Air Conditioner

gunny · 04-22-2007, 01:18 PM

Doing a little maintenance on the MH today, '03 Journey DL.

Tried the Air on generator and got an unpleasant surprise. Was looking at the EMS panel and saw the amps go to 69 momentarily and then drop to 16. Would expect to see around 22 or so with 1 compressor running. Saw it repeat this cycle about once a minute and quit before I burned it down. Generator did not like it at all. Same thing on a 30 amp shore power connection.

Late last summer had a lightning strike that took out the EMS (both boards) and some other electronics. Don't remember if the AC was working after the repair or not. Been running the heat on gas, I don't winterize, leave the heat on around 40 so I can use it when I want with no fuss.

Thoughts, ideas, comments before I start taking things apart.

gunny · 04-22-2007, 01:18 PM

Doing a little maintenance on the MH today, '03 Journey DL.

Tried the Air on generator and got an unpleasant surprise. Was looking at the EMS panel and saw the amps go to 69 momentarily and then drop to 16. Would expect to see around 22 or so with 1 compressor running. Saw it repeat this cycle about once a minute and quit before I burned it down. Generator did not like it at all. Same thing on a 30 amp shore power connection.

Late last summer had a lightning strike that took out the EMS (both boards) and some other electronics. Don't remember if the AC was working after the repair or not. Been running the heat on gas, I don't winterize, leave the heat on around 40 so I can use it when I want with no fuss.

Thoughts, ideas, comments before I start taking things apart.

tomsm · 04-22-2007, 03:53 PM

The fan should start before the compressor. I would suspect a failed start capacitor, either on the fan if it didn't start or on the #1 compressor if the fan started. Good luck...

DancinCampers · 04-23-2007, 07:47 AM

Gunny,

The high amperage draw you see is the compressor trying to start, then the internal overload tripping. This is an indication of either a bad starting capacitor, or bad compressor. I am running mine on 1 compressor now because my capacitor went bad. I disconnected my # 2 compressor from the start cap & then attached my #1 compressor.

The start caps are small, black cylinders, with a little square PTSC device attached to one of the terminals. Look for telltale burning signs at the connections.

I am trying to track down a replacement before the summer comes.

This happened to me also in 2005 & it turned out to be a bad start cap.

Good luck.

gunny · 04-23-2007, 04:52 PM

I'm hoping its a start capacitor. Guess I'll find out when I figure out which end to start taking part first. Will I have to drop the AC out of the MH?

DancinCampers · 04-23-2007, 08:49 PM

You should not have to drop the unit to check the caps. The grill should be hinged on top. The holddown screws should be located on the bottom, rear section and the right side section (lift propane door to remove). You'll need to hold the grill open, I use my awning rod.

On the left side of the condenser there is a plate which covers the electronics. Remove the screw at the bottom. You will see 5 caps on the bottom. The two large grey ones on the right are the compressor run caps. The two smaller black caps are the compressor start caps. They also have a small square piece attached to one of the contacts. The lone smaller grey caps is the indoor blower run cap.

Check for smoke trails around the top of the start caps.

gunny · 04-28-2007, 11:59 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DancinCampers:
You should not have to drop the unit to check the caps. The grill should be hinged on top. The holddown screws should be located on the bottom, rear section and the right side section (lift propane door to remove). You'll need to hold the grill open, I use my awning rod.

On the left side of the condenser there is a plate which covers the electronics. Remove the screw at the bottom. You will see 5 caps on the bottom. The two large grey ones on the right are the compressor run caps. The two smaller black caps are the compressor start caps. They also have a small square piece attached to one of the contacts. The lone smaller grey caps is the indoor blower run cap.

Check for smoke trails around the top of the start caps. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That was it exactly as described.

Thank You!

DancinCampers · 04-30-2007, 07:19 AM

Glad it was not the compressor.

I took some pics of my blown motor starter & will post soon.

rvten · 04-30-2007, 01:29 PM

Yep had that problem last summer. Cost me $1000.0 for new comp. and labor. It was #1 comp. for me.

gunny · 04-30-2007, 03:22 PM

Stopped at CC Dixon this morning and got a start cap. The one that was on there was a 80 - 108, didn't have any so went with a 108 - 130 mfd. Well that didn't work out so well.

Had moved the #2 start cap to the #1 circuit and it appeared to be working properly. Installed the new cap on compressor #1 and moved the original #2 back to #2. Started the system and all appeared well for a few mintes, had 2 fan speeds and both compressors would start and run. Problem is that the new cap got real hot and dump out some of its oil. Shut everything down and took it out, put the good original cap on compressor #1 and it is working. Guess time to hunt another cap.

What's that thing mounted on top of the capacitor? Surge surpressor of some kind? Where can I find one of those? CC Dixon doesn't appear to be real helpful and my local RV dealer is the very last place I'll go.

DancinCampers · 04-30-2007, 07:43 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
What's that thing mounted on top of the capacitor? Surge surpressor of some kind? Where can I find one of those? CC Dixon doesn't appear to be real helpful and my local RV dealer is the very last place I'll go. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That is a Motor Starter (Positive Temperature Coeficient (PTC)). It removes the start capacitor after compressor starts up. It looks like it, as well as the cap, will have to come from RVP. They have cap in stock, but Motor Starter is backordered 10 days. Total cost for both is $53, thru dealer I talked to. Haven't checked yet if I can order direct, and have drop shipped to our home, which we should be back to in a couple of weeks..

You can find nearest support dealer at

RVP Support

A dealer which sells MH's with basement air may have one in stock. I've tried various places, including home AC shops, no luck.

My motor starter blew the bottom out completely.

DancinCampers · 05-01-2007, 06:08 PM

gunny,

I talked to RVP today, Eric. The items, capacitor, motor starter, red & yellow wires, and hold down strapping, come as a kit. P/N 8333A9021. The kit, called a start device, was $18.33 plus shipping. I ordered two, to be shipped to my house in Nevada, will be waiting for us.

I also purchased one kit today from Dan Gamel Fresno RV. Cost was $23.76 plus tax, (we have a few weeks before we get home & the weather is warming up, wanted both compressors working). They said they keep quite a few on hand, but not for our basement air units. The parts man said they install a lot of 3KW generators in the trailers the sell, and add the start kit to the roof air so it will start on the genset.

Good hunting

DancinCampers · 05-02-2007, 04:24 PM

Here are a couple pics of my burnt capacitor and motor starter.

Pic 1

Pic 2

gunny · 05-02-2007, 05:50 PM

Mine looks way worse than that. Well the cap looks about the same but the thingy on top on mine is nothing but a rusty square.

Appears that all the magic smoke got out of it. Magic smoke being the ingredient in electrical things that make them go. Once it gets out, stuff stops working, must be what makes it work.

DonavonP · 05-03-2007, 01:43 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by gunny:

Appears that all the magic smoke got out of it. Magic smoke being the ingredient in electrical things that make them go. Once it gets out, stuff stops working, must be what makes it work. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think I lost my smoke years ago.

gunny · 05-03-2007, 04:51 PM

Update!

All fixed. In my travels for work stopped at a RV place and laid the bad capacitor on the parts counter. Parts man pulled down a box and came up with the kit. Cost me $21.13 including sales tax. Would have gotten a spare but it was the only one he had. Got home and installed it and tested things, all is good again.

Thanks for the help and advice folks.

RODOLFO · 05-25-2007, 02:18 PM

HI, DO YOU HAVE THE PHONE NUMBER OF TH SHOP WHERE YOU BOUGHT THE KIT. I AM NEEDING IT. THANKS

Fossilhog · 09-05-2007, 12:15 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DancinCampers:
gunny,

I talked to RVP today, Eric. The items, capacitor, motor starter, red & yellow wires, and hold down strapping, come as a kit. P/N 8333A9021. The kit, called a start device, was $18.33 plus shipping. I ordered two, to be shipped to my house in Nevada, will be waiting for us.

I also purchased one kit today from Dan Gamel Fresno RV. Cost was $23.76 plus tax, (we have a few weeks before we get home & the weather is warming up, wanted both compressors working). They said they keep quite a few on hand, but not for our basement air units. The parts man said they install a lot of 3KW generators in the trailers the sell, and add the start kit to the roof air so it will start on the genset.

Good hunting </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I guess you got the right guy. I just spoke with RVP who refused to sell me the parts and gave me the 800 number for Camping world and their parts number. Claimed contractural agreement forbid sales to individuals. I have an e mail in to Lichtsinn now.....rather buy from the,.