Winnebago Sealants

Late arrival · 11-29-2014, 01:05 PM

I have read numerous people saying not to use silicone to seal cracks, yet my winnebago adventurer 2001 on the callout sheet from winnebago calls for silicone sealants...any info to help me on this...i had ordered dicor self leveling lap sealant for my roof cap and vents...do i need to send this back and get silicone?

also need sealant to go around clearance lights...I believe my rv is fiberglass, am i right?
very nubie and confused at moment

t55watson · 11-29-2014, 01:08 PM

The Dicor lap seal is the best for the roof. They also make one for side walls, won't flow and move after application like lap seal.

Ray,IN · 11-29-2014, 07:16 PM

IMO, silicone and RV's are a poor match, stay with Dicor. self-leveling for horizontal use, non-sag for vertical.

Wizard · 11-30-2014, 08:02 AM

I called Winnebago Customer relations and they told my exactly what to use. Their number is on the website.
Yes Winnebago did use some silicone sealants.

Bumps · 11-30-2014, 08:19 AM

For example:

Where each of the black and grey tank roof top vent pipes extend through the roof, Winnebago uses silicone between/around the 2" pipe and the roof structure. Because of its adhesiveness, the silicone will not sag and drop into the roof cavity like [a self-leveling product such as] Dicor would. Then the vent cap goes over top of it all. The vent cap can be generously sealed with Dicor.

The batwing antenna is installed similarly. Under the mounting bracket there is a healthy amount of silicone to seal the roof penetration. When the batwing bracket is installed on the roof, [a product like] Dicor is applied to seal on-and-around the mounting bracket.

\ken

jerichorick · 12-03-2014, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Late arrival

I have read numerous people saying not to use silicone to seal cracks, yet my winnebago adventurer 2001 on the callout sheet from winnebago calls for silicone sealants...any info to help me on this...i had ordered dicor self leveling lap sealant for my roof cap and vents...do i need to send this back and get silicone?

also need sealant to go around clearance lights...I believe my rv is fiberglass, am i right?
very nubie and confused at moment

Yes it is fiberglass. But the panels are caulked to keep moisture out. The roof is held in place along a track by the caulking and this MUST be maintained. If wind gets under the roof fiberglass it could peal it off

. This is not uncommon to read about on this forum.

I have found that Henry 212 from Home Depot is great for the roof track. I just did mine recently. All of the old stuff needs to be removed and the track cleaned reasonably well. I use a small L shaped tool. Force the 212 into the crack and level by dipping your finger in mineral spirits or denatured alcohol and running it over the goop to smooth it out. It is very clear and disappears when cured.

The self leveling stuff from the RV store works great. Make certain that it is similar to what the factory used.

In most cases silicone is not the best caulk. It just does not hold well enough for RVs.

Read what your owners manual states and then us you judgement. These things shake and flex very much. All the seams need to be examined closely and fixed when trouble is found.

I hope I have shed a bit of light on this vast topic for you. Happy trails.

Rick Y

Wetsnail · 12-04-2014, 08:35 AM

X2 on the Henrys

depchief · 12-04-2014, 08:52 AM

The Winnebago web site under "Resources" then "Manual and Diagrams", "Sealants Call Out" then your year and model for a diagram and parts list.
You can check the type of sealant by comparing the part number with the product description.

jerichorick · 12-05-2014, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by depchief

The Winnebago web site under "Resources" then "Manual and Diagrams", "Sealants Call Out" then your year and model for a diagram and parts list.
You can check the type of sealant by comparing the part number with the product description.

I would check some of the later models for sealants. These have come a long way over the past several years and there are many out now that work better and last longer. The one that can't be beat that is still used by Winnebago is the self-leveling rubber type sealant on the roof fixtures. I wish I knew where to get this stuff by brand name. Those part #'s used in the call out don't help when going into the typical RV store. And some of the stuff that has been recommended to me I returned when I realized what it was.

If you have open areas, like under the front cap to the roof seam as I have, use "backer rod" to fill the gap and then caulk. Makes for a tighter seal and better caulk adherence. Backer rod is available at HD, Lowe's and many hardware stores.

depchief · 12-05-2014, 11:16 AM

Roof sealant on flat surfaces is Dicor, lap sealant, self leveling. It now comes in a few colors. Available in most good RV supply stores and I think Amazon
Absolutely the best for all flat surfaces on the roof.
To use over the existing, clean with denatured alcohol and apply. It will look terrible when first applied but after a few minutes it will level and look good. Make sure to go past the existing edge to insure a good seal..

jerichorick · 12-06-2014, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by depchief

Roof sealant on flat surfaces is Dicor, lap sealant, self leveling. It now comes in a few colors. Available in most good RV supply stores and I think Amazon
Absolutely the best for all flat surfaces on the roof.
To use over the existing, clean with denatured alcohol and apply. It will look terrible when first applied but after a few minutes it will level and look good. Make sure to go past the existing edge to insure a good seal..

Thanks for this info. I'll put it in my good to know file.

My coach had some sort of tape over all of the roof seams. It peeled off like snake skin. The original caulking was still good so I got rid of all that junk. It may have been Durobond (?). Nothing durable about it in my book.

Rick Y

znt1186 · 12-06-2014, 10:37 AM

Be aware that if the previous sealant was silicone, nothing else will bond to it for very long. It should be replaced with a silicone sealant. Recommend commercial grade sealants similar to those used to set the windows in high rise buildings such as Dow 790. It is a very strong silicone with outstanding bond strength and the cost is not much more than those at the local big box store. You need to locate it at a building supplier, not Lowes or Home Depot. I have also used Lexel successfully. It goes on clear and remains clear. However, it will not bond to surfaces where silicone was previously used.

jerichorick · 12-06-2014, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by znt1186

Be aware that if the previous sealant was silicone, nothing else will bond to it for very long. It should be replaced with a silicone sealant. Recommend commercial grade sealants similar to those used to set the windows in high rise buildings such as Dow 790. It is a very strong silicone with outstanding bond strength and the cost is not much more than those at the local big box store. You need to locate it at a building supplier, not Lowes or Home Depot. I have also used Lexel successfully. It goes on clear and remains clear. However, it will not bond to surfaces where silicone was previously used.

This used to be true. But now Goof off, I think, make many types of cleaners including those for silicon removal.