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Old 03-27-2010, 03:33 PM   #1
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Charging Solenoid

Chassis batt failed (4.5 years). Put in new batt (Interstate, $127 @ Cmpg Wld; pricey, Eh?) in driving rain, thunder, lightning and wind---other than that the wx was just fine. Now there's no charging indicated at house batts w/engine running. Chassis batt charges OK & no Alternator lite. House batts charge OK with Gen and Shore pwr.

Question: What should the OnePlace volts read for house batts w/engine running? Right now they read 12.7 decreasing to 12.4. Then I started the gennny.

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Old 03-27-2010, 06:10 PM   #2
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Mine usually read about 13.8 volts while the engine is running
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:17 PM   #3
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Thudman;

I suspect your charging solenoid has failed. Mine did the same thing. It was located under the entry step above the battery box. With the engine running you should have approx 13.7 volts going in and coming out. The contacts get burned and don't make good contact. I replaced mine and the House batteries are now being charged properly.

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Old 03-27-2010, 08:50 PM   #4
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The solenoid in the compartment under the steps, behind the panel is on the left of the two. If it is not showing 13 + volts with the engine running, it is most likely not working. To replace you will need a continuous duty, 100 plus amp solenoid. I use a 160 amp model that sometimes is referred to as a public safety type.
When you remove the panel use caution as the rear has exposed 12 volt wires.
Lichtsinn is a very good source for the Winnebago replacement
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:24 AM   #5
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I copied this from another post on another forum some time back. Maybe it will be of use.

"Trombetta part number is 262-251-5454
Tie Contactor
Copper contacts 114-1211-010-03 (Winnie PN)
Silver contacts 114-1200-020 (Trombetta PN)
Looking at the Trombetta site it appears that they now also make a 15 volt version of this relay. The 15 volt version has a pull-in voltage of 9.5 and a hold voltage of 4.0 versus 7.5 volt pull-in and a hold voltage of 3.5 volts on the on the 12 volt version. "
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:41 PM   #6
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Thanks folks for the info. Think I'll order the part from Lichtsinn and hire a Tech to put it in, otherwise I might electrocute myself.

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Old 03-29-2010, 02:22 PM   #7
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I ordered the solenoid from Lichtsinn (~$28). What do I need to know to install it myself? Disconnect house and chassis batt ground wire? Any other elec hazards (besides me)?

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Old 03-29-2010, 06:43 PM   #8
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First I would disconnect the ground (black) wire from the batteries.

Then you will see the plate with tow thumb screws on each side, (printing about circuit breakers on it)remove and you will see the circuit breaker panel. On the sides of this panel are two phillips head screws, remove them.

At this point I place an old folded over bath towel over the batteries and use it as an insulator in case you somehow touch the panel to the hot leads of the batteries.

You can now remove the heavy red wires from the left solenoid 1/2 inch wrench, then the small wire from the front. Note there are a few wires on each large lug, keep them together so you do not mess up the reinstall.

Once the wires are removed use the phillips screw driver to remove the two mounting screws from the solenoid. Remove the solenoid and you are half way finished.

Reverse the removal procedure and you have completed the install.

This should take you about 45 minutes since you have not done it before and will give you satisfaction when completed.

Check out the install by using a volt meter on the batteries with the engine running

Good luck, let us know how you made out
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Old 03-29-2010, 07:45 PM   #9
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depchief:

EXCELLENT guidance. I'll give it a go. If you see sparks and smoke, you'll know I'm in deep doo-doo. Thanks much. Will provide After Action Report (if able).

Thudman
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:16 AM   #10
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I chickened out. Disconnected three battery leads (two house, one chassis) and accessed the solenoid & multi-metered the two solenoid leads. Zero volts on left (aft) lead, but 6.75 volts on right (fwd) lead. Exceeded my electrical knowledge, so I closed up the whole mess & called an RV Tech to do it. Maybe the end of this week.

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Old 04-06-2010, 04:48 PM   #11
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1.Just disconnect both the chassis and coach battery negative cables
2.Unbolt solenoid
3.Remove cables one at a time and move to new solenoid
4.Bolt solenoid back in place
5.Replace negative cables on batteries

Nothing to measure and you can't go wrong.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:45 AM   #12
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Thx for info, but with all three batts disconnected, 6.75V is still present at the fwd solenoid terminal; and that red wire to the solenoid is BIG!

Thudman, the Chicken-Hearted
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:46 AM   #13
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that would have to be coming from the converter. Just shut off the shore power while you change the solenoid, it should be over 12 volts however. If you disconnect both negative cables from the batteries and the shore power, there won't be any voltage on the solenoid.
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:28 PM   #14
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I disconnected all batteries as well as shore power. Totally dead rig, from electric input point of view. Still had 6.75V on the fwd solenoid terminal. Mystery. That's why I scheduled a Tech to change it out. Will report on the results in a few days.

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Old 04-07-2010, 04:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thudman View Post
I disconnected all batteries as well as shore power. Totally dead rig, from electric input point of view. Still had 6.75V on the fwd solenoid terminal. Mystery. That's why I scheduled a Tech to change it out. Will report on the results in a few days.

Thudman
About the only thing left would be the solar charger. With the solenoid removed from the chassis nothing could happen. It might possibly be a battery in a radio to keep the preselections, but that is doubtful. with the batteries and converter disconnected or shut off there is nothing that could provide any amount of current. If you have additional solar panels besides the small one that came on the motor home pull the fuse.
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:19 PM   #16
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Thudman The 6 volts is residual and will dissipate.

However if you are not comfortable doing the change you are smart to farm out the install.

Hopefully you can watch and gain experience. I am positive it will happen again.
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:10 PM   #17
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I always wanted to watch a residual dissipation. Sounds exciting......kinda like paint drying or a post-Viagra syndrome. Possibly rain tomorrow, so maybe the Tech will arrive Friday.

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Old 04-10-2010, 01:45 PM   #18
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YEA, I had to change mine out last month. I bought it from a NAPA auto parts store. I just disconnected the negitive battery cable and carefully unbolted the solinoid and change the wires 1 at a time, then rescrewed the solinoid back in place. Started the engine and checked the voltage at the oneplace meter. 13.8 to 14.3 volts. It must be working. U can check the voltage at the solinoid terminals also. a more truer reading. Good Luck.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:49 PM   #19
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Thudman (aka "Sparky")

Thudman, the Chicken-Hearted

Thudman, you crack me up!

And your welcome for the Trombetta part numbers.

Your residual voltage is probably the solar panel. With no load at all, a solar panel will output a voltage with just a street light overhead. With both negative battery leads disconnected, no generator, and sure power disconnected, you should have 0 Volts to chassis at all tie contactor terminals. If you have anything at all, just go on the roof and place something opaque over the solar panel and see if the residual goes away. That’s quicker than waiting for the residual dissipation.

But take it from an old timer, if you aren’t comfortable doing a job of any kind, call for help! Example; I just paid Aamco $2600 to rebuild the transmission and tail shaft on our van. Could I have done it? Maybe 40 years ago. The problem these days is coming up with the $2600 when your on a fixed income!

A long time ago, I used to be pretty sharp. The nickname is an example. Jumped on a plane in Phoenix, flew to El Paso, from there to the hospital. 10 minutes to troubleshoot, 5 minutes to install a new op-amp, and then back to the airport. Room had been down for 5 days. From then on, Fritz and Günter called me Mr. Transistor and it got around. Problem is I’ve dulled of late. I guess it’s to be expected but that doesn’t make it feel any better. Let us know how it all comes out. And don’t forget to ask here first.
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:26 PM   #20
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I installed it today........took about an hour. No sparks, smoke or flames. Started engine & had 14.3V at OnePlace. Ungawa!! Thanks to ALL on this forum for your advice and help.

Thudman
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