Windshield crack

[sgtsilverman]

I have a '93 Vectra diesel. I recently noticed a 12" crack in the lower right windshield. The repair facility tells me there is rust on the window frame which has aggravated, if not caused, the crack. The rubber seal on the left windshield also shows bubbling which indicates rust on that side. Should I fix both sides of the windshield now, or just wait to see if anything happens to the drivers side. The cost of the passenger windshield appears to be $1300-2000. They tell me that removing the good drivers windshield will most likely break it. Will the cost of the drivers side repair increase if I wait? Are there any stopgap measures I can take? Is one of the pressurized crack repair processes possible? Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Bob

[Clay L]

That is a known Winnebago issue. I have had to have both the drivers and passenger side windshields replaced. I had it done at the Winnebago factory and they removed the rust and treated the metal.
If there are signs of rust on the undamaged side it might be a good idea to have the windshield replaced and the rust removed at the same time. Some people have posted that extensive and expensive replacement of the frame was required when the rust had caused a lot of damage.

[rk911]

Originally Posted by Clay L

That is a known Winnebago issue. I have had to have both the drivers and passenger side windshields replaced. I had it done at the Winnebago factory and they removed the rust and treated the metal.
If there are signs of rust on the undamaged side it might be a good idea to have the windshield replaced and the rust removed at the same time. Some people have posted that extensive and expensive replacement of the frame was required when the rust had caused a lot of damage.

first of all, notify your insurance company. we've had 3-windshields replaced on 2-motorhomes since 1986 all at no cost to us. many policies have no deductible for glass replacement. secondly, yes to replacing both sides. if the situation is as you describe your insurance company may pick up the other side as a preventative measure.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by sgtsilverman

I have a '93 Vectra diesel. I recently noticed a 12" crack in the lower right windshield. The repair facility tells me there is rust on the window frame which has aggravated, if not caused, the crack. The rubber seal on the left windshield also shows bubbling which indicates rust on that side. Should I fix both sides of the windshield now, or just wait to see if anything happens to the drivers side. The cost of the passenger windshield appears to be $1300-2000. They tell me that removing the good drivers windshield will most likely break it. Will the cost of the drivers side repair increase if I wait? Are there any stopgap measures I can take? Is one of the pressurized crack repair processes possible? Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Bob

Bob,
Well Sir, first off, yes, there is a procedure for stopping the progression of the crack in your present windshield. We had it done about 2 years ago and, the crack has not progressed at all, since the repair. It's pretty close to the same procedure for repairing regular chips in damaged windshields.

Now, as for should you or, should you not, mess around with the side that has a perfect windshield? Well, that's up to you. It sounds like, eventually both sides are going to be in need of repairing. The scuttlebutt of most glass installers is, "Keep the stock windshield" for as long as possible, even if it needs repairs due to rock chips, several times.

Now, if you're pretty sure both sides of the W/S frame are rusty and, are causing you problems now, well, you might just have to bite the bullet and, remove both sides of glass and get the frame repaired/resurfaced and ready to accept new glass. It might be a bit costly but, you'll be assured it's done and, done correctly and, will not happen again. Just some thoughts here.
Scott

[bandirector]

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Bob,
Well Sir, first off, yes, there is a procedure for stopping the progression of the crack in your present windshield. We had it done about 2 years ago and, the crack has not progressed at all, since the repair. It's pretty close to the same procedure for repairing regular chips in damaged windshields.

Now, as for should you or, should you not, mess around with the side that has a perfect windshield? Well, that's up to you. It sounds like, eventually both sides are going to be in need of repairing. The scuttlebutt of most glass installers is, "Keep the stock windshield" for as long as possible, even if it needs repairs due to rock chips, several times.

Now, if you're pretty sure both sides of the W/S frame are rusty and, are causing you problems now, well, you might just have to bite the bullet and, remove both sides of glass and get the frame repaired/resurfaced and ready to accept new glass. It might be a bit costly but, you'll be assured it's done and, done correctly and, will not happen again. Just some thoughts here.
Scott

I also have a crack emanating from the edge of the glass, and would like to know the technique that was used to stop your crack. I've had two different windshield replacement specialists look at mine and tell me its not possible to fix due to its location.

[lwasouth]

If you live in Florida, your insurance must replace any glass without a deductible charge.
Where I have had a leak (Not a crack) from the top of the windshield, I have been able to repair it successfully. I remove the rubber trim above the windshield. Then I liberally apply 3M trim adhesive along the entire top of both windshields, filling the space between the glass and the metal frame. Allow to cure overnight. Next day reinstall the rubber trim. The 3M trim adhesive flows into all areas and will seal the leak and also keep moisture from additionally rusting the frame. I stopped a leak 3 years ago, and all is still well.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by bandirector

I also have a crack emanating from the edge of the glass, and would like to know the technique that was used to stop your crack. I've had two different windshield replacement specialists look at mine and tell me its not possible to fix due to its location.

Well Bandirector,
All I can tell you is, ours started as chip, about an inch from the black, bottom molding, about 18" from the left lower corner of the passengers side windshield. I was going to fix that chip but, the day I went out to do it, it had become a CRACK. It has progressed, in one day, all by itself, to about 12" long, traversing up the windshield.

I was about to go ahead with the procedure to get that side replaced when, one of the folks on here said, "fix it, don't replace it". So, I enquired in the local yellow pages and, came up with the "Crack Doctor". Yep, that's what the listing says.

I called, he came, and, he proceeded to stop drill the end of the crack, and, he drilled it in couple other spots too. As he drilled, he filled it with his solution. He did this about three or four times, till the crack almost disappeared. As stated, it's been like that now for, about two years or more.

I'm no glass or, windshield repair specialist by far so, I cannot tell you if yours can or, cannot be repaired. I just know that mine was not necessarily "REPAIRED" as much as it was just basically stopped from progressing any further. You do have to look pretty hard to see it though, compared to how it looked prior to his working on it. Good luck.
Scott

[bandirector]

Thanks for the info Scott. I will be checking up on the "Crack Doctor"

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by bandirector

Thanks for the info Scott. I will be checking up on the "Crack Doctor"

Mark,
My "Crack Doctor" (man that sounds weird to say that) was from downtown San Diego. So, you'd have to look for a regular windshield repair specialist in your area and once you get a hold of them, then ask if they can repair or, at least stop the progression of a crack. Good luck.
Scott

[Five2o]

Originally Posted by bandirector

I also have a crack emanating from the edge of the glass, and would like to know the technique that was used to stop your crack. I've had two different windshield replacement specialists look at mine and tell me its not possible to fix due to its location.

They are lying to you...trying to sell you a new windshield ...go elsewhere.

[Clay L]

When I checked about having the crack fixed (before I knew it was caused by rust) the two different guys that I had look at it both said it was too long - I don't remember how long it was at that point but probably 16 inches or so - and neither one would guarantee that the windshield would survive the drilling of the stop hole. They said it would probably be okay but there was a chance it wouldn't be. I didn't want to take a chance since we lived in the motor home.

[two-niner]

I agree with most everybody. Sometimes the drilling procedure works, and then again the crack has a mind of its own.

The direction of the crack and torque on the windshield are the deciding factors. Good glass people can see immediately if drilling will work.

[sgtsilverman]

Thought I'd post an update. After extensive deliberation, it appears that a full repair could cost $3000-$3200 with little insurance reimbursement.

I do not know for sure that rust is the cause of the crack. In fact, I have been told that sitting facing the sun with one of the aluminum reflector shields inside the windshield could cause enough heat to have caused the crack.

In my research, I discovered thecrackdoctorwindshieldrepair.com in San Diego. They came out to my house, inspected the 16"crack and quoted $160 for a repair. Even if this only buys me a year or two, I feel that that was a viable option. The repair took about 30 minutes and I am posting before and after pics. Sorry the pics are sideways. Can I rotate them?

The crack is about 75% invisible, and since is is in the lower right side of the windshield, I don't even see anything while driving.

I hope this is helpful to anyonen else having this issue.

Bob

[rhusak]

Originally Posted by sgtsilverman

Thought I'd post an update. After extensive deliberation, it appears that a full repair could cost $3000-$3200 with little insurance reimbursement.

I do not know for sure that rust is the cause of the crack. In fact, I have been told that sitting facing the sun with one of the aluminum reflector shields inside the windshield could cause enough heat to have caused the crack.

In my research, I discovered thecrackdoctorwindshieldrepair.com in San Diego. They came out to my house, inspected the 16"crack and quoted $160 for a repair. Even if this only buys me a year or two, I feel that that was a viable option. The repair took about 30 minutes and I am posting before and after pics. Sorry the pics are sideways. Can I rotate them?

The crack is about 75% invisible, and since is is in the lower right side of the windshield, I don't even see anything while driving.

I hope this is helpful to anyone else having this issue.

Bob

Bob..
Spent over 10 years doing windshield repairs.. Couldn't do much as due to health issues.. $160 is ridiculous.. I used to charge $49 for any size I repaired. Some turned out better than others.. Over 1 foot I could fill mostly but virtually always stopped it from running.
I would call your insurance company and ask who they use in your area and call them. In fact lots of hem will pay for the repair even with high deductibles..
You need a high speed Carbide bur drill bit to drill stop the crack.. It always works to stop the running..
Ron
Still enjoying Lake Havasu

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by rhusak

Bob..
Spent over 10 years doing windshield repairs.. Couldn't do much as due to health issues.. $160 is ridiculous.. I used to charge $49 for any size I repaired. Some turned out better than others.. Over 1 foot I could fill mostly but virtually always stopped it from running.
I would call your insurance company and ask who they use in your area and call them. In fact lots of hem will pay for the repair even with high deductibles..
You need a high speed Carbide bur drill bit to drill stop the crack.. It always works to stop the running..
Ron
Still enjoying Lake Havasu

Bob,
I told you about the "Crack doctor" in San Diego. I didn't know you lived in the area. Even though pictures are sometimes deceiving, from what I can see, it looks like a pretty darn good repair. Ours, while not invisible, is also a darn good repair. We paid right at $120.00 for our repair. While some might say that's a "high cost", it's SERIOUSLY CHEAPER than buying half a windshield at about $800 - $1,000 depending on who sells it and installs it.
Scott

[NeilV]

If you do not stay on top of the roof seam and front cap caulking then water will follow the side channels forward and end up taking out the steel windshield frame. Fixing the crack is only repairing the symptom of the water leak generating the rust and causing the cracking.

[bobpie]

I could not find any one to fix a crack longer than 2 inches long. Mine was 6-8 inches long.
Rusting frame causing leaking inside of coach.
I decided to repair both sides of windshield.
Insurance paid for the cracked side, I had to pay for the glass on the driver side.
Expensive, yes, any more leaks, No.
Caulked all of my seams to try and avoid repeating the process in a few years.
We can't wait to get back on the road this year already!
Take off the cover next week.Yippy!!!