Window Glass 125583-01-702 / 390-026101 Discontinued

[RzRzRzR]

Over the winter, the fixed glass pane in the passenger side window assembly in our 2003 Itasca Sunrise 36M is seriously fogged to the point it's no longer safe to drive. Due to the virus crisis we have not been camping anywhere but our side yard, but we'll need to drive it again eventually.

I found the part numbers on page 264 of the parts manual here http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/...CA/3iff36m.pdf.
GLASS - STATIONARY - R.H. 125583-01-702 / 390-026101.

I contacted Dometic, who bought out Atwood and also Lichtsinn RV who both told me the glass was discontinued and I would have to have a local glass shop cut it custom.

I've contacted three local glass repair shops and all three said they're not interested in the work - they wouldn't even come out to give me a quote. What are the magic words I need to say to get them interested?

[Cataska]

R V glass solutions search it

[creativepart]

What Cataska meant to say was:

https://www.rvglassexperts.com/

[RzRzRzR]

Originally Posted by creativepart

What Cataska meant to say was:

https://www.rvglassexperts.com/

Thanks! I just spoke with Eric over there and he's having someone get back to me by the end of the week.

[Blastvalve]

I worked with Duncan systems (https://www.rvglass.com/) for replacement glass on my old Sunova, both the drivers and passengers side windows had fogged and made seeing the mirrors a challenge at best.

Sue was great to work with, windows arrived promptly and were packed well enough you probably could have driven over the package and not damaged them. I swapped out myself and the difference was night and day. Price was reasonable as well. I’d use them again if needed.

[Cataska]

Sorry not all that computer savee Thanks for posting the link for them

[RzRzRzR]

Originally Posted by Blastvalve

I worked with Duncan systems (https://www.rvglass.com/) for replacement glass on my old Sunova, both the drivers and passengers side windows had fogged and made seeing the mirrors a challenge at best.

Sue was great to work with, windows arrived promptly and were packed well enough you probably could have driven over the package and not damaged them. I swapped out myself and the difference was night and day. Price was reasonable as well. I’d use them again if needed.

Thanks for the info. I will also ask them for a quote on the glass I need. How difficult was it to do yourself? Did you take pictures of the job by any chance?

[Blastvalve]

It wasn’t too terrible, although definitely a 2 person job. I didn’t take any pics, but in a nutshell:

A. Remove screws on inside trim piece.
B. Remove inside trim piece.
C. Pry (GENTLY AND PROTECT THE RV BODY) the outside frame and window out. It’s best to pry spots around the frame, making many “laps”. It will get easier as you go, it’s only rubber tape holding it in at this point.
D. Clean the old butlyl tape from body of RV. Doesn’t have to be spotless, but you want as much off as you can get so the new tape can make a clean seal. Again be careful here, use plastic scrapers to not scratch body.
E. Looking at the window, there will be “brackets” screwed in the corners. There will also be a “split” somewhere in the window frame, remove the screws in the bracket nearest that split, this will let you open the frame enough to slide the old window out.
F. Remove old glass from frame, install new.
G. Run a line of new butyl tape on the window frame where it will contact the body when reinstalled. Remember butyl cheap, water bad, don’t be stingy here.
H. Place window frame back in hole in body, hold in place while helper goes inside and inserts trim. Holder will be holding in place for a few.
I. Tighten screws on trim to reinstall. Best method is similar to a tire, install opposite of each either, tighten lightly and continue around frame. Once all screws installed, tighten in similar fashion. You may need to make 3-4 laps around until window is all in, the goal is to “walk” it in evenly for a flush fit.
J. Visually inspect for gaps.

The butyl tape will “ooze” out From under the frame outside for several days after you are done, you can trim up excess over time. There are several videos on YouTube as well that probably do a better job then I did on the above. It’s definitely a 2 person job, the units are heavy and there isn’t a easy way to hold in place and tighten from the inside on your own.

Lastly, while the unit should be watertight as soon as you finish, not the worst thing to let stuff set for a bit before seeing rain. Not the end of the world if it rains after, but not a project to attack with impending rain.

Good luck!

[skeeter1277]

probably want to run a cap bead of clear silicone where the frame of the window meets the siding, just to make sure water doesn't get behind the frame.

[Glenn C]

Originally Posted by RzRzRzR

Over the winter, the fixed glass pane in the passenger side window assembly in our 2003 Itasca Sunrise 36M is seriously fogged to the point it's no longer safe to drive. Due to the virus crisis we have not been camping anywhere but our side yard, but we'll need to drive it again eventually.

I found the part numbers on page 264 of the parts manual here http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/...CA/3iff36m.pdf.
GLASS - STATIONARY - R.H. 125583-01-702 / 390-026101.

I contacted Dometic, who bought out Atwood and also Lichtsinn RV who both told me the glass was discontinued and I would have to have a local glass shop cut it custom.

I've contacted three local glass repair shops and all three said they're not interested in the work - they wouldn't even come out to give me a quote. What are the magic words I need to say to get them interested?

You need to find the right glass shop I had the same problem with my 1998 Chieftain they replaced it with windshield glass single pain $400

[dacap06]

Originally Posted by Glenn C

You need to find the right glass shop I had the same problem with my 1998 Chieftain they replaced it with windshield glass single pain $400

The window fogged in the first place because it was probably double pane glass that lost integrity and let water between the panes. Double pane glass provides some insulation. It will keep you cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. I recommend replacing with double pane, not single pane.

[mikemakay]

Had the same problem with my 2002 brave. I removed the window, disassembled it, removed the affected glass to use for a pattern, and had a glass shop make up a laminated piece for a replacement. I did not want the same thing to happen again with the dual pane. You can have the same thickness made up and also use a low E layer to protect your interior from the sun.

[JDICKENSON]

I used Mobility RV, 800-933-7742. Gave all the info on RV and described the window I wanted to replace. The window was tinted and I wanted the same on the replacement. Within a couple of weeks they shipped the window to me, just as I asked for. I talked to Terry in parts.

[PDZ]

Originally Posted by mikemakay

Had the same problem with my 2002 brave. I removed the window, disassembled it, removed the affected glass to use for a pattern, and had a glass shop make up a laminated piece for a replacement. I did not want the same thing to happen again with the dual pane. You can have the same thickness made up and also use a low E layer to protect your interior from the sun.

Can anyone help with this? I'm trying to find out (without taking the glass out) the allowable thickness for new glass. 2002 Itasca Sunrise IFF34D will a 1/2 inch thick assembly work?
The whole assembly part # from Winnebago is 125583-01-01A
Here is part #'s which includes Winnebago and Atwood part #'s at the end for the glass 11 125583-01-700 EA GLASS-SLIDING W/SASH & LATCH DH573-A9R

14 125583-01-702 EA GLASS - STATIONARY - R.H. 390-026101
15 125583-01-701 EA GLASS - STATIONARY - UPPER 390-026100


Any assistance/information you can give me to be able to determine if a manufactured replacement double pane that is 1/2 inch thick will fit would be greatly appreciated.