Is it safe to drive RV with generator disabled?

[S.Rodimus]

I'm sorry to keep posting new threads that are basically regarding the same subject. I'm hoping this is the last one on this topic for me.

Long story short, our generator stalls out, and we believe the fix is a new Fuel Pump & Fuel Filter. That's a whole separate story, and I'm not here to try and diagnose the problem. What I do want to find out is if it's safe to drive/use the RV generally with the generator in its current configuration.

That configuration (attached photos show what I describe) is:

• I have almost everything within the generator disassembled....except for one last Torx30 (the one holding the Fuel Pump down) that we just can't budge. We've tried everything, and again, that's not why I'm making this post today. We can't move it, and so basically we just don't have a working generator for the time being. Which is fine. We can live without a generator right now.
• All metal contacts that I disconnected are wrapped in electrical tape.
• The main wiring harness is disconnected.
• The control box is disconnected and completely separated from the generator.
• The 12V house battery system -- which I had disconnected to cut power to the generator while working on it -- is hooked back up, so we can use the rest of the RV and house as normal.
• The generator's fuel line coming from the chassis gas tank to the generator's fuel filter/pump (which I had vice gripped and disconnected before working on the generator) has now been re-attached as though we're in a normal working condition, because obviously traveling with just a vice grip on that fuel line would be dumb.
• We don't have any sort of generator auto-start system. Just a button in the house that has to be actively held down to prime and start it.

I can't imagine there is any way the generator could possibly turn over and try to start up in this state, so my real concern is a gas leak. I am wondering if simply being securely connected to the nonworking Fuel Pump/Filter is enough to hold back any possible flow of gas from the chassis gas tank.

My question is:
Is it safe to drive (as in, all the way across the country and back) and use the RV -- including the house lights, plumbing, etc. as normal -- with the generator like this, or do we need to reassemble the generator before moving?

I guess another way to word it might be:
If we theoretically ever needed to remove the generator completely for service, what would be the best/proper way to secure the gas line coming from the chassis gas tank to the generator, to prevent any leaks/danger?

Thank you!!

[bobsh]

I have a travel trailer, not an RV. Does this generator draw gas from the main RV fuel tank? If it does, I would cap the generator supply tube just to be safe. If it has its own gas tank, you should just empty that.

[bigb]

It will be fine. Keep spraying that rusted Torx every few days with something like Kroil or Free All then try removing it again after your trip. It helps to use a quality Torx bit in a ratchet handle so you can push down hard on it while turning, as opposed to a Torx screwdriver.

If that fails time to get out the Dremel.

[Morich]

With that cable disconnected, there is no way it turns over to try to start as that is where the power comes from the battery.
If it has no gas in the generator now, none will flow when it doesn't turn to crank!


But then for the screw? Considering this is no longer a new RV and in great shape, I tend to go a bit rougher if it makes life easier!
Maybe to the point of using a big old chisel to break the head off the screw to get the filter out?
Yes, that makes it less classy to put back but a big tie wrap or two can hold the filter to something close and that is good enough for me.

[S.Rodimus]

Originally Posted by bobsh

Does this generator draw gas from the main RV fuel tank? If it does, I would cap the generator supply tube just to be safe. If it has its own gas tank, you should just empty that.

Yes, it draws gas from the main RV fuel tank .... but can't we consider the fact that the fuel line is attached as normal to the non-working fuel filter/pump, and clamped on securely as usual, to be the equivalent of capping it off?

[S.Rodimus]

Originally Posted by bigb

It will be fine. Keep spraying that rusted Torx every few days with something like Kroil or Free All then try removing it again after your trip. It helps to use a quality Torx bit in a ratchet handle so you can push down hard on it while turning, as opposed to a Torx screwdriver.

If that fails time to get out the Dremel.

Have been using a ratchet. No luck. And I wish time were the answer. We've been working on it for probably a couple weeks now, spraying different products on, letting them all sit -- to no avail.

I like the Dremel idea, but personally I'm not comfortable doing anything that might cause sparks near the fuel (filter / pump / line). This is also why we haven't tried torching it. I like to say, if something's gonna cause a fire, it's not gonna be me; it's gonna be a pro who will be liable for doing so.

At this point, we've resigned ourselves to the fact that we need a pro -- and we have one lined up to do the thing after our trip.

[Bobn1957]

Originally Posted by bigb

It will be fine. Keep spraying that rusted Torx every few days with something like Kroil or Free All then try removing it again after your trip. It helps to use a quality Torx bit in a ratchet handle so you can push down hard on it while turning, as opposed to a Torx screwdriver.

If that fails time to get out the Dremel.

I would suggest using an impact driver to loosen the screw along with penetrating oil, heat also helps free rusted fasteners!

[Geoopal]

I had the same issue last winter. Replaced fuel filter, electric pump, changed oil. Engine still would not start. Then discovered that there is a selonoid at the bottom of the carburetor that shuts off the fuel to the carb. Trace the wires back, there are spade terminals on the white wire that may be broken or disconnected. Generator fired up when this was reconnected.
Wishing you luck

Geo

[Morich]

Back when cars were easy enough for the user to repair, there were lots of small methods to sort out trouble and they are now forgotten/missed by many.

When looking for why an engine doesn't start, keep in mind the items it takes to start and sort the question after deciding which is missing!
You have to have fuel, air, spark, and it has to crank! Crank and air are pretty easy but then we have to work a bit to find if it has fuel and spark!

If we take a plug out and hold it against metal like the engine, while cranking, we can see if we are getting spark. If we put a finger over the spark plug hole and it gets fuel on it, we can say it is getting fuel!

All these do need some thought on how to do them without hurting ourself but it can really help to avoid extra time and expense if we start with sorting it down to what is missing!

[bigb]

Originally Posted by Bobn1957

I would suggest using an impact driver to loosen the screw along with penetrating oil, heat also helps free rusted fasteners!

I just found out about this tool today over on the welding forum. It lets you hammer on the fastener while turning back and forth with a wrench. One reviewer says it works best on Torx and Phillips type fasteners as you lose the impact on ordinary sockets. I'm tempted to order a set.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXSPW6VN...t_details&th=1