Windshield Gasket Came Loose, How to Seal?

Sealevel Ram · 09-29-2016, 08:34 PM

On our recent journey, a loud flapping noise caused us to quickly find an exit on I-70 in Kansas.
Found out that about two feet of the upper seal around the windshield came loose and was waving in the breeze. A little duct tape job, and we made it home after another 1300 miles or so.

My question is: what kind of sealant should I use to reseal the thing? It doesn't look like there was any used originally. I had the windshield replaced recently, and maybe they didn't do such a good job? But I had driven many miles since the replacement without trouble.
Just before the "incident" I had stopped for fuel and cleaned the windshield. Maybe I pushed the seal out of place without knowing it?

Anybody have the requisite experience on this? Thanks.

BFlinn181 · 09-29-2016, 11:46 PM

Do not use any silicon based caulk or adhesive, it will fail and you won't get anything else to stick to the silicon residue.

I'd take it back to the shop that installed the windshield the last time. They'll probably fix it for free. If they are too far away, I'd go to a nearby glass shop and have them do the repair.

AFChap · 09-30-2016, 09:34 AM

The rubber gasket does not seal the glass in. It only fills the outside gap between the glass and the fiberglass. It pops into a rubber/plastic track that sticks to the metal frame with double side tape. The shop that replaced the glass either didn't replace the tape, didn't clean/ prep the surface, or used a cheap tape. 3m auto trim tape is superb. I also ran a thin fingered bread of silicone sealant asking the edge of the rubber to better seal it, but the gasket must be secure first.

lwasouth · 09-30-2016, 02:35 PM

The rubber trim only pushed into a channel that is glued to the metal frame, just above the windshield. On the left and right side of the windshield you should have a metal trim piece that is screwed in place. When the rubber is installed it is stretched until it will go under the metal trim. A small screw is
is threaded through the rubber and into the metal. This anchors the end of the rubber in place. Mine had a #6 thread cutting screw about 3/4 inch long

Sealevel Ram · 10-01-2016, 11:52 AM

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I see the metal strips on the sides.
The gasket end that came loose definitely came out from under the metal strip for an inch or so, allowing it to flap in the breeze. There is NOT a screw that goes through metal AND rubber.

Also see where the installer applied a thin bead of dark caulk material on the upper surface of a part of the gasket, but not all the way across.

Getting conflicting info on type of caulk to use, silicon or no?

BFlinn181 · 10-01-2016, 12:52 PM

Check the forum for other reports about silicone caulk.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sili...earch=irv2.com

I grew up on a boat in the 1950-60's. Silicone was introduced as the great lifetime sealer that would never have to be replaced. My dad and many others started using it for everything. I saw it get dirty and fail, and the difficulty of subsequent repairs and painting. I don't think you'll find a professional glass shop using silicone as a sealant or adhesive in the repair you need.

AFChap · 10-01-2016, 05:44 PM

The original installation had NO caulk involved, but a re-install sometimes leaves some minor gaps. The inner channel sticks to the metal frame w/double sided tape, and the outer gasket pops into it. I have heard all the negative comments about using silicone, but it has worked great for me along the edges of the gasket.