Driver's Power Window Doesn't Work

[BobC]

My driver's power window doesn't work (2002 Suncruiser 35U), no noise like it's trying to work or anything. The on/off switch lights and the power mirrors work and the fuse is OK. Before I tear into this, I'd like some suggestions as to how to proceed. If it makes any difference I have a Workhorse chassis.

[Morich]

I hate working on the door panels, etc as they seem to have lots of "secret" ways to attach them. I'm thinking the odds are good you will need to find those secret places and how they fasten the covers on. No screws showing , I suspect? That often means you need a thin flat bar type tool they use to pop the snap studs out of the metal and I'm also guessing you will need to do that to get in to see if you have an electrical or mechanical problem.
Sometimes, I do just jump to the harder things, rather than checking electrical as taking the cover off can get you to both mech and electric answers. I have a small "wonder bar" and just start gently going around the cover and prying to find what points are holding it on, but I'm no whiz at getting good results, either!
Just getting handles and knobs off can stump me but I have Ford brother who knows that stuff!

[BobC]

Hi, Richard, I was hoping you'd chime in. I have a set of those plastic trim and molding tool sets which are nice to have so I guess I'll start prying the covers off. I'm thinking it's not purely mechanical (other than a motor failure) since there aren't any noises. Hopefully it's something simple like the switch or loose connection.

I'm not finding the section of the wiring diagram for the power window. I can find a lot of power mirror references but not the window. Any ideas? I probably don't need it since the wiring should be obvious once it's exposed. The parts manual shows the layout of the components.

[BobC]

It's raining and I have other things to deal with so it may be a while before I can dig into this but I'll be sure to reconnect.

[Morich]

Upon further review???
I may want to change my thinking as I found more info. Looking at the wire ID chart here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

If we hit ctrl and f at same time it brings the dropdown where we can put in " power window and it gives all the wires where that shows up. 13 places!
So when scrolling down that list, I come to all the wire ID that connects to the power window and having those id may make it better to start at the switch? Depends on how hard to get the switch out?

Since you get no sounds and I assume neither up nor down work(?) that makes it seem like maybe a power supply going to both up and down rather than a single point on the switch but as part of scanning the ids, I got down to MD and it shows what I "think" is a common breaker for both power mirrow and power window. Kind of guessing there but if the mirrors work, I'm guessing the breaker is good for the windows as well?

What does leave me boggled is that I find NONE of those wire IDs on the drawing anywhere that I've looked! So do they consider the power windows to be part of the chassis and they don't give us that or am I just not seeing any of 13 wires?

Wish there was a magic way to search for wires on the drawings but it doesn't work that way, so we have to just go blind looking and not finding!

So I'm kind of down to looking at the switch wires and hoping to find labels on the wires to tell which is power coming in, so you can verify that and decide which way to chase the problem, toward the breakers (which they don't tell us about the chassis breakers) or more toward the window and maybe mechanical problems.

Part of the question may be how much it takes to get the switch out versus the door panel off!!
But also do some looking at what is working on the mirrows and the passenger side window and the switches from there as they all seem to use the same power.

No hurry! I'm getting back into getting some questions from one of the guys I 'work" with and he has new folks doing his paperwork, so It's like pulling teeth to get the right info to do this stuff remote.
He used to have his plane get me but none of us like going through airplorts of any size, so we kind of stopped and now getting the right info is not what the clerks understand to send me!

I'm likely to be here waiting till Christmas!

[BobC]

1. My passenger side is a manual, sliding window. The power mirrors work fine.

2. Great minds think alike: I was going to start at the switch panel. I know the window lock switch is getting power since the light goes on and off, so I'll start there. Even though the light goes on and off, it could be in a permanently locked position or, the up/down switch could be defective. As I mentioned before, I think the wiring will be pretty straight forward once I can see it.

Right now I'm waiting for the mobile windshield guys to get here to replace my passenger side windshield (stress cracks). Fortunately, Progressive is covering it.

[Morich]

Sounds like a plan. Since we can't get the colors of the wires, if you can get codes offf the wires and relate it to the chart, that will help sort which should be power, then if the switch rocks the right way, it should connect through to up or down and you don't need to think of wiring for the other side.
Lots of ways to try to cut down the mass of confusion if we can, so if you don't have it, don't worry about how it's wired!

Happy chasing -when it gets round to time!

[ensmitch]

We got ready to leave Sun Valley, ID on a very chilly morn and the same thing happened to us. By the time we got to the repair appointment about an hour later, it had thawed enough to start working again! Who knew that the condensation could freeze the window temporarily!

Ensmitch in 2007 Winnebago Voyage

[Rick 99037]

Someone commented they thought the power mirror was on the same breaker as the window. That wouldn't be a typical design, because the draw on the power mirrors would be much lower than a power window, and they typically fuse so the load is just above the normal draw. Putting a lower power device on a large breaker risks a light wire shorting and melting without kicking out the breaker.
But back to your issue. I've replaced many switches, but only one motor. But usually, if it's a switch, very common; it works in only one direction. Since you say you don't hear anything in either direction, the switch seems okay. I wish you'd had another power window to prove there was power to the windows. But that's too easy. No doubt you know at this point that power windows have breakers, not fuses. Finding the right one, pulling it out, and using a multimeter to check continuity is next. While it's out, find a ground, and test for voltage where the breaker goes. If there's another breaker like it on the panel, swap it in, to test the breaker. Next, if this is a GM assembly, they often use window switches in a pop-in panel you can pop up, to replace or test. You'll need to dig around to find a solid chassis ground for your test of the switch. If it does end up the motor, the good news is GM window motors are unchanged for years, and just need to be removed and replaced from their mounting bracket. Of course getting inside the door, and to the motor will be fun. Let us know how you make out!

[tderonne]

I think the power window was introduced mid-year 2002. The 2002 diagrams don't show the power windows. The 2003 does. Grabbed the image below from it. It does indeed appear that the window power is shared with the power mirror and mirror heat.

It's worth checking if yours matches the 2003 diagram though. I know my 2004 is different, it uses a 6 pin switch, where the 2003 shows a 5 pin. Strange it changed so quickly, but worth keeping in mind as you look at yours. Might also mean they had issues with the switch, just like you...

[Morich]

So when Bob gets back to it, that may cut the chase a bit more if in fact the 2002 is the same as shown in 2003 drawings. Since the powersupply is the same on both mirrows and window and the mirrow works, we can assume that power and ground are getting there, so it gets more simple to only look at the small amount left.

But I'm still glad it's not me trying to figure how to get the door panel off without beating it up too much! It's those small mysteries that make it all fun, right Bob?

[BobC]

Thanks for the info, the switch will be first on my list but I have a lot of non-RV stuff on my plate right now so it's still going to be awhile.

[95luxor]

my power window was slow and sometimes did not rise up.
Just yesterday I fixed it.
On mine it was the grease on the gear had hardened and the armature needed to be cleaned. Took a few hours but now all is better.
Also fixed my power mirrors.

[Chaffeekid]

Mine works but it is slow to raise, goes down good just slow going up. Going to try the cleaning thing.

[95luxor]

Originally Posted by Chaffeekid

Mine works but it is slow to raise, goes down good just slow going up. Going to try the cleaning thing.

Mine is still working good.
Good luck