Slide Extend-Retract Switch

limandlin · 08-21-2011, 11:03 AM

The rear bedroom slide extend-retract switch has gone bad on my 2002 Journey 36GD. I see no screws holding it in. How do I remove that switch so I can replace it?

smlranger · 08-21-2011, 02:36 PM

On my '02 Journey 36GD, the switch is just pushed into the opening and held by clips at top and bottom.

Curious....what is it doing to make you think it is bad? If you are not able to deploy the slide, try again with the engine running. Also, I could not deploy my rear slide (even with the engine running) and thought the switch was bad. I got under the coach and checked all the connectors at the hydraulic pump. One of the big connectors was just barely disengaged. I pushed it together and the slide worked fine.

limandlin · 08-28-2011, 11:14 PM

I had the switch replaced once before for a similar condition. Today I cleaned up the HWH pump area with simple green. I found one of the red wires going to one of the solendoids was loose. Hopefully this fixed the intermitent switch issue. I'll test it tomorrow when wires and connections have dried from the washing.

limandlin · 08-29-2011, 10:38 PM

Nope, the loose wire was not the problem. The switch works a couple of times, slide in, slide out, then nothing. If I wait several minutes, the switch works again. Any suggestions?

gMw · 08-30-2011, 11:00 AM

My Journey had a similar problem, the switch worked intermittently (worked when it wanted to :-). I replaced the switch, but that didn’t fix the problem. I checked voltages and found there was a voltage drop between the switch and the solenoid. I installed a relay at the solenoid, problem solved..

limandlin · 08-30-2011, 11:52 AM

Thanks for the info gMw. I'm not much on electrical, but I do think I see 2 solenoids mounted on the HWH pump. How do I tell which one is for the rear slide? I have 2 slides in addition to the leveling system. Next question, how do I use my vom to check for a voltage drop between switch and that solenoid? I wouldn't know how to insert a relay, but if the voltage drop exists I'll have the RV tech check into that. Thanks.

DAN L · 08-30-2011, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limandlin

Thanks for the info gMw. I'm not much on electrical, but I do think I see 2 solenoids mounted on the HWH pump. How do I tell which one is for the rear slide? I have 2 slides in addition to the leveling system. Next question, how do I use my vom to check for a voltage drop between switch and that solenoid? I wouldn't know how to insert a relay, but if the voltage drop exists I'll have the RV tech check into that. Thanks.

irv2 went down for maintenance early this morning when i was trying to make this post...
if you idle your engine while extending and retracting the slides, a higher voltage will be available. i also idle my engine when extending the leveling jacks.

wa8yxm · 08-30-2011, 05:02 PM

Kill all 12 volt power (unplug, disconnect batteries) Cycle switch 50-100 times in both IN and OUT direction.. Restore power and see if it helps.

Advantages of this method: Zero tools, (Well your fingers) Zero cost.

Disadvantage: Low chance of success. but when you consider the cost (ZERO) V/s the benefit (it might work) still a good bet.

smlranger · 08-30-2011, 07:16 PM

I lived with the intermittent rear slide problem for 5 years. Sometimes starting the engine would make the slide work, sometimes not. Once, I had to get under the coach and tap on those relays to get it going.

Last year during a visit to the factory in Forest City, they diagnosed my problem. One of those automotive-type (looks like a starter solenoid) relays was bad. They replaced it and I've had no more issues.

limandlin · 08-30-2011, 08:23 PM

Thanks all for the info. I'll try running the engine and see if the intermittment problem is resolved. If so, I'll have the RV tech replace the relay for the rear slide. I'll also try the poor mans fix of pressing the slide switch 50 times. The price is right.
I have an appt this Firiday to have the Norcold recall "box" replaced for the 3rd time. It works intermittently, then the red light flashes once per second, then may work again (or not) after several minutes. Getting pretty tired of the poor quality of the recall device. I carry a jumper wire now to connect the 12v in directly to the 12v out, thus bypassing the box and allowing my fridge to work.

DAN L · 08-30-2011, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limandlin

Thanks all for the info. I'll try running the engine and see if the intermittment problem is resolved. If so, I'll have the RV tech replace the relay for the rear slide. I'll also try the poor mans fix of pressing the slide switch 50 times. The price is right.
I have an appt this Firiday to have the Norcold recall "box" replaced for the 3rd time. It works intermittently, then the red light flashes once per second, then may work again (or not) after several minutes. Getting pretty tired of the poor quality of the recall device. I carry a jumper wire now to connect the 12v in directly to the 12v out, thus bypassing the box and allowing my fridge to work.

you might try shooting contact cleaner into the switch when you are exercising it 50 times.

contact cleaner and exercising my thermostat slide switch helped it last almost 6 months longer, enough time for me to find a place that had the thermostat for a more reasonable price.

limandlin · 08-31-2011, 12:45 PM

I started the engine to see if the intermittent rear slide issue went away. It did. No problem moving the slide in and out several times. In addition, the clicking sound from under the hood on the driver side when extending jacks also went away. I assume this was the clicking of a relay receiving insufficient voltage. I will have all relays replaced on Friday. Has anyone else experienced the clicking sound when extending jacks? I thought relays were all located (attached) to the HWH pump, but the relay for the jacks must be up front under the hood?

Lindsay Richards · 08-31-2011, 07:21 PM

Could you not just not engage the parking brake when exercising the switch?

smlranger · 09-01-2011, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by limandlin

I started the engine to see if the intermittent rear slide issue went away. It did. No problem moving the slide in and out several times. In addition, the clicking sound from under the hood on the driver side when extending jacks also went away. I assume this was the clicking of a relay receiving insufficient voltage. I will have all relays replaced on Friday. Has anyone else experienced the clicking sound when extending jacks? I thought relays were all located (attached) to the HWH pump, but the relay for the jacks must be up front under the hood?

I have the same coach and all my relays related to the HWH hydraulic system are attached to the pump/manifold assembly under the living room slide. The electronic control box for the HWH system is attached to the inside of the firewall to the left of the steering column. I've never had to access that box (hope I never have to) but I wonder if the clicking you are hearing is coming from that??

Have you checked your chassis battery voltage or otherwise assured they are in good shape. Before I had the bad relay replaced on my HWW system, the rear slide would work without the motor running if the chassis batteries were top of charge.

RickO · 09-01-2011, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

Have you checked your chassis battery voltage or otherwise assured they are in good shape. Before I had the bad relay replaced on my HWW system, the rear slide would work without the motor running if the chassis batteries were top of charge.

Same here. My batteries have to be at peak voltage or the slides are going nowhere.

Rick

limandlin · 09-02-2011, 08:06 PM

Was told by the tech at the RV dealer today that the clicking sound is coming from the silver HWH box below the steering wheel. It contains all the HWH electronics, including the relays for the HWH system. Nothing inside can be worked on...you must buy the whole box. He said it was expensive. I said I would run the engine when extending the slides and jacks. The clicking is mostly gone when the engine is running. My chassis batteries are almost 4 years old, so may not be supplying the power they once did. The solendoids that are attached to the pump motor may also be a problem and he said they were cheaper, but were still HWH parts. So at this point I'll keep an eye on the clicking sound and if it worsens even when the engine is running, I'll bite the bullet and replace the silver box and both solenoids.