Engine shut down

Geneb1737 · 08-08-2020, 07:38 AM

I have been running my engine when I auto level the jacks for 5 years on 2015 Itasca Sunstar 35F with no problems at all. I since replaced all 3 batteries and now when auto level is half way thru the engine shuts down. I can turn key switch off then engine will restart. Don't know what new batteries have to do with this, got me puzzled.

Gene

Winterbagoal · 08-08-2020, 08:09 AM

Is it a sudden immediate shutdown, or does it sputter and struggle, then stop?

Geneb1737 · 08-08-2020, 11:50 AM

Immediate shut down. No power to the instrument group or scan gage.

Winterbagoal · 08-08-2020, 12:10 PM

Sounds like a short. Why, during auto-leveling with engine running, is confusing.
I would verify the connections and condition of the cables at all battery posts/connections first. Pull hard on the cables, too, to see if you've got a cable that's corroded inside the lug/clamp. Most likely that scenario would be near the actual battery psosts. I had a similar problem, and the cable pulled right out of the lug, all green and dusty.
When you replaced the batteries, were any difficult/awkward to get out? Maybe a cable has been scraped bare, and is touching the frame/a ground point. Might not be obvious, but check cable insulation near any sharp edges in your battery box/tray area.
Another thought might be "pretend" you're replacing them from scratch and redo the installation and connections. Maybe you've accidentally connected something incorrectly, or it simply wasn't tightened fully.
Hard to troubleshoot this one over the net.

Morich · 08-08-2020, 01:02 PM

Do you have other times when you let the engine idle for a period of time close to the time it takes to level? I would first want to verify that it is a real issue between extending the jacks and the engine and not just a random event which seems connected due to timing. My thinking goes toward fully defining the problem before looking for the potential causes as that is one way to cut the chase a whole bunch.
How often it has done this will be one big question. Does it do it all the time or only once? If only once there are numerous engine problems that might have happened. Things as simple as a fuel filter? The newer ignitions have a whole set of electronics which all have to agree before things work. On my 2015 the drivers window programming runs through the transmission control module!
But if it does it and can be repeated, noting exactly where the engine shuts down and looking at the jacks for a cable, etc. might be worthwhile.
A full survey of what's happening and what else is going on at the time is where I would start.

Geneb1737 · 08-08-2020, 06:28 PM

Thanks for the reply. I read or heard somewhere that engine running is less demanding on the pump then by running if from battery only. Had the batteries installed by dealer but will check the cables and for shorts.

Geneb1737 · 08-08-2020, 06:34 PM

Have let the engine idle for several mins. with no problem. I had this problem happen 2 times in a row and both times right 2 jacks were grounds. Engine shuts down and inst. light go blank as will as my scan gage. thanks for your reply.

Morich · 08-08-2020, 06:51 PM

My manual says to always have the engine running as that is one way to assure there is adequate power for the pump. The engine alternator providing power does away with the potential for low battery voltage to make it hard for the pump to run well. Always a good idea.
The thoughts on shorts is pretty open to me as a short to ground, killing the engine seems pretty low chance to me due to the engine wiring not going very near the jacks and wiring and a short from the engine wiring to ground to totally kill the engine would seem to be a pretty solid short and I might guess it would certainly blow a fuse or weld itself to the metal, ruling out a restart.
But both of those are guessing and I know how far off track that can get me!
I find the meanest problems to fix are those which happen now and then but not all the time, so that we are not expecting a failure and may not notice what else is going on at the time, so that we may get a totally wrong idea. If we can get something to fail the same way over and over, we can test and look until we find it but those quick "here and gone" types are awful.
I am dealing with a car crank failing and it has been doing it for at least six months but so flaky two different Ford dealers have not found the solution as it seems to change and the car has to set for about 8 hours to make it fail! I certainly hope yours is less fuss to find !

Wyatt · 08-09-2020, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geneb1737

Thanks for the reply. I read or heard somewhere that engine running is less demanding on the pump then by running if from battery only. Had the batteries installed by dealer but will check the cables and for shorts.

And when you say you “replaced all three batteries”, which were you referring to? Two coach and one engine, or what? That helps us all help you...

Geneb1737 · 08-09-2020, 04:42 AM

Thanks for the reply. All that you said makes sence to me also. Will keep digging.

Geneb1737 · 08-09-2020, 04:43 AM

The 2 house and 1 engine battery.

DryCreek · 08-12-2020, 06:38 PM

Check your hydraulic fluid level.

One of the best diagnostic tools I have used is the inexpensive voltage indicator that plugs into your cigarette lighter. Make sure that you have it in one powered by the chassis battery. When I noticed my voltage getting all the way down to 9 VDC, with the engine running, I knew that I had a problem with my jacks. The voltage will get so low that the ECU shuts down. You may also notice your trip odometer has reset itself too.

Getting the fluid level back up to where it belongs cured my issue.

Hicks3456 · 08-13-2020, 07:37 AM

My coach does that when leveling and not plugged into shore power but I have a bigger issue with the safeties that are installed for slides and levelers to prevent someone from activating when driving down the road.

I have had two service people work on it $$$$ and neither has fixed it yet. I have discussed with Winnebago and they have ideas but none that field people can use to solve the issue.

I am hoping to get to Winnebago service place by end of month and get it repaired. For now my safeties are not in place.

fkempf216 · 08-13-2020, 08:27 AM

Recheck your battery and battery disconnect contractor connections.

Rick 99037 · 08-13-2020, 08:32 AM

In reading the collective wisdom here, I thought DryCreek's voltage watch comments worth doing for sure. Your engine electronics is likely the most voltage sensitive thing you have. It would be nice to eliminate some of the variables in this equation. I would charge up my batteries fully, and then express concern to the place that installed the batteries, that you didn't seem to have the capacity you had before; that you want them given a quick load test to verify they are performing to spec. An additional diagnostic would be jumpering your auto's battery to the chassis battery, and running the cycle to see if it dies or not. There's just too many variables, so narrow the field.

NeilV · 08-15-2020, 06:23 AM

Sometimes if the engine idle speed is low, alternator/voltage regulator is weak or battery connections are marginal you will stall the engine when you apply heavy electrical loads to the charging system such as when the jacks hit the ground and pressure builds in the leveling system since there will not be enough current to keep the ECU operating.

Clean the battery cables and ensure that you are solidly getting over 13 volts measured at the engine battery when the engine is idling. Then deploy the jacks while the voltage meter is still attached and verify that the voltage does not start dropping below 12 volts just prior to everything shutting down.

If you keep your foot on the accelerator and boost engine RPM to above 1,000 does it prevent the shut down? If so its more likely engine charging system related. If you have a ODB2 gauge available you could plug that it to also check for error codes.

If the engine battery was just recently replaced because it was problematic it could be a sign that the alternator/voltage regulator was acting up and on its way out while its also possible that an undersized or defective engine battery was installed.

Upinsmoke · 08-15-2020, 01:14 PM

I have the exact same unit and, luckily, have never had the issue. While I've always run the engine while leveling, I also sit in the drivers seat and raise the RPM's to about 1500 while it's leveling.
While the pump motor is no larger than a lawn mower starter, I'm not sure how much extra "draw" is there because of the pump.
Good luck, I'll be watching for the fix.