Winnebago roof radius and front cap caulk repair you tube by AZ Expert

[Topsail]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hPoGxxNEtnk

This is by far the best information I have found on the roof to rail caulk repair and the loose front end caps where the screws fall out. As of today March 2, 2020 he only has 2,364 views for this video including mine.

Apparently not many people have watched this. Most people probably just pay somebody to do this job and that's great when done right. Then there are the rigs that don't get this work completed until something bad occurs.

[rgvtexan]

He has 1 moreviewer.

[Topsail]

Rgvtexan, His video gave me a couple of details that I needed to see and understand. In particular securing the front cap back down. One side on my RV is exactly as he pointed out in the video. He even described the blooming screw size. How's that for detail. I wondered what the screw would grap in that area. Now I know. I'll knock this out when the weather calms back down.

[moabdds]

How often does this roof radius joint need to be redone? My rig is a 2016 and the sealant surface has tiny little micro-cracks all along the surface, but not to the point of leaking water. As I understand it, this sealant is actually what holds the roof on, correct? I called Winnebago to ask them and the tech said it should be re-done every year or so! Is that correct? He said if you don't do the proper maint., it would void the 10-year warranty on the roof. That seems crazy that you should have to dig out all that sealant/adhesive and replace it every year?!?

What is the real world recommendation, and what has your experience been?

Also, Winnebago recommends the Manus-bond product, but they didn't say which one. For the rooftop vents, etc, they recommend the Manus-bond 75 AM, but looking at the Manus website, they actually make a roof bow adhesive.

[BobC]

As recommended in related threads, covering the sealed joint with Eternabond tape will extend the life of the job for years.

On the other hand, my rig is a 2002 so warranty issues aren't a consideration. I assume that, for those with newer rigs, you'd need to stick with the every year approach. You should carefully read both your owner's manual and your warranty.

With regard to what sealant to use, the sealant call-out sheet for your rig specifies part # 094401-04-00: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/nee...ce-311624.html

This IRV2 thread discusses cross-referencing the above part number to brand names in detail, particularly in posts 7-11: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/nee...ce-311624.html

Personally, I use Manus Bond 75 AM but, again, my rig is a 2002 with white roof and sidewalls so cosmetics aren't an issue.

[C Zimm]

I’ve gone the Eternal bond route years ago and it eventually got ugly. Removed it and had it professionally sealed again. Then one day a truck passed me along with a horrendous side wind. Road debris apparently hit the rear cap and exposed the fiberglass. That allowed the violent wind to eventually rip the entire drivers side roof. I had to go up top to cut and break it off. Not good on the side of the interstate with big riggs and violent winds.
Finally got the rig to Yuma AZ for repair. By far the best shop around for this fix. They replaced the entire roof and riveted it in place about every eight or ten inches. Never again will I have roof attachment problems. They then painted the front and rear caps along with the much needed drivers side.
I bought this 04 Vectra new.
After paying $250k this construction totally wrong. I’ve always said “Winnebago does a lot of things right and a few tings dumb”.
The big “W” needs to wake up. I have what I have and at my age it’s the last.
Still love the floor plan and the other good things they do.
Keep the faith and enjoy.

[Topsail]

Originally Posted by moabdds

How often does this roof radius joint need to be redone? My rig is a 2016 and the sealant surface has tiny little micro-cracks all along the surface, but not to the point of leaking water. As I understand it, this sealant is actually what holds the roof on, correct? I called Winnebago to ask them and the tech said it should be re-done every year or so! Is that correct? He said if you don't do the proper maint., it would void the 10-year warranty on the roof. That seems crazy that you should have to dig out all that sealant/adhesive and replace it every year?!?

What is the real world recommendation, and what has your experience been?

Also, Winnebago recommends the Manus-bond product, but they didn't say which one. For the rooftop vents, etc, they recommend the Manus-bond 75 AM, but looking at the Manus website, they actually make a roof bow adhesive.

A quick response for now: The sealant keeps the air (and water) out. It doesn't really hold the roof radius in. The roof is tucked under the rail and that is your mechanical joint. Also, your caulk job does sound like it's due. If I remember your rig is full body paint so those micro cracks may be the paint and the caulk is beginning to harden and needs to be removed/replaced.

More later unless somebody fills in the exact caulk. I have that info but gotta dig.

[BobC]

A PO put some screws in mine but they don't seem to be holding tight. I swear some are just into the foam inserts. I was thinking of installing a batten of some sort and screwing or riveting it to the aluminum structure. That would minimize the chances of it pulling loose. The fiberglass is so thin I'm not sure that rivets or screws alone can be trusted.

On the other hand, mine is OK after 18 years and I have other things to fix or modify.

[Topsail]

Moabdds,

Since your Winnebago was was new they used Clear caulk on the front and rear cap and side rails after painting. You would not have paint cracking over the caulk. Mine was painted after a caulk job since it was used. I had cracks in the paint over the caulk.

I am including the clear caulk information recommended by Winnebago and sold by Lichtsinn Motors, Inc. They are a Winnebago dealer

Winnebago roof caulk as advised by Lichtsinn Motors, Inc

"Stone Mason" Gutter & Siding Sealant, Clear
Lichtsinn part number 094401-04-000
$19.05

This is the clear caulk for the front and rear caps and the side rails with full body paint.

The Manus Bond 75-AM is used on the side rails for those without full body paint.



Hope this helps.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Topsail

This is by far the best information I have found on the roof to rail caulk repair and the loose front end caps where the screws fall out. As of today March 2, 2020 he only has 2,364 views for this video including mine.

Apparently not many people have watched this. Most people probably just pay somebody to do this job and that's great when done right. Then there are the rigs that don't get this work completed until something bad occurs.

He has some interesting videos and seems to know his stuff.

[Topsail]

Originally Posted by BobC

A PO put some screws in mine but they don't seem to be holding tight. I swear some are just into the foam inserts. I was thinking of installing a batten of some sort and screwing or riveting it to the aluminum structure. That would minimize the chances of it pulling loose. The fiberglass is so thin I'm not sure that rivets or screws alone can be trusted.

On the other hand, mine is OK after 18 years and I have other things to fix or modify.

Yeah Bob, I haven't replaced the missing screw on mine yet so I hope it grabs Something solid behind the cap. Otherwise, I'll have to rethink this too.

[Topsail]

He does have some good stuff. I only wish he was nearby, I'm way to old to be doing the things I have to do. Haha

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Topsail

This is by far the best information I have found on the roof to rail caulk repair and the loose front end caps where the screws fall out. As of today March 2, 2020 he only has 2,364 views for this video including mine.

Apparently not many people have watched this. Most people probably just pay somebody to do this job and that's great when done right. Then there are the rigs that don't get this work completed until something bad occurs.

He has some interesting videos and seems to know his stuff.

[creativepart]

I was seeing some water leaking in when the RV was parked and it rained a large amount. But that's the only time. I checked and the cauking at the drip rail where it intersects with the front cap had developed two pretty large holes - each about 1/16th of an inch in diameter. It looked like the caulking retracted and that's what opened the holes.

I dug it all out and found that I could see daylight inside from the hole there after I dug out the caulk. So I got some of the Manus Bond 75-AM and filled that whole section back in.

In the photo below I circled in red where the holes were in the caulking. They were right at the end of the drip rail - like water could be directly delivered into the holes as it came down the drip rail.

I checked the other side in the same place and found it with two small cracks so I just covered those with the Manus rather than dig all the existing caulking out.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Topsail

He does have some good stuff. I only wish he was nearby, I'm way to old to be doing the things I have to do. Haha

I just had a lesson on this today: I went up in the attic to install a junction box in order to re-route the light and fan switches from one wall to another in a bathroom we're remodeling. The project went well but I ended up pulling a muscle in my upper left leg from kneeling in such a cramped position on top of the ceiling joists. It only hurts when I sit down or get up, if I don't move, it's OK.

On the other hand, I didn't have to hire an electrician.

But my right rotator cuff, that I tore after falling the last five feet off my MH ladder last July (surgery in Aug), while cleaning the roof for a solar panel install, was fine the whole time. When I went to the ER then, after looking at my medical record, said that she wanted to just wrap me in bubble wrap.

I think she was right, I'm going to order a roll.

[Topsail]

Originally Posted by creativepart

I was seeing some water leaking in when the RV was parked and it rained a large amount. But that's the only time. I checked and the cauking at the drip rail where it intersects with the front cap had developed two pretty large holes - each about 1/16th of an inch in diameter. It looked like the caulking retracted and that's what opened the holes.

I dug it all out and found that I could see daylight inside from the hole there after I dug out the caulk. So I got some of the Manus Bond 75-AM and filled that whole section back in.

In the photo below I circled in red where the holes were in the caulking. They were right at the end of the drip rail - like water could be directly delivered into the holes as it came down the drip rail.

I checked the other side in the same place and found it with two small cracks so I just covered those with the Manus rather than dig all the existing caulking out.

After your post I'm going to check mine carefully. That area seems to me to be a failure waiting to happen. Mines ugly too.

[Topsail]

Originally Posted by BobC

I just had a lesson on this today: I went up in the attic to install a junction box in order to re-route the light and fan switches from one wall to another in a bathroom we're remodeling. The project went well but I ended up pulling a muscle in my upper left leg from kneeling in such a cramped position on top of the ceiling joists. It only hurts when I sit down or get up, if I don't move, it's OK.

On the other hand, I didn't have to hire an electrician.

But my right rotator cuff, that I tore after falling the last five feet off my MH ladder last July (surgery in Aug), while cleaning the roof for a solar panel install, was fine the whole time. When I went to the ER then, after looking at my medical record, said that she wanted to just wrap me in bubble wrap.

I think she was right, I'm going to order a roll.

Ouch and I need to work on a ladder tomorrow.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Topsail

Ouch and I need to work on a ladder tomorrow.

All I can say is be careful, make sure it's secured and don't climb with stuff in your hands. Pull up a bucket or bag after you're up, and don't over-reach. The ER doctor was telling me that I was very lucky and that much more serious, ladder-related accidents (head injuries, etc.) were common. I used to be pretty cavalier about ladders, but not anymore. And my ladder fall didn't really have anything to do with age or physical condition. It was soapy water on the rungs and a bucket in my hand that did me in.

[Park Super]

Originally Posted by moabdds

How often does this roof radius joint need to be redone? My rig is a 2016 and the sealant surface has tiny little micro-cracks all along the surface, but not to the point of leaking water. As I understand it, this sealant is actually what holds the roof on, correct? I called Winnebago to ask them and the tech said it should be re-done every year or so! Is that correct? He said if you don't do the proper maint., it would void the 10-year warranty on the roof. That seems crazy that you should have to dig out all that sealant/adhesive and replace it every year?!?

What is the real world recommendation, and what has your experience been?

Also, Winnebago recommends the Manus-bond product, but they didn't say which one. For the rooftop vents, etc, they recommend the Manus-bond 75 AM, but looking at the Manus website, they actually make a roof bow adhesive.

Here is a link that will answer your question

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJz7doxPQXg

After watching this I inspected roof cove and found that the adhesive had given up in places. The Manus bond 75 is available on amazon in clear and worked well. A little time consuming removing the old sealant and cleaning prior to reseal but doable.

[al1florida]

One very important issue to keep in mind:
Winnebago's sealant from the factory & recommended for repairs is Silicone. I don't know of anything that will stick to cured Silicone. Not even new Silicone will stick to the cured Silicone sealant.

You must scrape off all the old Silicone sealant to add new sealant. It is a real pain to get all the old Silicone scraped off.

In the video in the original post, I think the new sealant he used is not Silicone sealant, as he says it can be painted. He use Pro-Flex RV Sealant.