Roof to sidewall joint

cef2lion · 09-22-2011, 10:32 AM

I have a 2004 Adventurer. Noticed carpet wet a bit under passenger side window. Checked the window tracks. Seem ok. There was a gap at top of window in caulking. Corrected that. Still leaking. Looking at the awming mount and the roof to sidewall joint. The roof to sidewall joint is broken right above the leak area. I have looked over the front cap as well and it appears sealed well.

I have searched and read about this. I have the service tip on roof to sidewall joint. I also have the sealant callout sheet for my unit. Looking at the service tip diagram of the roof cap to sideway. Is that joint just to keep the roof cap in place or if the joint is broken can water get in? Looks like water would get behind the awning rail but would it have to then travel up to get into the sideway?

Also, how do you remove the old sidewall joint to apply a new bead? If you get an edge up does it peel out? Guessing not. Been raining off and on and not really getting time to address it. Wondering if there might be a quick fix on that joint until I get a dry spell the do the entire joint on that side. Like to get the leak stopped for now.

Craig

Clay L · 09-22-2011, 11:39 AM

Here is a cross section of the joint.

Customer service told me they use a flexible knife to cut along the fiberglass and gutter, then pull the sealant out. They said to replace the sealant for several inches on each side of the area where the sealant is failing. The sealant they used on mine is Manus-Bond 75-AM from Manus Products Waconia MN. 952 442 3323.

They recommend checking the entire seam on each side twice a year.
This maintains the 10 year warranty. You push on the fiberglass next to the sealant and see if it moves away (very small crack) from the gutter or fiberglass.

cef2lion · 09-22-2011, 12:52 PM

Thanks for the information. If the sealant has failed at this joint. Can it introduce water like I'm seeing. Or is this joint more to secure the roof to the side panel. I have separation of the joint and plan to take care of that and inspect both sides the length of the RV. But I also nned to track down the source of the water leak.

Craig

Joe83 · 09-22-2011, 07:12 PM

It is possible for the wall-floor joint to wick in water. Get it fixed before you have delamination proplems.

Journey39n · 09-23-2011, 03:03 AM

On my rig, quite new at the 12 month living in it for us point, I noticed some spots along the main awning/drip rail that were pulling away from the side wall.

My problem was spotted under the drip rail, not above it. In any case, I figured it would only get worse with time and it needed to be fixed.

Winnebago was very specific in their instructions on the fix. The whole roof edge front to back would need to be lifted to get to the fastening screws.

Winnebago approved the work, my dealer stripped the caulking, untucked the fiberglass roof edge, replaced several broken screws, tucked the fiberglass back into the rail, and recaulked the whole edge. End product looked as good as new (as far as I could see), and I was back in my home park by the end of the day.

My dealer said this was not a frequent problem, but not necessarily rare either. It was not their first time doing this repair. But I was very happy with their work. Rain all the next night, no leaks, very happy.

Clay L · 09-23-2011, 07:52 AM

There are weep holes that I would think would let any water that gets past the sealant come out. But I would call Winnebago and see what they say. They have been helpful when I have called.

45acp · 09-23-2011, 03:11 PM

I just finished my entire roof including vents. I did not have any interior leakage however I did have a small stream of water running down the inside of the exterior wall when it rained so I inspected the entire roof and found many problems. The previous owner had done many patches with various products. I removed all of the sealant with a razor blade scraper and "scotch brite pads".
The most difficult to remove is the RTV product but it also seemed to hold up much better than any of the other products that had been used. It took about a week to do the whole thing but thats in Tucson where its 90-100 by noon and I would quit by the time it hit 90. Bill

J&SW · 10-01-2011, 12:45 AM

I read on other similar threads that it is pretty hard for the water to wick up and over the side, but can happen. I used a putty knife to remove old material. Just run the knife along both edges of the old material. It came out easily once you got it going. I used rubbing alcohol to get rid of any residue, and that worked well. I also used the Manus 75 product. Hard to find, but I got a case, enough to last several replacement cycles.

bachler · 10-01-2011, 11:38 AM

Back a couple years ago, at a rally There were several coaches that that had happened to The fiber glass flap just came out and was sticking out... I went into Misquete , to a mearine/boat shop picked up a couple tubes of sealer . cleaned out the slot Put new sealer into it pressed the flap in . and no more problems.. One word of advice. DON"T GO TO THE LOCAL HOMEBOX STORE AND BUY SILICONE. Or that will be the begainning of much larger problems.. life is good;;

RVJeeper · 11-10-2011, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clay L

Customer service told me they use a flexible knife to cut along the fiberglass and gutter, then pull the sealant out. They said to replace the sealant for several inches on each side of the area where the sealant is failing. The sealant they used on mine is Manus-Bond 75-AM from Manus Products Waconia MN. 952 442 3323.

They recommend checking the entire seam on each side twice a year.
This maintains the 10 year warranty. You push on the fiberglass next to the sealant and see if it moves away (very small crack) from the gutter or fiberglass.

I just checked my roof caulk and honestly didn't know about this roof-to-wall seam. Much to my dismay the caulk has completely failed in several spots and needs to be redone ASAP. I'm surprised that we haven't had any leaks yet!

Before I head for the local Winnie dealer and pay 2 arms and a leg for the caulk does anyone have a less expensive source for it?

cbeierl · 11-10-2011, 08:24 PM

According to this posting http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/roof...tml#post937079 Henry 212 is a US-equivalent of their Canadian Stone Mason brand which Winnebago was using. It's available at Home Depot for about $8.50 a tube.

bachler · 11-11-2011, 07:50 AM

I once had a problem With leaking.. It was one on the lights. Had to REMOVE the light And Merine seal it UNDER the light. No more problems.. You must keep any water from leaking . as it may get between the walls. If it does you get real problems. Like DELAMINATION;; Then the coach is Junk. Keep it sealed. Life is good

vb98 · 05-11-2015, 09:36 PM

Did they remove the front and rear caps to accomplish this repair??

vb98 · 05-11-2015, 09:53 PM

Did they remove the front and rear caps to accomplish this repair??