Windshield Leak

Kazoo Tom · 08-31-2013, 08:16 AM

We just got back from a few days rest in Northern Michigan. While we were there we had a full day of heavy rain, nearly 4" in just a few hours. We noticed, for the first time, a leak near the top center of our windshield. Now we have been traveling in the rain many times and have not noticed any form of leak until this trip.

I am concerned that we might be experiencing the dreaded windshield frame rust problem that has plagued Winnebago. My question, if this is the case, has anyone been successful getting Winnebago to participate in any way to rectify this problem?

Of course I have not disassembled enough to confirm that this is the problem, just exploring my options.

lwasouth · 08-31-2013, 09:05 AM

It may be caused by rust on the frame that holds the windshield, or maybe the seal has come loose in that one area. One way to loosen the windshield seals is to bring in your slides without opening a window. If you don't think pressure is developed, stand by the open window, while closing the slides. To repair the leak, remove the rubber seal along the top of the windshield. Buy a tube of 3M black weather strip/trim cement (Not windshield sealant). Apply the cement along the top edge of where you can see the frame and the windshield. This will flow into the area where the leak is. Suggest you do the entire top edge. Worked for me prior to spending 6 days in the rain in Munising, Mi. this past summer

Wayne M · 08-31-2013, 10:38 AM

Tom and Barb,
I doubt you will get any relief from Winnebago unless it is still under warranty.

You many have to pull the trim off from the inside to see if there is rust. Mine was fixed under warranty about 3-1/2 years ago. This year it started leaking again and the local repair facility said that there were a lot of cracks in the roof seals. I have not been in rain to find out if that stopped the problem, so before you go pulling things apart, take a look at the roof seams. If they are showing signs of cracking, use the recommended sealant and redo the seams. Prior to redoing, use some acetone on a rag to remove the grime and dirt.

I doubt if the window seals are the culprit as they are below the roof line and water will not flow uphill, that is assuming you have the dreaded drip coming down from the center of the roof line. That seems to be the typical location for the water to find its path.

Happy trails.

Kazoo Tom · 08-31-2013, 11:09 AM

Thank you both for you quick and informative replies. I have checked the roof seams and all seem to be good. the leak is presenting itself at the top of the windshield behind the inside trim. I have not yet pulled the interior trim to track the leak. We have been through many storms prior to this with no leaks, but this was a torrential downpour of several hours where we noticed the dripping. the leak is not severe yet, that's why I want to correct it now.

I think for the sake of expediency I will take it back to my dealer locate and reseal the leak.

Muddypaws · 08-31-2013, 11:23 AM

Check the seals around your marker lights. That's another favorite place for water to sneak in.

After pouring over $1200 into my windshield I finally stopped the leak by installing a glue-on automotive drip rail just above it. You have to know it's there to even see it. $30 on eBay.

smlranger · 08-31-2013, 12:06 PM

Remove the inside trim at the top and see if you see rusty stains. If so, I can say from experience with our Journey it is frame rust causing the leak. I know folks try using sealants on the outside to fix the issue but it will not last....I tried.

If you plan to keep the coach, I would suggest you consider having the glass removed and the rust abated. I was pretty amazed at the amount of rust that had formed behind the glass when I had mine done.

Kazoo Tom · 08-31-2013, 06:48 PM

Thanks for all the ideas. I like the idea of the automotive gutter material over the window.

I removed the interior trim this evening and can see where it is leaking between the glass and the upper metal frame. There is a bit of rust in that area, but doesn't look too bad right now. I am guessing that the only permanent fix is to remove the glass and deal with rust abatement. Knowing that this is at the risk of breaking one or both of the windshield halves in the process.

I'll be contacting my local dealer, in whom I have some trust, and look for suggestions after the holiday weekend.

DAN L · 09-01-2013, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kazoo Tom

Thanks for all the ideas. I like the idea of the automotive gutter material over the window.

I removed the interior trim this evening and can see where it is leaking between the glass and the upper metal frame. There is a bit of rust in that area, but doesn't look too bad right now. I am guessing that the only permanent fix is to remove the glass and deal with rust abatement. Knowing that this is at the risk of breaking one or both of the windshield halves in the process.

I'll be contacting my local dealer, in whom I have some trust, and look for suggestions after the holiday weekend.

suggest you use por-15 from car quest on the outside where there is rust. it will wick into the area between the glass and frame and kill the rust.
then, use 3m cement-sealant and install the outside gutter rubber strip from camping world.

movin-on · 09-01-2013, 06:01 AM

After I repaired my rust problem. I used a strip of 2" Eternabond tape across the top of the windshield...I put half on the top of the rubber trim and half on the cap....That way if the windshield ever needs to be replaced you can remove the trim while leaving the Eternabond in place...Use the black Eternabond and it will look like an extension of the rubber trim and hardly noticeable...Water will never get to the frame again and it will stop any windshield leaks...

dsbike · 09-01-2013, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAN L

suggest you use por-15 from car quest on the outside where there is rust. it will wick into the area between the glass and frame and kill the rust.
then, use 3m cement-sealant and install the outside gutter rubber strip from camping world.

X2 POR-15 is an excellent product. Do follow the directions for removing the product from the can & be sure to put in a piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap before you put the lid back on the can. If you get this paint in the seal of the can & the lid you will never get the can opened again without destroying it. You should also be able to buy this a a good automotive paint supplier parts store. It's about $50 quart & worth every penny.

zippo · 09-01-2013, 07:03 AM

Sounds like the same type leak my 35L started having. I spent months trying to find it. Then one day it hit me to check the clearance lights. I found the screws about to fall out of one lens. Tightened it up and no leaks since. That was 8 months ago.

Kazoo Tom · 09-01-2013, 10:48 AM

Thanks for the suggestions of using POR-15. From the descriptions above it sounds like I can use it without removing the windshield, is that correct?

I have checked the marker lights, they are all tight and well sealed at this time.

Kazoo Tom · 09-02-2013, 06:45 PM

Just got an email from the service writer at our dealer. He suggested, as expected, the windshields be removed to allow removing all rust, then coating with POR-15 and reinstalling everything. Sounds expensive, but also sounds like a more permanent fix. I could just reseal along the top of the windshield, but the rust will still be there. We'll see what happens when he gets back to me with a cost estimate.

cjlatour · 09-02-2013, 07:21 PM

Did they also inform you that if the windshield breaks while removing it they are not responsible, and that you will be responsible for the cost of the glass?

Been there!

smlranger · 09-02-2013, 07:36 PM

R&R (with a new glass...Guardian) and dealing with the rust was right at $1,000 three years ago on my Journey.

Kazoo Tom · 09-02-2013, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

R&R (with a new glass...Guardian) and dealing with the rust was right at $1,000 three years ago on my Journey.

Did I read that correctly to mean that the $1000 included new glass?

terry735001 · 09-02-2013, 09:00 PM

you may want to look at some thing else make sure the glass is not coming off the glue its self

if you put any thing on the back side of the glass it gets really hot after along time

my Rv did this and so if you NOT push hard but push out with some one out side you can tell fast if this is starting to happen

smlranger · 09-03-2013, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kazoo Tom

Did I read that correctly to mean that the $1000 included new glass?

Yes. The cost for the actual glass (passenger side only) was about $350 if I remember correctly. The rest was the labor for R & R of glass and dealing with the rust....and there was rust at the top where the glass leaked and cracked, along the center pillar, and a lot at the bottom. As I now remember, it was really $900 related to the windshield as I paid the shop another $100 to re-attach (re-glue) my generator access door. I used a collision repair shop who does RV work. Guardian Glass provided the glass.

Kazoo Tom · 09-03-2013, 08:05 PM

Thank you very much for the information. I was expecting to see it cost more, I'll see where our shop estimate comes in.

Kazoo Tom · 09-04-2013, 07:25 PM

My dealer just quoted a price of $800 to $1000 to remove the windshields, repair the rust and reset the windshields. There was nothing said about them possibly breaking the windshields. Does this sound like a fair price, or is it a bit high?