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Old 01-06-2024, 03:42 PM   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2023
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Electrical Confusion 2001 Itasca Sundancer 29U

My 2001 itasca sundancer 429u is giving me fits !! I had new batteries and cables installed and the house battery cable positive and the chasis battery positive cable were put on the same side of a solenoid which aparently ruint that solenoid and a ground wire,,well I had the solenoid replaced and the wire repaired then the aux battery would not turn on the house batteries for 12 volts without shore power on,,so I was told it was the other solenoid was bad also,so I bought that one too,still won;t switch the house batteries on It clicks but won;t stay on I have two new batteries,two new solenoids,some new wires.Everything was fine untill I had the new batteries installed,,oh yeah the mechanic has abandoned me too.Can someone please give me an Idea what else could be the problem,please.I forgot that I bought new switch that is in the wall too,,
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Old 01-06-2024, 06:19 PM   #2
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This is the Winnebago breakdown of your MH, for future use: https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...01/1if429u.pdf
Again, for future use; always take a picture of wiring arrangements before removing any connections.


We can be certain the batteries are wired incorrectly because the problems began after having new batteries installed.
Right now my thoughts are, the main 300A fuse between the battery bank and that solenoid is blown. Otherwise with both pos and neg cables on the same terminal post would have destroyed the batteries and/or melted the solenoid stud.
To begin testing, remove the negative cable leading to the MH frame from the battery bank, then test the batteries, voltage should be near 12.6VDC for charged batteries. If voltage is lower connect a stand-alone battery charger to them (no shore power or generator running) and charge them overnight. Retest next morning 2 hrs. after disconnecting battery charger.


You sound frustrated, so at this point I would recommend calling a Rv mobile technician to correct any wiring errors and get your 12VDC system functioning correctly again.
These llinks are where you find a nearby certified RV technician:
mobile mechanics
https://camperfaqs.com/mobile-rv-repair
https://rvtaa.org/locate/
https://nrvta.com/
https://nrvia.org/


Yes hourly rates are seemingly high, but remember you are paying for expertise and experience in addition to the actual work.
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Old 01-07-2024, 07:38 PM   #3
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This is one part of the RV that is so common and also a problem so often that we really can do lots of stuff to understand it!
Kind of like tying your shoes? It seems really tricky but after we do it a few times it gets real easy!
So this is an area that we talk about a lot and if we look at it slowly and a step at a time it gets really simple! But it sounds like you've been getting some really bad info and work done so we need to start from scratch and check that it is all working.

But what level do we need to start? Do you have a meter to test voltage and resistance? At least a little used to using it? Those would be a big step and tell us what you have and what you might need explained.
No need for us to explain how to crawl if you already know how to run and ride a bike!

But one thing we might ask about is the names we may be using? We often have a shiny metal mode solenoid and then along side it is a black plastic looking relay? Both are kinda/sorta the same and folks have different names for them at times, so is this what you are calling the second solenoid? Or a different one like on the starter or generator?
Click this snip to see it better!
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This solenoid is what connects the coach and chassis batteries at times. chassis battery on left side big lug and coach battery cable on right big lug. The wire LR is what makes the solenoid operate to connect them. It brings 12volt DC down from the front to run power through a coil of wire inside and to ground using the metal case. The mounting screw makes the ground connection!
Then on the right is the coach battery disconnect relay. When we have good coach batteries and push the disconnect switch one way or the other, it engages or disengages the contacts in this relay to connect power from the left side to the right and on to things like the generator or coach fuses!

When new, the cables should have had tape at the ends to ID them. Any chance those marks are still there?
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So if this looks like what you are seeing we can go further into what should happen and how to test the different parts.
Actually pretty simple testing if you have a meter to read voltage?
For instance on the mode solenoid, when you have good chassis battery connected on the left side and somebody starts the RV engine or pushes a dash switch called different names like "boost or aux" you can feel or hear the solenoid thump as it moves. when it moves, the power you put in on the left side, then shows up on the right side!
If it passes power, it's working! Then if you have coach batteries connected on the right side, when the solenoid closes, they are connected together through the solenoid!
Just like a light switch that moves with electrical power instead of us flipping it!

Let us know what you need to go further?
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Old 01-07-2024, 10:05 PM   #4
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Thank You for the information,it helped me look and find the breakers .I saw one was out further out than the rest so I pushed it back ,then when I tried the switch again it worked and now my generator is running again,This is the second time I have asked for help here and you came to my aid Bless you all,Thank You from the bottom of my heart.
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Old 01-15-2024, 03:50 AM   #5
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My frod, was often found dead, after dry camping for 2 days, I finally figured out, that the ford solenoids in the tin box, were draining the batteries. I added a wire from the house battery 12v pos post, to the vehicle battery 12v pos post, and the problem was solved. I also added knife switches to those posts, to open the circuit, when in storage. Now I have a 2020, with different problems, to figure out.
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Old 01-15-2024, 07:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rixthe1 View Post
My frod, was often found dead, after dry camping for 2 days, I finally figured out, that the ford solenoids in the tin box, were draining the batteries. I added a wire from the house battery 12v pos post, to the vehicle battery 12v pos post, and the problem was solved. I also added knife switches to those posts, to open the circuit, when in storage. Now I have a 2020, with different problems, to figure out.
What you may be seeing is the "parasitic drains" that most all RV have.
When we use only the battery disconnect switches to cut off power drains, there are still some drains left on the batteries!

On the chassis , there are things like radio presets, ignition and door locks and on the coach system there are safety items like the CO and propane detectors.

One large drain that is easy to miss in daylight is the step and the light underneath!
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