Anyone install a full inverter/charger system in their Minnie or Micro Towable?

[Old Navy]

So, I saw an amazing deal on a new Magnum MS2012 inverter/charger on Amazon, and though it might be more than I need, I snapped it up on impulse. Who can resist a great deal on something they really don't need?

Of course my trailer shore power connector and power center are on the opposite end of the trailer from the batteries, so running some 10/2 romex or equivalent, and possibly relocating the shore power connector will be required. Ideally, I'll take advantage of the Magnum's automatic switching between shore and inverted power, though the inverter will be turned off 95% of the time.

Pulling romex through the frame rail would be ideal, but pulling the chloroplast/plasticore wouldn't. There is a nice channel along the outside of the the frame rail, above the "outrigger" support arms that seems ideal to run the 10/2. It's pretty well tucked up and protected, but still exposed. Anyone tackle a similar project in their trailer and have tips or lessons learned?

[Old Navy]

Well, the order hasn't shipped yet, and as I said above, I really don't need this, so I hit the cancel button. As for what an "amazing deal" was, it was an MS2012 bundled with an ME-RC50 remote and DC fuse block with 300A fuse. It was shipped and sold by Amazon for $859.

I think I will go forward with running some 10/2 to the storage compartment anyway so I can eventually install a charger, and maybe inverter, close to the batteries.

[Trout One]

I'd be curious to know more about this for my 1706FB. I was pondering the possibility of installing a good inverter when I upgrade my battery to a 200 amp Lifeline AGM, primarily to support a CPAP machine while boondocking. As things stand; I have to carry my Goal Zero 400 battery with me for that. It would also simplify my solar suitcase selection as I would only need one connector to the solar port on the side of the trailer, though an 8mm connector for the Goal Zero would be a good thing for those few times we lose power at home.

That said, I don't think I'd like to get involved with relocating my shore power connector, which is about halfway down the side of the trailer. I'd pretty much envisioned locating the inverter in the front storage compartment near the door with the battery switch, which is only three or four feet from the shore power connector.

Thoughts? TIA!

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Old Navy

Well, the order hasn't shipped yet, and as I said above, I really don't need this, so I hit the cancel button. As for what an "amazing deal" was, it was an MS2012 bundled with an ME-RC50 remote and DC fuse block with 300A fuse. It was shipped and sold by Amazon for $859.

I think I will go forward with running some 10/2 to the storage compartment anyway so I can eventually install a charger, and maybe inverter, close to the batteries.

It's back up to $1,700 on Amazon.

[Trout One]

Originally Posted by BobC

It's back up to $1,700 on Amazon.

Wow. Never let it be said Amazon won't rip you... The price on InvertersRUs for this unit is $1394.55

https://invertersrus.com/product/magnumenergy-ms2012/

[Old Navy]

Originally Posted by Trout One

Wow. Never let it be said Amazon won't rip you... The price on InvertersRUs for this unit is $1394.55

https://invertersrus.com/product/magnumenergy-ms2012/

It also included the ME-RC50 remote and a 300A ANL Fuse Block. When I add all 3 items to my cart at invertersRUs, it added up to $1669, so not too far off. I have bought from invertersRUs, and they are good people. $859 was a great deal.

[Trout One]

Indeed it was a good deal. And I forgot about the remotes - my bad. Prices are a lot closer when all that is added in.


Still studying the extra wiring to make something like that happen in my trailer.

[Old Navy]

Originally Posted by Trout One

I was pondering the possibility of installing a good inverter when I upgrade my battery to a 200 amp Lifeline AGM, primarily to support a CPAP machine while boondocking.

The Magnum is really designed to be the heart and brain of your electrical system, and requires reconfiguration of both AC and DC systems. It sounds like a small inverter connected directly to your battery would serve the purpose you describe. Maybe install a dedicated outlet near the bed. The Magnum is more for people who want to run their entire AC panel from their inverter. I suspect running the 10/2 for the AC side would be easy for you, but big inverter = big battery cables. I think Magnum specs huge 4/0 cables for the MS2012. Not so hard if your batteries are in the front storage compartment with the inverter.

If you really want to go "all in", Inverters R Us has a very good deal on the 2K Victron Multiplus, at $982 after coupon code. One of the nice things about Victron is the way their components integrate. For instance, it you have a Victron Charger and a Victron Solar Charge Controller, they will link and synchronize. So if you are charging your batteries with a charger, your solar controller won't see 14+ volts and assume your batteries are full.

[Trout One]

Originally Posted by Old Navy

...If you really want to go "all in", Inverters R Us has a very good deal on the 2K Victron Multiplus, at $982 after coupon code. One of the nice things about Victron is the way their components integrate. For instance, it you have a Victron Charger and a Victron Solar Charge Controller, they will link and synchronize. So if you are charging your batteries with a charger, your solar controller won't see 14+ volts and assume your batteries are full.

That's really good to know. I've been seriously considering a Victron controller if I go with the Goal Zero 200 watt suitcase panels anyway; this may have just tipped the scales.


Thanks!




Bob

[Marty]

Originally Posted by Trout One

I'd be curious to know more about this for my 1706FB. I was pondering the possibility of installing a good inverter when I upgrade my battery to a 200 amp Lifeline AGM, primarily to support a CPAP machine while boondocking. As things stand; I have to carry my Goal Zero 400 battery with me for that. It would also simplify my solar suitcase selection as I would only need one connector to the solar port on the side of the trailer, though an 8mm connector for the Goal Zero would be a good thing for those few times we lose power at home.

That said, I don't think I'd like to get involved with relocating my shore power connector, which is about halfway down the side of the trailer. I'd pretty much envisioned locating the inverter in the front storage compartment near the door with the battery switch, which is only three or four feet from the shore power connector.

Thoughts? TIA!

I have a 1706fb and have my 2 AGM 100ah batteries, 1000watt inverter and new AC plug with USB ports all under the bed side of the dinette bench. Also have an external on/off and bluetooth battery monitor that uses a phone app. It's a bit tight but everything fit and kept the storage bay clean. I didn't feel the need to do a whole RV inverter given it's such a small trailer. Also have 2 100 watt Solar suitcases that I plug into the solar port. Dry camp a lot and it's all we have needed.

[Trout One]

Originally Posted by Marty

I have a 1706fb and have my 2 AGM 100ah batteries, 1000watt inverter and new AC plug with USB ports all under the bed side of the dinette bench. Also have an external on/off and bluetooth battery monitor that uses a phone app. It's a bit tight but everything fit and kept the storage bay clean. I didn't feel the need to do a whole RV inverter given it's such a small trailer. Also have 2 100 watt Solar suitcases that I plug into the solar port. Dry camp a lot and it's all we have needed.

That was pretty much my original thinking, though with a 1500 watt inverter. Still looking at 2 X 100ah batteries vs. the one big 200ah battery (which I would bet is just two 100s in a case...). Glad to know the 1000 watt inverter works well! Probably not going the lithium route as I'm not sure I'd want to spend the money making sure I didn't ruin the Suburban's alternator circuitry.

Many thanks,


Bob

[johnevans3]

I did a similar setup for my 2106FBS. Have 100AH Ionic lithium battery with Bluetooth monitor built in (really nice to not have to pay big bucks for Victron) feeding a 1200 watt inverter feeding a duplex outlet on each side of the bed. Can run an extension cord to tv, coffee pot or anything else needing less than 1000 watts or so. Haven’t tried the microwave yet but that may be more than the inverter can power up. I charge the Ionic with solar and supplement with a A/C powered lithium charger. When the generator is running a couple of hours a day if needed. Also when the generator is running the factory installed charger/converter charges the 2 lead acid batteries for the house. Little cumbersome but cheap way to beef up drastically the A/C power needs when dry camping. I would suggest looking at the Ionic lithium batteries which have been primarily marketed to the marine/fishing industry. The Bluetooth app is a big deal maker.

[Marty]

Originally Posted by Trout One

That was pretty much my original thinking, though with a 1500 watt inverter. Still looking at 2 X 100ah batteries vs. the one big 200ah battery (which I would bet is just two 100s in a case...). Glad to know the 1000 watt inverter works well! Probably not going the lithium route as I'm not sure I'd want to spend the money making sure I didn't ruin the Suburban's alternator circuitry.

Many thanks,


Bob

Yes I hear you. Those AGM's are sooo heavy. I'm hoping to switch to Lithiums some day but not at the current prices. If you are looking for a Battery Monotor these are great for price. You dont have to run wires and the blue tooth app is amazing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCW49YM...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[thataway4]

I am late to the "party". I have owned both the Magnum MS2012 and currently am using the Victron Multiples 12/ 2000/80. Both are excellent units. I feel that the Victron is a better unit. It does more. It will boost voltage, and give additional power if the unit is plugged in at the "end of the line" where there may be low voltage.

The problem is several fold. Yes, heavy cable (4/0 for only a 3' run in the Victron case), from two LiFePO4 100 amp hour batteries, plus fused for 300 amps. This is basically close to 200 amp hours of power available. On the Magnum, I had 4 205 amp hour Golf cart batteries--also giving about 200 amps of usable power (without discharging over 50%--and having a huge weight penalty).

A couple of 110 amp hour batteries are not going to be enough power for any substantial use, such as induction stove, or major use of microwave. I agree if you only want to run a CPAP or electronics, a smaller PSW inverter makes far more sense.

I would also not be real enthusiastic about running vinyl sheathed Romex externally. If done, I would want it further isolated from the frame of the trailer, and supported every 6".

[rharms]

I have a 2401rg and put an inverter in 3 years ago. Put it in the "basement" across from battery disconnect. (Hung charge controller right inside the door).Put an outside electric receptacle on the frame of the trailer under the inverter and had to drill holes in the floor to run power from inverter to receptacle, and also large wires to battery box. I use the shore power electrical cord and run it from the trailer power in receptacle to the electric box that the inverter is connected to. That's zip tied to the frame. My inverter power button is inside the trailer on the panel under the fridge. A few more holes to get that installed and run the cord from inverter along the rails on the other side of the trailer from the power cord. Covered and zip tied to the frame. My Minnie sits out in boondock area and hasn't been moved. Batteries all in a box (on the ground) under where battery was located. But, I think if I did want to pull out and travel it would all still be good! Coffee pot, microwave, hair dryer!!, lights, small vacuum, immersion blender, crock pot...all in boon docks. Love it.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Marty

Yes I hear you. Those AGM's are sooo heavy. I'm hoping to switch to Lithiums some day but not at the current prices. If you are looking for a Battery Monotor these are great for price. You dont have to run wires and the blue tooth app is amazing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCW49YM...ing=UTF8&psc=1

That's a voltage based meter, which isn't much help on an RV. To use it properly you have to have your batteries basically disconnected for an hour to get a valid reading. Any charging or usage will give a false reading for an hour or more.

It's always better to use a amp hour tracking battery monitor. The battery does not need to be at rest and the results reported are amp hours in minus amp hours out to provide a true state of charge.

[MadMaxWinny]

Spot on, Creative. It's instructive to make a list of what you actually NEED an inverter for. For me, a simple 1000w wired within 3 feet of the house batteries, no auto-transfer switch, then wired to a power strip suits my needs. With a couple of unplug/plugs, my TV & surround is covered, and there's outlets for anything else I might need. I have a 3kw inverter/charger on the boat, but no genset. Total overkill.

As Creative also said, spend your money on a good amp-hour meter. Voltage is nearly useless for system monitoring.

[Trout One]

Originally Posted by Marty

Yes I hear you. Those AGM's are sooo heavy. I'm hoping to switch to Lithiums some day but not at the current prices...

Good thoughts all, thanks, everyone! This is one of the issues I'm factoring in - additional weight on the hitch. Either way, 2 batteries or the big honkin' mother of a battery, adds another 70 lbs to the hitch over what I have. Plus, I'm adding 30 lb propane tanks for longer trips, so add that as well.

Gotta start watching hitch weight next year when all this starts happening. Momma wants to keep her Blackstone and it only fits in the front storage compartment.

[ScopeDope]

Here's what I did. Do not try this yourself unless you are knowledgeable of the electrical systems of your RV and are experienced in wiring, inverters, solar, etc. Here's my story:

I have a 2019 MM, 2108DS. I installed two 160 Watt solar panels on the roof, using the heavy white Durabond Tape. Mounted the panels on top of the RV, on top of a piece of Coraplast of the same size as each panel to give them a little distance/space from the roof. That was a year ago. Ran the #10 solar wiring down alongside the refrigerator chimney by placing them inside of Pex, which I also slid down from the roof vent to be able to reach the inside of the trailer behind the oven.

From there, the #10 goes to the Solar Charge Controller mounted in the starboard side of the pass-thru storage, up against the aft wall of that storage area, inside the storage area but very near the main entry door.

From the charge controller, #10 again to the front of the compartment where I mounted a battery switch just like the one that is factory installed on the port side of the pass-thru storage area. From there, out the bottom and up to the two 6-volt Trojan T-145 flooded lead acid batteries on the tongue. Those 2 batteries are wired in series (1-0 wiring) to make a 12-Volt bank. T-145s have a capacity of 260 AmpHours. Your stock battery was 72 AmpHour rated. At least, mine was.

From the batteries I ran 1-0 wiring (yes, it's big, and expensive wiring) through a 250 amp fuse block, then out of the battery box and back to the 3000 Watt inverter that is also mounted in the same starboard side of the pass-thru storage area, forward in the narrow storage area part. BTW, by "starboard", I mean the side of the trailer with the entry door. I chose the 3000 watt inverter solely based on the availability of a terminal block on the back of the inverter for #10 wiring (more to come on that in a minute). The 1-0 wires from the battery go to the DC side of the inverter, which is close to the very front of that compartment. The positive actually goes through another cutoff switch first, a switch just like the regular battery switch that was factory mounted in the same area on the port side (that's the slide-out side of the trailer).

If you're keeping count, and keeping up with me, you'll see I have 3 switches that are just like the original battery switch.

From the 110V output of the inverter, I ran "outdoor duty" 8/3 romex under the bottom of the trailer, wire-tied along the channel, back to the compartment under the oven. At that point the Romex enters the newly installed TS-30 (30 amp) transfer switch. I cut the source power romex (orange in my trailer) that comes from the 30 amp shore power socket (where the power cable is plugged in)... I cut that orange romex in such a manner as to have enough length to run both ends into the TS-30 transfer switch. By both ends, I mean one end coming from the power panel, about 18" long now that it has been cut, and the other free end created by the cut -- that one goes into the TS-30, also.

The connections are available on YouTube, but basically, what happens when install is complete is:

1. If you plug in shore power, everything operates normally, as the shore power passes through the transfer switch, pulls the relays closed, and connects shore power back like normal -- powering the supply panel. Everything works normally, but only after 35 seconds... that's normal, it is the delay self-imposed by the TS-30 in deciding what to do. After 35 seconds, you get regular shore power as if nothing was ever installed and as if nothing was changed.

2. If you're boon-docking, you don't have shore power. If you want 110 Volts, you turn on the inverter. I have mounted the optional inverter power switch inside, just at the bottom of the night-stand table, just to the right of the main entry door. With the inverter on, the power panel is fed by the inverter. Technically, you could run the air-conditioner on the batteries, but in reality, that's never going to work... those batteries would last about 30 seconds, then likely ruined. So, you have to know that's not permitted on battery/inverter power. However, you certainly can run the microwave for a few minutes at a time. I wouldn't, and don't try to run it for 15 minutes uninterrupted, but it's nice to be able to use the microwave for 3-4 minutes at a time, OR the Keurig, with no shore-power. Notice, I said "OR", not "and". Use them one at a time. You can also run the TV, and small appliances and chargers, for phones and tablets.

If the Chairman of the Board wants to use a hair blower, or hair curler, well.... if that's the only item in use it will probable work, but will use up a lot of your amp-hours... really draining the battery. But, it would work.

If you watch the YouTube video about the TS-30, you'll learn that there is a problem that arises if you don't complete the final wiring step. You must remove the Power Converter/Battery Charger wire from the circuit breaker in the Power panel, and it must also be run through the TS-30... otherwise, when you turn on the inverter, the batteries will try to run the Power Converter/Battery Charger, which will use battery power to try and charge the batteries.... DUH, that simply is not going to work. So, by running the Power Converter/Battery Charger through the TS-30, and then back to the breaker, the PC/Charger works fine on Shore Power, but does not work when the Inverter is turned on.

So, when you have no PC/Charger, then it's nice to have 330 Watts of solar power. When solar charging is desired, the Solar/Charge controller takes the electricity generated from the solar panels, about 18-20 volts, converts it to 13, or so volts, and sends it to the batteries. Most of the time, solar charging is left on, by leaving the associated switch (remember there are 3 of them, in the On position. But if you need to work on the solar system, or if you're storing your trailer in a cave, as I do, I can turn off the solar, turn off the power going to the inverter from the batteries, and, as always, turn off the regular, factory installed battery switch. Any/all options are available. All of them off means no battery drain... assuming you don't leave the little tongue jack light on. Double check that visually.

And, the trailer tongue jack works with the factory battery switch in the off position -- it's wired direct to the battery. And, yes, I do store my RV in the caves here in Kansas City...about 65-70 degrees year round. It's about 28 outside here right now.

I could have gone with a 2,000 watt inverter, but could not find one with terminals on the 110V side -- they all had 110V receptacles, This 3,000 watt unit has both. I wanted a secure connection for the 110V 8/3 romex.

It's nice to have 110V when boon-docking, without cranking up a generator in the morning when the camp area is quiet. But, even though the TS-30 transfer switch makes it all pretty seamless when you turn on the inverter, you really need to understand how much, really how little, power you have, and how you can use it wisely to be comfortable, and make coffee, and use the microwave. You must have the air conditioner off at all times when on inverter power, and it's best if the fridge is running on propane, but that's the way it normally is for those two items when boon-docking.

I love my installation, it gives me a lot of flexibility when I go out in the boonies. It was a bit of a job to get everything installed, but it sure is nice. I would not recommend this layout if you have no understanding of electrical, volts, amps, and wiring.

[MicroMinnie]

Renogy has a 2000 & 3000w inverter/charger transfer switch with terminals only btw, downside is that inverter runs on battery no matter what.

But recently bought a lifepo4 100ah battery ($600) and changed the charger out as well. contemplated going the transfer switch/inverter route but decided too much hassle for the trailer. so did a 600w inverter to just the TV instead.

Wire thickness and lenght are important when pulling 12v 200A+ without frying the trailer. so anyone doing it keep that in mind.