Clarification on "Wired for Solar"

[safestbeach]

Hi all,
I recently bought a 2020 Micro Minnie 2100BH and I am preparing to upgrade it with some rooftop solar. The documentation reads that it is "Wired for Solar" by Go Power. From what I can deduce, that means that it already has a port on the roof for the panel that is prewired to a cutout in the front storage area to install the charge controller. However, it is unclear whether this pre-wire is already protected by fuses and/or a circuit breaker and whether the wiring is already connected to the battery.
If anyone has already installed solar on their Micro Minnie, can you tell me what else besides the panels and controller do I need to install solar myself? Thanks in advance!

[backtrack15]

As you said, there is a port on the roof with the +/- MC4 connectors for a solar panel. These wires run to that cutout in the front storage area. The +12V/ground wires for the battery connection are behind that cutout as well and already connected to the battery. The +12V to the battery has no fuse (no protection whatsoever), so I added one to that wire at the trailer tongue before it entered the front wall of the trailer.

You'll likely need little extension cables (I made mine 20" long or so) to plug your solar panel into the roof-top MC4 ports. I added an in-line fuse to the +12V line from the controller to the battery (as mentioned above). I also added a breaker to the + line from the panels to the controller (so I can disconnect the panels prior to disconnecting the battery).

The image below shows the wiring on my trailer tongue (beforehand). The red wire coming from the upper-right into the 30 amp breaker was the +12V line from the controller. You can see it is directly connected to the big +12V wire from the battery (no fuse whatsoever). The ground wire from the controller is one of the white wires coming out of that black protective cover and it terminates inside the junction box on the frame a little farther back.



Below is a schematic of the wiring on my trailer.

[DavidM]

This answer is for a different brand, a new Thor Axis, but the equipment was provided by Go Power so maybe it is the same.

My special order coach was supposed to come with solar prewiring which reportedly consists of the roof top port, wiring to the controller, a 10A (almost useless) controller and wiring from the controller to the panel. Instead it also came with a single 100 watt panel. That turned out to be great because it kept the batteries charged while in storage.

The roof top port looks something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Doubl...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

The wire from the solar panels through the port to the controller is 10 gauge. That will work with more than one panel as long as they are wired in series/parallel. This is to minimize voltage drop.

The controller like I said has limited use because 200 watts exceeds its spec. So replace it with a Renogy, Victron or similar. Make sure the controller is rated for the amps you plan to deliver to the batteries and the maximum voltage from the panels. Take the Voc spec and multiply by the number of panels in series to get the maximum voltage. For example, with four 100 watt panels wired series/parallel, the Voc of each is typically about 21 volts to the maximum voltage is double or about 42. volts. The amperage is roughly the wattage, 400 in this case divided by 12 or 33 amps. So a 50 volt, 40 amp controller will work fine.

Then you will have to upgrade the wire from the controller to the battery- I would go with a minimum of 6 gauge for 400 watts. And put a 40 amp Maxi fuse near the battery.

Good luck, yours may be different.

David

[safestbeach]

Thanks for the awesome advice Backtrack15. The pictures are very helpful. So I'll add an inline fuse and a circuit breaker to my buy list. Any thoughts on panels and controllers? The Victrons seems top notch for controllers but I wasn't sure about panels. Brand? Flexible or Rigid?

[backtrack15]

Glad to help. I'm really not an expert on solar equipment, so I can't help much there. I bought a Renogy 100W rigid panel and a Renogy 20 amp MPPT controller (as a kit). I'll likely add another 100W panel in parallel sometime in the next month or so. That'll complete the system for me. I forgot to mention that I mounted the breaker for the + solar lead in the storage compartment right next to the controller. I'm pleased with this setup so far.

[AJMike]

Originally Posted by DavidM

For example, with four 100 watt panels wired series/parallel, the Voc of each is typically about 21 volts to the maximum voltage is double or about 42. volts. The amperage is roughly the wattage, 400 in this case divided by 12 or 33 amps. So a 50 volt, 40 amp controller will work fine.

Surely in reference to the voltage you mean that only for panels connected in series since parallel connections will not increase the voltage.