Rear engine hood coming loose - Page 2

Hikerdogs · 07-29-2008, 08:02 AM

I used this stuff to repair our coach. Since then we've put on over 20,000 miles without any problems.

To use a standard caulking gun all you need to do is make an adaptor to replace the plate that pushes down on a single tube of caulk. I made one out of a 1/4" x 1" x 3" piece of flat stock and 2- 1/4" x 4" carriage bolts.

Do a search on "Weld Bond Adhesive"

Here's part of the MSDS sheet for the stuff I used last year to bond the headlight bracket to the inside of the grille. It's meant to be used by body shops for securing plastic panels to metal frames.

It's not cheap at about $45.00 for a 7 oz. tube. It's a 2 part adhesive that gets mixed as it flows through the special end that fits on the tube pack. They sell a gun for dispensing it but you can easily modify a standard caulking gun to do the job. We've put over 15,000 miles on the coach since the repair and there haven't been any problems.

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET
WBA TDS
10/06
Description
39537 WELD-BOND ADHESIVE is a non-sag, two component methacrylate adhesive system formulated to bond metal surfaces without the use of an external primer. 39537 provides long working times (45-60 minutes) allowing body shops to correctly position parts for proper alignment. This adhesive contains glass beads to insure adequate bond line control. 39537 is an easy to use 1:1 adhesive that forms resilient bonds and maintains its strength over a wide range of temperatures. 39537 is suitable for bonding a variety of substrates especially automotive grade cold rolled steel. Recommended substrates include steel, galvanized steel, e-coat, aluminum and stainless steel.

James Norman · 07-30-2008, 08:24 AM

Checked on the two brackets, right front fender and rear hood. The brackets feel really solid and it look like the brackets will hold well. For how long, we'll see. I won't be able to reconnect everything tell next week. Then well see if the front bracket can pull in the fender and hold!

wagonmaster2 · 07-30-2008, 08:54 AM

For anyone who has drilled thru the hoods and put bolts or screws in ---- Is there any good secret to drilling thru the fiberglass hoods without chipping the paint or cracking the fiberglass when the drill bit starts chewing through?? I know other hard surfaces I've drilled holes in can chip off chunks when the edges of the drill first start cutting into it. Just don't want any more damage than necessary. Dreading that first drill bit touch into the paint. Thanks a lot for any suggestions.
Wagonmaster2

SteveG · 07-30-2008, 11:10 AM

Wagonmaster2, I am no expert on this subject, but what I do is use multiple sharp bits, depending on the size hole and keep the drill square to the hole and use a light touch.

Even so, if the fasterner will accomodate it, I usually plan on using a finish washer which will hide any small nicks. See photo below.

wagonmaster2 · 07-30-2008, 05:38 PM

Thanks Steve, I wondered if starting with a smaller bit and gradually increasing the size would help. I'll try that approach. My first attempt will be on the side of the rear hood of my DP so I guess any small screw-up won't show too much, and I'll definitely use a little larger flat washer under the head of the screw.
Wagonmaster2

amanda_h · 07-31-2008, 09:13 AM

We're sorry for being so naive but...

Where are you guys talking about?

When you say "rear engine hood," do you mean the door that opens up where you check the oil and tranny fluid? Can somebody take a picture from a few feet away so we'll know?

I know that whenever you guys talk about some problem, even though it hasn't happened to us yet, it will usually happen at some point.

Thanks!

wagonmaster2 · 07-31-2008, 08:09 PM

Yes Amanda - the rear hood we're talking about is the one you open to check your engine fluids. Also the hood in front that you open to check your generator fluids can be the same problem. Winnebago actually glued the fiberglass cover to the metal frame-work of the hoods instead of bolting them together and this adhesive will eventually break loose. My rear hood has come loose on the passenger's side so I'm going to bolt it back on, that side anyway. Be sure to keep watch on the openings at both ends of your coach.
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G

wagonmaster2 · 07-31-2008, 08:12 PM

Oh, sorry about the NO Pictures. I don't have a digital camera and I'm definitely not computer wise enough to know how to post pictures even if I had the camera. Maybe someone else can.
Wagonmaster

amanda_h · 07-31-2008, 08:44 PM

Thanks, Wagonmaster! We'll be sure to anticipate and keep an eye out for this.

SCVJeff · 07-31-2008, 09:22 PM

Having drilled through my boat hull that has a very thick gel coat, I started off by hand drilling (that means a drill bit and my hand) thats one size larger than the hole I intend to drill so I don't catch any of the skin before I get in there with a real drill motor. But I don't know any better and this works.