issue.

lwasouth · 12-17-2014, 03:11 PM

I agree with all of the responses, but when I had a windshield leak (and could tell it was the windshield) I removed the top rubber molding. It just pulls out if a groove and goes back the same way. With a toothbrush, soap and water I cleaned the gap between the windshield and the metal frame. Wiped it out and let it dry. I purchased a tube of black 3M Trim Cement. (Never use silicone it won't stick)Flow the cement along the gap, to almost fill gap along the top of the windshield. I did this 3 years ago and leak has not reoccurred, nor have any new ones. Note: Always open a door or window when you bring your slides in, to eliminate the pressure on the windshield

Kent0826 · 12-17-2014, 05:08 PM

I appreciate all the responses and the sketch from ladagobago - very helpful. I went ahead and pulled out the moulding. I do not know how it is attached at the ends so left it be. (See photo). There is what I assume to be an aluminum channel sandwiched between the upper fiberglass cap and bottom glass. The moulding has an arrow shaped center which locks into the channel. (See sketch) The gap between the bottom channel and top glass was well sealed. The bottom portion of the moulding which covered that gap and window was dry.

The small gap between the top of the channel and bottom of the fiberglass cap (1/16 +/-) wide) had many voids. (See two photos) The upper portion of the moulding which covered that gap and cap contained a lot of water. This must be the source of the leak.
Question 1: What would be the appropriate sealant to use along the top channel and cap?
Question 2: Would you advise sealing the upper portion of the moulding to the cap to eliminate water from entering?
Question 3: How is the moulding attached at the ends? How is that side vertical piece attached? Shouldn’t that be removed to assess the condition of end seals?

It appears that the construction is ok but a lousy job of applying the sealants. Although without sealing the moulding to the cap and thus allowing water to enter is problematic even with proper sealing of everything.

Thanks again.

bgsc · 12-17-2014, 05:16 PM

Had a similar problem a friend of mine who retired from the Toronto transit said they used to use a product called "Sica flex" he installed that product between the fibreglass and the rubber gasket problem solved

lwasouth · 12-17-2014, 06:54 PM

Sicko Flex is a great product but very hard to find. I have used it on a number of difficult locations. I purchased it from "Jamestown distributing.com" Use a caulking gun, cut the smallest possible hole in tip. Have a rag handy with Xylol on it for cleanup. That channel the rubber goes into is plastic and only held on by a pressure sensitive tape strip. You sound like me - avoid dealers at all costs

bobmac · 12-17-2014, 07:16 PM

I think you are talking about Sikaflex. It is a commonly used marine sealant that is widely available from West Marine or other marine supply places. There are several different product lines of which marine is one and multiple products within each line. You will need to sort out which product best suits your needs and go from there. Their products are also widely used in RV construction.
There is also a wide range of marine sealants made by 3M that parallel the Sikaflex line. To get started, try searching for 3M 4200 or 5200 and you will see the differences. I have used 5200 to attach things in the RV basement and it is extremely durable as well as permanent. If future removal is anticipated, be sure to select a product that can be removed.
I would think that most RV applications would be better addressed by automotive products and they would be less costly although the marine products would to the job.

grtharris · 12-17-2014, 10:23 PM

Kent0826, You have to remove the interior A-pillar cover to access the attachment nuts. I just happen to have a 3-D cad view from the top looking down at the molding. My left side is setting on top of the fiberglass cap at the top and I need to move it a little to the rear.