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Nope, normal operation with some "hidden" features!
The switch is designed as "momentary". That means it stays only as lone as you push it. That allows you to use battery to move a relay that latches in the last postion, on or off! Saves using battery full time to hold that relay!
In other words, the switch does it's thing, not to close/open the circuit but to move the relay which does that.
Then the relay has a magnetic feature which holds the contacts open/closed while we stop using battery at the switch! It makes dry camping battery last longer!
Batteries are so simple we can get really confused if we are not watching real close! I suspect this is the case.
When we look at voltage, we are looking only at the post, not the entire battery so if we read too soon after any change like charge or discharge, the post voltage may not tell us the true voltage determined by the chaemicals all down through the battery!
So a quick look may confuse us?
Maybe try this as a test of the switch and relay operation. Disconnect the battery by the switch, that should seperate it from the coach items like lights, pump, fans. It also should disconnect it from any charging from the converter and it should also be cut off from the engine alternator if the engine were running.
Not totally disconnected as there is yet anoother "secret"! There are safety items left connected, even with the cutoff open! Things like propane and CO detectors, etc are still using some power and it CAN run the batteryies down over a winter storage!
Important thing to keep in mind. When battery cutoff is off, there are STILL drains on the batteries!
Wait a while like a day and THEN chaeck for a difference in the coach and chassis batter readings. Likely to find diference!
Some tests for some other points are easy also. Check for a green light on co or propane detectors whille the batteries are "cutoff" and you may find they are still connected to power the green light!
When the coach batteries set for a bit and the RV is not plugged in, they will go down a small amount. If you want to test that the converter is working, p,ug in and see the coach battery voltage jump up as it charges!
OR
If you want to verify the gizmo (mode solenoid) that connects chassis to coach to charge while drinving is doing it right, try this:
Check the voltage of both when engine is off. Start the engine and you should see the chassis and coach batteries both jump up and follow the RPM as you rev the engine!
When engine is running all batteries should read near the same and go higher on higher RPM!
That DOES NOT mean the batteries are all fully charge immediately but it does show they are all connected together with the alternator and you are seeing that voltage.
It's getting there but it take shours to fully charge any of the batteries if they were down a fair amount!
This is a kind of false reading called "surface charge"! You see what's at the surface but not what the entire battery charge is doing!
Are you a guy that like to look at electrical drawings to verify things? I likely can point you to the spot to check this whole idea to understand it better, if it fits you?
I like the electronics in the older RV, just because WE can see and feel it work!
WHOOPS!
EDIT as I went to look at the drawings and find a problem with the RV ID??
There seems no 2003 Brave 33V listed in the Winnebago drawings?
There should be a label next to the driver's left side with the info of which exact RV you have. Can you verify that info? Also check if it is a Ford or Chevy chassis as some I looked at had both in the drawings.
I like to check my "top of the head" info!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one! 
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