Why Does A HWH Shuttle Valve Fail? ...And how to replace one!
My jacks would not go down and when I pressed the button the HWH pump just "free-wheeled." So I replaced my shuttle valve and all was good again.
Why does a HWH shuttle valve fail? ...And how many mile did you go before you had to replace yours?
I replace my shuttle valve today and I had ~114,000 miles on my 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD.
Here is the procedure I followed to replace the shuttle valve and it was not hard to do:
Shuttle Valve HWH Part #RAP7964 costs $89.
If you have good access to the shuttle valve on top of the HWH System, this is about a 1.5hr job, for us first-timers, and almost anyone can do it. Plus you do not special tools. Just a...
* Screwdriver + 7/16” wrench
* 9/16” wrench
* 7/8 deep socket and long 3/8” drive extension and ratchet
* 1-zip tie
* Mineral spirits, paper towels, rag.
PRE-CHECK
* Do not proceed to replace the shuttle valve until you verify you have fluid in the reservoir and all those 5/8” caps are tight. (Finger tight and then a little more.)
PROCEEDURE
* Open the top lid to your entry step to gain access and prop up so you can work underneath.
* The shuttle valve is visible where the U-tube pipe connects to it closest to the door.
CLEAN off everything real good using mineral spirits on paper towels first then do it again using a rag.
Remove the U-tube from both ends (evenly). Then sand off the rust and paint if required. Notice: the Bend in my tube is up, but it probably does not matter. It’s just a tube.
Use a zip tie to pull back the battery cable that runs over the top of the U-tube pipe.
Use a large crescent wrench and spin off the 90-degree-elbow screwed into the old shuttle valve. (Do not remove the 5/8 cap next to it.
Check all four 5/8”caps are finger tight… plus little more torque. Do not over tighten.
Note: One of my caps required 2 full turns!
If you see a leak coming from under one of those four 5/8” caps, then this is a good time to replace them. You can get these o-rings at any auto parts store or hydraulic shop and I think they are Standard #604 type o-rings. …The HWH o-ring Part #: 03-905-9N and they are only $0.25 each.
Use a 7/8 socket with long extension (3/8” drive) and unscrew the shuttle valve. Note: I’s on tight!
After you unscrew the shuttle valve you will need to pull on it by hand to break the o-ring seal. Then lift off and remove.
Unscrew the 90-degree-elbow off the new shuttle valve by hand -- and install the new shuttle valve in to the top of the Jack Manifold.
Note: You will need to push down on the shuttle valve real hard to start the first threads; and I even had to tap on the top of the valve to get the o-ring to seat. (I used my ratchet.)
…Then you can use your 7/8 socket to tighten the shuttle valve DOWN REAL TIGHT!
Screw the new 90-degree-pipe-elbow into the new shuttle valve; and when you get it “snug” you add one more full turn.
Note: This is where your use a 7/16” wrench (positioned vertical) and then you put the screwdriver thru the closed end part of the wrench… to make a “T-Handled-Wrench you turn like you are working on a lawn sprinkler. (See pictures.)
Reattach the U-tube and make mirco-adjustments so the U-Tube fixes evenly over both pipe threads. Note: I found it’s best to first screw the U-Tube to the new shuttle valve and then start threading the other side. You also can use blue-Loctite on the other (older) thread.
Note: So you can see what is inside a Shuttle Valve I took a few pictures; and I think if shake it... and you hear it raddle... then you know you have a bad shuttle valve. IDK... All I can see is a nylon part the slips over the plunger and maybe it wears to the point it cannot hold back pressure.
Does anyone know how these shuttle valves fail?
…And you are done! Easy-peasy!
Now start your engine to get a good 12V to the pump, and attempt to put our jacks down as you normally would. Note: You might find them unresponsive at first, so try the other side. This is because you new shuttle valve has not hydraulic fluid in it. So be patient and don’t over work your jack motor. I.e., let it rest every 10 seconds. …I had to try 3 time before the jacks would go down.
OTHER TIPS
* Add an extra ground wire from our pump motor 5" bolt to your step metal lip. This will help your pump get a better ground and these pumps have been known for weak grounds. So this is an easy upgrade other forum member told me about.
* I had a lot of grim from when the previous owner over filled the tank. So I used a biodegradable WD-Degreaser and/or a $1 jug of “BBQ/Oven” cleaner you can get at the Dollar Store, and this stuff does a great job degreasing and it’s not mineral based. Then just use a high pressure water hose to remove the grime! (WORKS GREAT!) And then I sprayed just a little WD on those Jack solenoid wire ends to keep them from rusting.
PS That WD-Degreaser product is fantastic and it’s new. The only place you can get it is through Amazon, but this will change as more people discover it. I also use it to clean my Harley and it does a fantastic job cleaning chrome and calcium in your shower… without that WD smell! You really should try it.
==> See attached .pdf if you want to print this procedure out.
1) Before you check your fluid you are supposed to find out what combination of slides are supposed to be extended. In my case, my 2004 Horizon 40AD has 3 slides but I'm only supposed to check the fluid level when the short, passenger slide is out. * Your RV model will likely have a different slideout configuration than the one below.
==> If you can't find the configuration for your model, don't worry about it. I idea is to fill the reservoir unit it is about 1" from the top. So use your dip stick to estimate this or you can use a toothpick. ...Me, I prefer to have the fluid level at 3/4" from the top. And you should re-check this fluid level after using your slides three or 4 times.
2a) With the slide out per #1 above, then you check the level with the cap screwed down.
2b) Now let's say you find your level at the bottom of the dip stick. This indicates you are a 1/2 quart low.
3) Now retract the slideout... and use the scavenge pump to remove all the fluid you can get out of the tank. ...But put it in 1-gallon or quart jugs so you know how much you removed.
4) Now replace the fluid with new Dexron III fluid... the cheap stuff you can find, but make sure the fluid you buy is not the "high mileage" additive type.
Notes:
* There is no need to "bleed" the HWH lines. They use self-equalizing cylinders and return fluid to the tank when you retract the slideouts.
* Don't overtighten the plastic dip stick cap! Just finger tight then use a pair of channel lock to snug it down... just the littlest bit more... so it does not vibrate loose. Overtightening it will crack the plastic!
* My reservoir took 7.5 quarts. ...And it is getting harder to find "straight" Dexron III, because all the auto shops are marketing this stuff with leak repair additives in it.
* I found Camping World carries HWH Hydraulic fluid by the quart or you can order Dexron TES395 spec fluid on Amazon for pretty cheap. (TES295 is the Dexron spec for your Allison Transmission.)
* The only reason to replace this stuff is to get the crud out of the tank that may exist and to remove the fluid which may have moisture in it.
* I saw one video by an smart owner who used a 10-micron fuel funnel you can buy at Walmart to filter out the bad stuff and he just reused his old fluid after he did a repair, but I think it's worth $30 to change it if the fluid has never been changed in 8-10 years.
* Since you are change HWH and/or Dexron III fluids, you might also scavenge out the fluid in the power steering reservoir by the engine. This is also the reservoir for us Fan Clutch owners with a side radiator, and when my system took 10 quarts. So if you are replacing both the HWH and the power steering reservoir fluids you may want to buy 18 quarts of this tuff or just get the 5 gallon tub or better still may may sell a 2.5 gallon jug.
My jacks would not go down and when I pressed the button the HWH pump just "free-wheeled." So I replaced my shuttle valve and all was good again.
Why does a HWH shuttle valve fail? ...And how many mile did you go before you had to replace yours?
I replace my shuttle valve today and I had ~114,000 miles on my 2004 Itasca "Horizon" 40AD.
Here is the procedure I followed to replace the shuttle valve and it was not hard to do:
Shuttle Valve HWH Part #RAP7964 costs $89.
If you have good access to the shuttle valve on top of the HWH System, this is about a 1.5hr job, for us first-timers, and almost anyone can do it. Plus you do not special tools. Just a...
* Screwdriver + 7/16” wrench
* 9/16” wrench
* 7/8 deep socket and long 3/8” drive extension and ratchet
* 1-zip tie
* Mineral spirits, paper towels, rag.
PRE-CHECK
* Do not proceed to replace the shuttle valve until you verify you have fluid in the reservoir and all those 5/8” caps are tight. (Finger tight and then a little more.)
PROCEEDURE
* Open the top lid to your entry step to gain access and prop up so you can work underneath.
* The shuttle valve is visible where the U-tube pipe connects to it closest to the door.
CLEAN off everything real good using mineral spirits on paper towels first then do it again using a rag.
Remove the U-tube from both ends (evenly). Then sand off the rust and paint if required. Notice: the Bend in my tube is up, but it probably does not matter. It’s just a tube.
Use a zip tie to pull back the battery cable that runs over the top of the U-tube pipe.
Use a large crescent wrench and spin off the 90-degree-elbow screwed into the old shuttle valve. (Do not remove the 5/8 cap next to it.
Check all four 5/8”caps are finger tight… plus little more torque. Do not over tighten.
Note: One of my caps required 2 full turns!
If you see a leak coming from under one of those four 5/8” caps, then this is a good time to replace them. You can get these o-rings at any auto parts store or hydraulic shop and I think they are Standard #604 type o-rings. …The HWH o-ring Part #: 03-905-9N and they are only $0.25 each.
Use a 7/8 socket with long extension (3/8” drive) and unscrew the shuttle valve. Note: I’s on tight!
After you unscrew the shuttle valve you will need to pull on it by hand to break the o-ring seal. Then lift off and remove.
Unscrew the 90-degree-elbow off the new shuttle valve by hand -- and install the new shuttle valve in to the top of the Jack Manifold.
Note: You will need to push down on the shuttle valve real hard to start the first threads; and I even had to tap on the top of the valve to get the o-ring to seat. (I used my ratchet.)
…Then you can use your 7/8 socket to tighten the shuttle valve DOWN REAL TIGHT!
Screw the new 90-degree-pipe-elbow into the new shuttle valve; and when you get it “snug” you add one more full turn.
Note: This is where your use a 7/16” wrench (positioned vertical) and then you put the screwdriver thru the closed end part of the wrench… to make a “T-Handled-Wrench you turn like you are working on a lawn sprinkler. (See pictures.)
Reattach the U-tube and make mirco-adjustments so the U-Tube fixes evenly over both pipe threads. Note: I found it’s best to first screw the U-Tube to the new shuttle valve and then start threading the other side. You also can use blue-Loctite on the other (older) thread.
Note: So you can see what is inside a Shuttle Valve I took a few pictures; and I think if shake it... and you hear it raddle... then you know you have a bad shuttle valve. IDK... All I can see is a nylon part the slips over the plunger and maybe it wears to the point it cannot hold back pressure.
Does anyone know how these shuttle valves fail?
…And you are done! Easy-peasy!
Now start your engine to get a good 12V to the pump, and attempt to put our jacks down as you normally would. Note: You might find them unresponsive at first, so try the other side. This is because you new shuttle valve has not hydraulic fluid in it. So be patient and don’t over work your jack motor. I.e., let it rest every 10 seconds. …I had to try 3 time before the jacks would go down.
OTHER TIPS
* Add an extra ground wire from our pump motor 5" bolt to your step metal lip. This will help your pump get a better ground and these pumps have been known for weak grounds. So this is an easy upgrade other forum member told me about.
* I had a lot of grim from when the previous owner over filled the tank. So I used a biodegradable WD-Degreaser and/or a $1 jug of “BBQ/Oven” cleaner you can get at the Dollar Store, and this stuff does a great job degreasing and it’s not mineral based. Then just use a high pressure water hose to remove the grime! (WORKS GREAT!) And then I sprayed just a little WD on those Jack solenoid wire ends to keep them from rusting.
PS That WD-Degreaser product is fantastic and it’s new. The only place you can get it is through Amazon, but this will change as more people discover it. I also use it to clean my Harley and it does a fantastic job cleaning chrome and calcium in your shower… without that WD smell! You really should try it.
==> See attached .pdf if you want to print this procedure out.
The other day I talked to a CS person at HWH who really know his stuff; and here are few takeaways we all need to know:
* If your coach has 3 slides, then you are supposed to check the fluid level with just the passenger slide extended. This put fluid back INTO the tank.
* The recommend fluid level is about 1" from the top, with the cap screwed down, but there is enough extra tank volume to check the fluid level WITHOUT screwing the dip-stick down and filling it to the top mark... but no further, with your passenger slide extended, or you fluid will overflow on top of the reservoir. (Which is not harmful, but does cause a mess.)
* The difference in the dip-stick bottom mark to the top mark is 1/2 quart.
* When you press the Jack-Retract-Button the control board signals each solenoid to dump pressure. Then the force of the big springs returns the jack to the stowed position and fluid is returned to the tank.
* There is no need to bleed the HWH pump. However, if you replace a hydraulic line it is recommend you fill the line with fluid before you screw it down tight.
* It's a good idea to to clean the two pump motor screws (5" long) every 10 years to make sure they make a good ground; and adding an additional ground wire is not a bad idea. This ensures the pump has a good ground.
* When you slides work normal, but your jacks will not go down, this indicates a bad shuttle valve or your 3000-PSI switch is not making a good ground. However, 9-times, out of 10, your shuttle valve needs replacing.
* If you hear something when you shake your old shuttle valve, that's a sign it's bad; and the only fix is to replace it with a new one. However, the best evidence comes when you replace the old shuttle valve with a new one and your jacks begin to work again!
Just replaced shuttle valve #2, first one went out 6 yrs. ago. After job was done went to test and no power to jack panel or control box ??. Checked all fuses i could find but all good. The manual says there is a 5 amp fuse behind the jack control panel from key switch but could not find .The unit is 2005 33v adventure. Bought new. All help wpuld be great. Thanks Dennis.
"If you see a leak coming from under one of those four 5/8” caps, then this is a good time to replace them. You can get these o-rings at any auto parts store or hydraulic shop and I think they are Standard #604 type o-rings. …The HWH o-ring Part #: 03-905-9N and they are only $0.25 each."
I have not had much luck picking up these o-rings at local auto parts stores, even though their respective web sites say they have them. I have contacted HWH to see if I can order them.
I am surprised there isn't a toque value for the check valves, all of mine were able to be turned almost a full turn, and I snugged them with a wrench. Only one leaking but I plan to replace the o-rings on all four. I think there is also one or two on the side of the slide room manifold, haven't dug into that one yet.
__________________
2007 Winnebago Journey 36SG and 2013 Honda CRV Toad
e-Trailer XHD Towbar (Demco) Blue Ox baseplate, SMI Stay N Play brakes
Mine failed while slides out. You tube Kevin Caudill video helped. Replaced valve from lichtsinn rv. Took old valve to hydraulic shop. It seems the problem was that ball at end of rod came loose causing a rattle. They reinstalled it but with no guarantee of success however it was $20 well spent for a backup if new one fails
You cannot make a blanket statement to use Dextron III, An owner must use what is specified in YOUR MH manual. Example; my manual for my HWH system says to use HWH oil or type A ATF, do not use hydraulic jack oil!.
I expect in the near future I'll have to replace my shuttle valve, it's sticking now after being in storage for a year.
re: your list of wrenches, I would not recommend anyone use an adjustable wrench/ Chinese socket set, unless they like to round off the corners on nuts. To remove tubing nuts I use a refrigeration wrench to prevent slippage and rounding off nut corners when working with metal tubing connections.
One other thing, you do not use any sealer on a double-flare hydraulic fitting, it is a compression seal.
__________________ 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
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