So, I caulked today....

[k715]

We bought a 2015 Brave 27B last November. It was on the lot several months, and we've had it 10. So maybe 1.5 years old.

Caulking looked good, as far as cracking/degradation, but I noticed when I washed last month that the roof-to-gutter caulk had separated from the gutter channel for about 3' on the pax side, so if you pushed in on the roof, it would open up.

The caulk joint between the front cap and the main roof was intact, but looked right poorly done from the factory....not a good bevel, and quite thin in spots.

Spent several hours reading up on the "right" caulk, and the "right" way to do the job. Decided to go with the 3M 4200 Fast, and back it up in the bottom of the channel with a 0.125 screen spline, to hold the joint open to accept a good caulk bead.

Got a great set of non-marring scrapers at Harbor Freight (#95832). These worked great for almost all of it. Used a fine belt in a 48" belt sander a couple of times to refresh the edge (instructions say use a file). They are big, and have a great handle, so your hands don't hurt after cleaning all the old caulk. Was able to remove 98%+ of the old with these tools. Mineral spirits brushed on thin, then wiped down took care of any remaining.

Anyway, thought I'd share my "success" story of the first caulk job.

[Dave1956]

Glad it went well, sad you had to do it so soon! Ill be on the roof of my 2015 Itasca Sunova next week waxing and inspecting. Hope I don't need that much work!

[macnut]

Great to hear it went well for you. Sounds like that should last a good long time.

[k715]

Oh, the other thing that made this job bearable, and much faster... Dropped a couple hunnert bucks on a section of baker scaffold.

Set at it's highest (6' standing level), it put the roof joint right at elbow level for me, and I could work over 6' lateral distance at a time without having to move. Well worth the $$, saved a lot of up-and-down as opposed to working from a ladder.

We are fixing to build a new house...hopefully this time next year the motorhome will be stored inside. That should help the caulk last.

[macnut]

Jealous!

[Superslif]

I inspect all my caulk joints 2-3 times a year. On my RV trailer roof I'll get down on my hands and knees to look at every inch. I would say starting after the 2nd year of ownership I had to apply some lap sealent here and there.

Water is your RV's worst enemy...

[AFChap]

Originally Posted by k715

and back it up in the bottom of the channel with a 0.125 screen spline, to hold the joint open to accept a good caulk bead.

Interesting. I have never heard of putting anything in the channel except caulk. Forcing the joint open with the caulk nozzle and letting it push back against the sealant helps it to seal. I'll have to think about the spline a bit...