Strengthen Bay Wall to hold Xantrex RS2000

[AA4WP]

I am presently attempting to install a RS2000 battery charger/inverter to replace the Dimensions 2KW unit which was orignial equipment in our 2004 Journey 36G. I have removed the Dimensions unit and have noticed how much lighter it is compared to the RS2000. I have also noticed that the wall (on which the Dimensions unit was mounted) was riveted at the top of the bay in three places. Unfortunately, all three rivets are shorn off, and the mounting wall just "floats"; not being connected at the top. This situation was not noticed until I removed the fascia covering the plumbing installation just to the left of the electrical portion of the bay. The screws which held the fascia were attached to the common wall (water on the left, electrical on the right) seemed to add somewhat to the stability of the floating common wall.

Now I know that the RS2000 is about twice the weight of the dimensions unit, so I am fearful that the weight difference will cause even more demand for support than that provided for the original Dimensions unit.

My question is: How can that wall be satisfactorily strengthened? There doesn't seem to be quite enough room to mount the RS2000 on the floor of the bay. It could squeeze, but there would not be adequate room to allow for forced air ventilation, according to Xantrex installation requirements.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

[AA4WP]

I am presently attempting to install a RS2000 battery charger/inverter to replace the Dimensions 2KW unit which was orignial equipment in our 2004 Journey 36G. I have removed the Dimensions unit and have noticed how much lighter it is compared to the RS2000. I have also noticed that the wall (on which the Dimensions unit was mounted) was riveted at the top of the bay in three places. Unfortunately, all three rivets are shorn off, and the mounting wall just "floats"; not being connected at the top. This situation was not noticed until I removed the fascia covering the plumbing installation just to the left of the electrical portion of the bay. The screws which held the fascia were attached to the common wall (water on the left, electrical on the right) seemed to add somewhat to the stability of the floating common wall.

Now I know that the RS2000 is about twice the weight of the dimensions unit, so I am fearful that the weight difference will cause even more demand for support than that provided for the original Dimensions unit.

My question is: How can that wall be satisfactorily strengthened? There doesn't seem to be quite enough room to mount the RS2000 on the floor of the bay. It could squeeze, but there would not be adequate room to allow for forced air ventilation, according to Xantrex installation requirements.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

[John Hilley]

Can you fabricate some brackets, probably "L" shaped that would fasten to the floor and partition and then mount the Xantrex on the brackets?

[John_Canfield]

I basically reused the original Dimensions mounting scheme with the obvious fastener mounting changes to accommodate the different footprint of the Xantrex. No reinforcement was necessary for my situation.

Don't think it is necessary to get crazy about providing for the additional weight. You have a little more shear load with the RS2000 (assuming it is mounted vertically), but I don't think it is worth a lot of concern. Bottom line though is to do whatever you feel comfortable with. (If you have a bulkhead or wall moving and it shouldn't be moving, do fix that)

Enjoy your RS2000 - I certainly have mine.

[AA4WP]

Thank you, John and John....

I think I'll replace the rivets at the top of the bulkhead and mount the RS2000 in the same position that the Dimension 2KW was, then keep my eye on it hoping that I'll not have to do anything else. Thanks to all and wish me luck.

[cbeierl]

When I mounted the RS2000 in my Vectra (as John did in his Horizon) I put the upper bolts through the upper horizontal U-channel reinforcement where the Dimensions unit was mounted. I would expect that you would find something similar on your Journey. As far as you loose panel, perhaps some bolts if the rivets are coming loose?

[AA4WP]

cbeierl: I would really like to put some bolts in the bulkhead top flange where the shorn rivets are (were) but that would mean putting the boltheads in the bedroom floor and my DW has a "no holes" policy. Using flat head bolts would have probably been a better solution at the time of manufacture. I am not really confident that the metal lining the top of the bay is very thick or strong to hold rivets, anyway.

Thank you for you suggestion.

[Sammie]

How about using a piece of 2x2 inch aluminum angle. Rivet the angle in several locations at the top with larger rivets and then use bolts at the side wall panel.

[AA4WP]

Sammie, I thank you for you suggestion. This afternoon I had the same idea. Progress is happening; I have the cables (battery temperature sensor and CAT5 for the control panel) run. I'm putting the control panel in the bedroom over the chest of drawers; way too difficult to put it in the "One Place" location. All left to do is to install the Surge Guard and then the Inverter. I don't think I'll try to replace the sheared rivets at the top of the bulkhead, since they failed with the lighter Dimensions inverter, they would probably fail again. So, I'll keep an eye on the situation, and if need be, get the aluminum stock and rivet or bolt that in place, hopefully not in a place which will interfere with storing the AC cable or water hoses into the bay while under way.

Again, thanks for the suggestion.

[Dick Morse]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by AA4WP:
I'm putting the control panel in the bedroom over the chest of drawers; way too difficult to put it in the "One Place" location. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not impossible but a real pain-- I just finished installing a Prosine 2K in my 2004 36G-- (coach only had the 300w unit up front in the entertainment center)

Looks like factory but I left a lot of DNA samples doing it

ReM

[AA4WP]

Hello, Dick Morse

Congratulations! My wires were in there to tight to risk pulling the CAT5 cable through with the slender cable Dimensions uses. I did pull the battery heat sensor line through with the existing sensor cable. Now have problem with the main distribution panel. Seems the neutral terminal tie strip was being held off the back of the panel with plastic mounts, and one of the mounts broke. I can get a replacement mount, but will have to wait for the electrical supply house gets enough for a new order; will take about 4-5 weeks for them to place a new order. I'm replacing the original HEAVY DUTY electric cable from the distribution panel to the automatic transfer box with a 50 amp cable, from an extension cable one uses to hook up to the campground pedestal; reason is that I'm installing a Surge Guard, and the cable originally installed wouldn't flex without putting excessive strain on the SG terminals. This job gets to be more than I originally anticipated.

Thanks for your comment

Wendell

[Dick Morse]

Hi Wendell--


You are right-- The harness is too tight to allow using an existing wire for a pull-- You must snake a new cable in. Not easy given the bulkheads between the "Center" and the electrical bay but it can be done if you don't mind bleeding (and cursing) a little

ReM