Windshield Leak

marbilupton · 04-12-2008, 12:27 PM

I experienced a leak from my windshield on our trip last week. When I got home I sprayed some water on the windshield to try to find where it is coming in. It seems like it is coming in around the rubber molding at the top of the windshield. However, I discovered something that doesn't seem to be right about the rubber molding around the windshield. The vertical strip that goes between the passenger side and drivers side w/s has a small gap at the top corner that you could put the end of a pencil into. At the bottom, the horizontal piece that goes from side to side, goes over the vertical piece in the center, so there is a gap there on both sides of the molding. Could someone who has a similar m/h look at theirs and see if that is the way it is supposed to be? Thanks

FrontRangeRVer · 04-12-2008, 12:35 PM

I have a Voyage also.

If I am not mistaken (that would be rare

), the molding is just to cover up the glass edges. If your windshield is leaking, it would be from the sealant between the glass and the frame.

FYI. Our molding is cut kinda crooked also top to bottom....I just pulled it down so that the top and bottom edges are covered by the horizontal molding.

LeonB · 04-12-2008, 01:15 PM

I just went through the leaky windshield adventure. It was determined a factory installation problem, glass not properly sealed in frame. Unfortunately the proper fix is to remove the windshield, both of mine were leaking, and reset. This usually breaks the windshield! I started with a sealtech pressure test which I agreed to pay $100 for to find the actual leak spots. It took two trips to the dealer, about 3 pressure tests, and a coupld of water tests, but I am now leak free. Winebago did pick up all costs, however the glass was not removed. But I feel better knowing the whole case is on file, if further leaks develop.

The dealer sealed the glass with the polyurethane sealant. The rubber gasket is just trim and does not seal.

good luck.

tallyo · 04-12-2008, 04:21 PM

Having had leaky windshields on a prior RV let me tell you...Have a professional look at it. Windshield may have to be reset.

codgerbill · 04-13-2008, 05:03 AM

I had water dripping from the bottom of the TV console. There was no water in either of the side compartments. When I had the coach serviced in march I asked the people to reseal the marker lights. I drove the coach last week and noticed that there was (again) some water dripping from the TV console. I had the driverside windshield replaced in the fall of last year and I suspectd that maby it was the windshield leaking. This week I had the moulding (the strip of rubber between the top of the windshield and coach) removed and we resealed it. I also had the roof seams upfront recaulked. I will be going on a 12 day trip starting next week and will report back regarding the "drip" problem.

CaptBill · 04-13-2008, 05:50 AM

codgerbill,

Just a a suggestion, you might check to see if the rubber antenna mounted on the roof is not only sealed, but that the antenna itself is screwed tight to it's base. Water can enter through the hollow base.

Also, if you have a satellite dome, even if the screw heads are sealed, if the screw holes have not been sealed, water can enter between the bottom of the dome, and the roof, and on in to the TV compartment.

John Hilley · 04-13-2008, 07:04 AM

I had the passenger side windshield replaced at the factory last fall. During heavy rain I have a drip from just left of center at top of windshield. The top trim strip has also pulled away from the drivers side edge of the window on the top. I will be stopping in Forest City tomorrow.

AFChap · 04-13-2008, 02:59 PM

FrontRangeRVer and LeonB have apparently had similar experiences to mine. The rubber molding is just trim. As they say, the actual sealant is the glue that holds the windshield in. We had a leak at the top of one windshield a year ago with water dripping on the dash. The water was coming through a clearance light, running down the cap and resting on top of the windshield frame, then found it's way inside the glass. When a dealer checked it they found both windshields leaking. The service dept assured us they could remove the glass and reseal it, but there is no way that would happen the way the glass is glued in. They destroyed both windshields, and had to repair some pretty good rust on the frame where the water had been sitting -- that leak had been going on for a long time before the water finally found it's way inside the glass. In the process, the glass installer told us the driver's side had obviously been replaced before. Winnebago had no record of that on our file, and the dealer (who we had bought it from) denied any knowledge ...uh huh ...

From my experience, before agreeing to remove/replace the windshield, I would
1 - make every effort I could to stop the leak with the same glue they use to install the glass, or with caulk. It might mean having to remove and perhaps replace the rubber molding, but that is WAY cheaper than new glass!!
2 - try very hard to determine where the water is actually coming from (clearance lamps, antenna, etc on the roof) to be sure I cure not only the symptom (water getting inside the glass) but also the cause (possible roof leak).

glenda1908 · 04-14-2008, 03:25 AM

Marbilupton,

I know someone that can help you diagnose your leak problem. He will be at the NC rally. Check your Private messages for more info.

Mike Thomas · 04-14-2008, 06:03 PM

Find someone with an ultrasonic leak detector. It comes in two pieces. One piece goes inside the motorhome and emits a ultra high frequency sound. Roll up all the windows and take the sound detecting unit and run it along the windshield and lights etc. As the sound waves escape through the leak the detector picks it up and pinpoints it. A good glass shop might have one. They are also used by HVAC guys to find leaks in piping.

John Hilley · 04-15-2008, 08:42 PM

Had my leak repaired at the factory in Forest City this morning. They pressure tested it and the leak was actually in the center marker light.

AFChap · 04-16-2008, 08:09 AM

John

So they resealed the clearance light, which is where the water was coming from ...new gasket? ...or just caulk it?

But did they do anything with the windshield itself?

John Hilley · 04-16-2008, 12:37 PM

They sealed around the marker light and the windshield and then pressure and water tested it.

WINNE33 · 01-15-2009, 08:03 AM

I had a leak in the front and the ant. shaft was loose and it did not have the wavey washer flat washer or the o ring. Thanks Winnebago.. I hope that fixes my problem. It only leaked with the ant down and parked while not level, nose down.

Winne33

zertrider · 01-16-2009, 09:37 AM

I have come across this problem quite often, and most of the time the leak is a result of rust that has formed at the top of the windshield, allowed water to get in between the meatl framework and the urethane adhesive used to hold the glass in place. The easiest solution has been to remove the rubber insert, then remove the black plastic rail that the insert snaps into. Next scrape and chip away all of the rust flakes and use a wire brush to clean off the surface. Now, using a good quality urethane windshield adhesive, available from auto parts stores, lay a heavy bead across the top of the windshield/frame joint. Now apply a thin layer across the rest of the exposed metal to seal it from the elements and to hold the plastic strip in place. (I will often put enough in there that the gap between the windshield and the top cap is completely filled with urethane when the plastic strip is pushed into place). After the urethane has cured(about 1 day) cut off any excess and reinstall the rubber trim strip.
I have done a large number of Winnebagos this way and have not had leaks re-occur after doing them.

P.S.
I have heard that the reason that so many rust in this location was that someone on the assembly line had been using a scriber to mark where the windshield was to be placed, scratching through the e-coat and leaving no protection for the bare metal. This occured for a number of years until it was caught when complaints about rust started to occur.

LeonB · 01-16-2009, 10:39 AM

zertrider,

Thanks for the explaination. I went through hell with my windsheild leak all last spring. 3 trips to the dealer who did air pressurization and hose testing and not completely fixed. I finally urethane sealed completely from side to side on top and below the black plastic rail. If I had your post I would of done a much better job. If the Winebago dealer had your post he could of done a much better job. Winebago picked up the cost but I would have been happy to pay for a proper fix!

By the way how do you remove the plastic strip? If there is a next time ---I will do it right.

Lee B.

zertrider · 01-16-2009, 11:31 AM

The plastic strip is held in place with 2 way tape. Just pull it off, and remove the tape. The urethane will hold it in place when reinstalled.
Once i a while there is not enough clearance between the windshield and the fiberglass to get the plastic strip out. In that case, I use a cutoff wheel to trim back the fiberglass, as it will be covered again by the rubber insert.

WINNE33 · 01-18-2009, 03:42 PM

When you fill that area up with sealant, how do you keep the plastic piece in place untill the uathane dries? That looks like a good fix for leaking in that area. Thanks oby glass shops will sell the sealeant to you in a calk tube

Winne33

Roadking52 · 01-19-2009, 07:23 AM

I recently used Zertriders technique on my 2002 Horizon. Additionally, I painted the metal above the windshield with Extend rust converter, after wire brushing it. I topped that with Rustoleum enamel. The Urethane caulk I used is a product available at Home Depot made by PL and is a adhesive as well as sealant. I think it was called Ultimate Sealer and costs about $8.00 a tube. It is colored white. The molding channel will stay in place everywhere except the curved end at the side of the windshield. Tape a small wooden block against it using blue masking tape, and that will hold it in position until the sealer sets.

zertrider · 01-26-2009, 05:09 AM

Roadking, glad it worked for you. But I would suggest sticking with Urethane Windshield adhesive, as it will stick to the factory urethane that still hold the windshield in place. You can get it from many auto parts stores and it also comes in a caulking type tube. Just a suggestion.