Generator Fuel Filter

Wizard · 09-27-2008, 05:35 AM

Anyone know why Onan suggest that only dealers change fuel filter. Planning to change all filters/fluids soon. Is there something that I don't know. It's only a 1/4" npt and barbed fitting. What gives. Never seen a fitting I couldn't change.

Wizard · 09-27-2008, 05:35 AM

Anyone know why Onan suggest that only dealers change fuel filter. Planning to change all filters/fluids soon. Is there something that I don't know. It's only a 1/4" npt and barbed fitting. What gives. Never seen a fitting I couldn't change.

Olive · 09-27-2008, 06:26 AM

Wizard, I'm sure you have a newer model than was in my 1999 Adventurer but I changed all the filters on it myself. It was a Onan 4k, but don't remember the exact model number anymore. I'm just glad I remember yesterday

.

Pubtym · 09-27-2008, 06:30 AM

It's a simple and inexpensive change. I ordered my filter direct from Onan website. I would change out the screw hose clamps to new ones at same time. Don't over tighten clamps on reinstall. Medium tight...

Caution...during filter removal...be prepared for some residual fuel to leak out of supply line and filter. Best not to smoke a cigar during this service to fuel filter.

Tenn.Vol. · 09-27-2008, 06:52 AM

As I remember my 5.5 Gold had two inline filters. ONe was at the input of the pump, and
the second at the input of carb. Both had a barb on one end and threads on the other end.
I took one of the filters to the auto parts and got two replacement filtes. The one on
the carb. was a little difficult but doable for sure..........Tenn.

dirko · 09-27-2008, 07:45 AM

Hi Ho: I just replaced the filter and found that the standard filter at CW is not quite the right one, but they did have one of the correct filters under a pile of stuff.

The real problem is that it is tricky to get the pipe threads to seal properly and the consequence for a poor seal is dripping gas which constitutes a safety hazard.

Does anyone have a trick to getting the pipe threads to seal? I don't think teflon tape is a good idea. How about pipe dope? Antiseize coompound?
Dirk

Pubtym · 09-27-2008, 08:46 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tenn.Vol.:
As I remember my 5.5 Gold had two inline filters. ONe was at the input of the pump, and
the second at the input of carb. Both had a barb on one end and threads on the other end.
I took one of the filters to the auto parts and got two replacement filtes. The one on
the carb. was a little difficult but doable for sure..........Tenn. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yup..I have the 5.5 gasser...and replaced both fuel filters at same time...with OE parts from Onan. Removed the air filter box to do the one next to the carb.

John_Canfield · 09-27-2008, 09:17 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dirk Ostermiller:
--snip--Does anyone have a trick to getting the pipe threads to seal? I don't think teflon tape is a good idea. How about pipe dope? Antiseize coompound? Dirk </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Dirk - although Teflon tape is everywhere and extremely popular, pipe dope with Teflon actually makes a better and more consistent seal. Whenever I have a critical or important application (like a threaded joint that would be difficult to access after installation), I always use pipe dope with Teflon. If it is a non-critical joint, I usually use tape because it is less messy.

When I installed compressed air piping and several outlets and drains in my shop, I silver-soldered the copper tubing and used nothing but pipe dope on all threaded connections. Turned on the air for the first time and had zero leaks as expected.

One problem I heard reported about Teflon tape is that it makes the connection so 'slippery', it is easy to over-torque it and break something.

I looked at my can of pipe dope but it does not list gas or diesel as an application. Maybe an auto parts store would have a suitable dope (-insert appropriate joke here-).

SteveG · 09-28-2008, 06:34 AM

I just changed my 7.5KW generator on our 2004 Journey. The amount of fuel leakage surprised me. I thought it would be just a small amount. I had a pan available so nothing hit the ground. After a minute or so I got concerned that it would not stop so I plugged the pipe end until I could get the dry fitting re-attached and then attached the fuel supply side. Got a little fuel oil down the arm. Others have experienced something similar? Better way to do it? SteveG

dirko · 09-29-2008, 08:48 PM

Hi Ho: I have learned over the years that anytime a fuel line is opened fuel will drain out. The line from the tank can hold quite a bit on a MH. I always take a couple of pencils to plug the tubing. And wearing nitril gloves keeps it off the hands. And cardboard on the ground catches what doesn't go in the pan.
Good luck, Dirk

Rock-Rocker · 09-30-2008, 03:18 AM

What I have found that works for me 99% of the time is whenever I'm making up a standard pipe fitting is to coat the threads with pipe dope first, wrap with teflon tape then coat again with pipe dope. I can't ever remember a fitting leak after doing this.

Izzyblueye · 09-30-2008, 04:28 AM

Golf tees make great gas hose plugs too. I have been using them since I was kid.