House battery drains when using shore power

[rayhorrocks]

I have a 2005 Itasca 37f on a workhorse chassis and the house battery drains when I am camping using 50 amp hookup at campsites. I have replaced the Battery Disconnect Relay switch and still have the issue.

[Wayne M]

I have found that most RV's need the disconnect switch(s) in the ON position in order for the batteries to charge. Just thinking out-loud!

[rayhorrocks]

Thanks for your input Wayne. I love the people helping people on these threads! Thank you!
I found when the disconnect switch is in the off position the electricity is shut off for the coach, even when hooked to 50 amp or 30 amp campgrounds power. When I leave the switch on, the aux. batteries do not charge. The coach circuits pull from the batteries until the batteries are drained. Then all power to the coach ends. If I run the engine for a few minutes, the aux, batteries do recharge. I have replaced the Intellitec Battery Disconnect Relay - 01-00055-000.

[Morich]

Still a bit of missing info to get down to the exact drawing as I see no 37F??
Maybe something as simple as a typo or is this one they have missed posting the info?
Not a critical item as a starter but you might take a look at this list of drawings and see if you can make a match for the info?
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

But to try to move things along, I might guess that you have a problem with the converter! I think we will find that built in as part of the load center? Possibly at the foot of the bed? Or another spot if I'm guessing wrong!

My thought is that the inverter often plugs into an outlet and it takes in 110AC from the cord or generator to "make" 12volt DC to run the 12Vcoach things as it also charges the batteries.
If the switch is on and 12volt things like water pump and inside lights work, they may draw from the batteries until dead if the converter is not putting out power.
When the RV engine is running, the power comes from that section to the coach battery and things will then work off that source, even if the coach batteries are down! Mode solenoid and battery disconnect switch and relay are okay!

Possibly try listening to the load center when connected to AC power? Does it hum and possibly the fan run? Kind of a lowball way to troubleshoot as they normally do have a certain amount of hum and a cooling fan is often running if they have been working much.

I think the other parts mentioned will not be a problem this time but finding and taking a look at the converter getting power as well as putting it out may be a question.
This is from drawing for 39F as typical layout on a 50 amp RV! Maybe close?
Click this snip to get better view!


Power in from cord or gen, through transfer switch to main breakers. those feed smaller breaker to load shedder. If other items on load shed work, no need to chase breakers at load center but likely the problem is output of load shedder or the converter??

Look at that and check if it matches and maybe we need to chase it further?


It's an Easter egg hunt and we have to check all the bushes!

[rayhorrocks]

Thank you for such a detailed explanation! I will search for the converter and attempt to replace it when I discover the part number.
Ray

[creativepart]

There could be a BIM (Battery Isolation Manager) that resides between the House and Chassis disconnect solenoids.

I'm editing this post because I looked for info for your RV online.

First there is a 2005 Suncruiser 37B and another 37G, but no 37F. I do know that in later model years there was an Itasca Suncruiser 37F.

Can you reconfirm your model info for us and we'll be happy to check things out for you.

Also, neither of the 2005 Suncruiser 37B or G models come equipped with a BIM to handle chassis battery charging on shore power. In fact, your Operator's manual doesn't mention this as a feature at all on the 2005.

[davismills]

Good inputs from everyone on this thread.

I would suggest a meter testing your batteries WITH shore power on and the disconnect switch on. If your converter is working, you should be reading 13.2 or better. If you're reading in the 12.0-12.7 range, then your converter is not reaching the batteries.

My converter is behind the power panel. If you can get your test leads on your actual converter and test that as well for the same readings, you might find your problem.

A new converter is mostly likely the fix. I just had the same issue with mine and recently replaced with a successful ending.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by rayhorrocks

Thank you for such a detailed explanation! I will search for the converter and attempt to replace it when I discover the part number.
Ray

I do not recommend moving to replace just yet as there are a number of things which may fail before the converter itself!
One is that the drawings shows a receptacle where the converter plugs in? If the cord has worked it's way out of the wall, that is a cheap and easy one to fix!
Maybe there is some other small point that is keeping the converter from getting power?
If a meter is on hand, there are many load centers which have points on the front where we can test for the 110AC getting to it.
Are there fuses or breakers on the converter front? I often think of them as being at the left side with the 12Volt fuses at the right. There are often two connections where you can check for the 110AC.

I do not feel it will be anything involved with the solenoid/ BIM or battery disconnect really as those do seem to be working if you have inside lights when the engine is running.
I'm guessing but feel Creative may have missed it is the coach battery not charging on shore power, rather than the chassis battery not getting charged or coach charging with the engine running. Those come through the solenoid or BIM but not the coach charge from the converter.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Morich

I'm guessing but feel Creative may have missed it is the coach battery not charging on shore power, rather than the chassis battery not getting charged or coach charging with the engine running. Those come through the solenoid or BIM but not the coach charge from the converter.

Yikes, you are correct I completely missed the house/chassis distinction-even though it’s right there in the title.

Please forgive the confusion (mine) and ignore my post about the BIM etc.

Note to self: reading comprehension is a valuable tool!

[Morich]

On the other hand?
To err is human, so now you've proven you are qualified!

I gave up counting runs, hits, and errors a long time ago!